My first Stationary engine

How many coats do you do matt, I was thinking 3 top coats.

I usually just do 2 top coats, but it really depends on a few different factors, like how well the paint covers & if any mistakes are made.

Usually if you try to touch up after a paint has dried it doesn't look so good (it never blends in like one full coat) so often if there is a mistake in the final coat I just do another one. But I try not to put too much paint on, as that doesn't look good either.

Have a go, do your 2 top coats, see what you think, you can always go for a 3rd or even 4th coat if you're not happy with it. I you think the amount of paint going on is excessive then you just cut in a little harder with your abrasive paper before applying another one (if the odd bit of metal shows through during this cutting that should be fine, just make sure it's well covered).

I only use wet & dry paper, never usually bother with sand paper for cutting in between coats. I don't think I've even got proper emery cloth in the workshop, just use wet & dry & have some rolls of the decorators green aluminium oxide paper for rough stuff. I keep a pad of P500 wet & dry paper sheets, & a roll each of P80 & P120 paper backed green stuff (aluminium oxide paper), although I won't be buying the paper backed green stuff again as it's more for painters & decorators. I will buy the dark red cloth backed stuff from Wickes (on the same shelf as the green & the low budget yellow ones), it's much the same kind of thing as the green but longer lasting & more flexible. Never buy the yellow one, it doesn't last 5 minutes & never bother with Lidl sand paper, it's useless. I found Wickes was cheaper than my local paint shop for abrasive paper, but they don't stock wet & dry, you need somewhere like a motor spares shop or bodywork wholesaler type place.

I like the abrasive sponge pads as well, but they don't last long either.

nutgone wrote:I usually just do 2 top coats, but it really depends on a few different factors, like how well the paint covers & if any mistakes are made.

Usually if you try to touch up after a paint has dried it doesn't look so good (it never blends in like one full coat) so often if there is a mistake in the final coat I just do another one. But I try not to put too much paint on, as that doesn't look good either.

Have a go, do your 2 top coats, see what you think, you can always go for a 3rd or even 4th coat if you're not happy with it. I you think the amount of paint going on is excessive then you just cut in a little harder with your abrasive paper before applying another one (if the odd bit of metal shows through during this cutting that should be fine, just make sure it's well covered).

I only use wet & dry paper, never usually bother with sand paper for cutting in between coats. I don't think I've even got proper emery cloth in the workshop, just use wet & dry & have some rolls of the decorators green aluminium oxide paper for rough stuff. I keep a pad of P500 wet & dry paper sheets, & a roll each of P80 & P120 paper backed green stuff (aluminium oxide paper), although I won't be buying the paper backed green stuff again as it's more for painters & decorators. I will buy the dark red cloth backed stuff from Wickes (on the same shelf as the green & the low budget yellow ones), it's much the same kind of thing as the green but longer lasting & more flexible. Never buy the yellow one, it doesn't last 5 minutes & never bother with Lidl sand paper, it's useless. I found Wickes was cheaper than my local paint shop for abrasive paper, but they don't stock wet & dry, you need somewhere like a motor spares shop or bodywork wholesaler type place.

I like the abrasive sponge pads as well, but they don't last long either.

I have a whole box of abrasive pads so they do! Also have some very fine sand paper emery stuff (don't really know what it is).

The Mid Brunswick green that I have is very thin so I think I will do 3 coats.

If it's black like emery but paper backed (well, a kind of paper) then it's wet & dry. Most people call it emery anyway, but it isn't, emery is cloth backed & loses it's grit all over your work (which is why I don't use it).

The pads are great, I use them a lot. I just find I get through them a bit quick (mind you, they're only about a quid each, if that lasts one engine it's not much to pay). They also lose their grit when they're new. I prefer the pads to the sponge blocks though (the blocks are thicker & harder sponge), but they're all useful. The thing about the pads is they are so flexible, which makes them really good for curves. I've got some really good results with them & will always keep some in. I used some tonight in fact.

I've just come in from doing some painting, giving the Lister A flywheels a 2nd coat of primer. I'm trying to crack on with that engine & get it back together.

Good idea, need to get a few minor jobs to a pump to do before I get cracking with the D again

Well it seems I'm doing motorbikes as well now. I've spend most o today helping my dad with an old Triumph 3T, it's one he's doing for someone else & needs to get finished. So I spent this evening doing engine stuff.

Lewis sometimes it's easier to cut a paint run off with a razor blade, get it as flat as you can before sanding, save a lot of work.

Stu.

That's a good idea I'll try it next time I get a run!!!

I POLISHED THE BRASS TAG FOR HIM AND HE HAS DONE A GREAT JOB

thats before you polished it. He was over at mine and we were working on it

Decided to take the valves out to day while I was waiting for paint to dry. They came out with no trouble at all:thumbup: I think there is now wear in the valve guides. Have I done anything wrong, I didn't mix them up and I put them in labelled jars?


cylinder head by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


valves by LewizMacRae, on Flickr

All sounds good to me Lewis. usually they're pretty easy to tell apart, but it's a good idea to label them if you can. Sometimes you clean them up & they both look exactly the same.

Cheers

Can you just go straight to first top coat after 2nd primer dried or do you leave the primer to harden?

I prefer to let the primer harden off for a few days, especially with the Teamac primer I use. I find if I sand it off as soon as it dries it's still too soft. If you leave it for at least 2 days, preferably 3 or 4, it will go really hard & when you give it a final sand down with the really fine stuff you'll find it almost polishes it.

You should never over-coat any paint within 24 hours anyway as it won't have had time to go off properly. You'll find the next coat will re-activate the coat underneath & cause problems. I prefer to leave it to go off at least a couple of days.

Also, if you've got 2 good coats of primer on there you can go in first with a slightly rougher sand paper (or whatever abrasive you're using) first, not pressing too hard, to flatten it down, then go over with the fine stuff to get rid of the scratch marks left by the rougher stuff. It takes a gentle touch with the rougher stuff but it's worth mastering as it will speed things up a bit. Using this method also means you can slap the primer on as thick as you like to cover up any small imperfections. As long as it's had a few days to go off nice & hard you'll find the rougher paper (around P120) or sponge pad, will get rid of any runs pretty quick & you'll spend less time with the finer stuff.


Paint also needs to go off properly between coats as once it's covered it won't be able to breathe as well.

I think it's important to take your time & not use massive brushes. I only ever use 1/2 inch & the smaller 1 inch brushes. It may take longer but the detail is much better & you can be more accurate cutting in on the edges & doing the fiddly bits.

I must get some more pictures of the Lister bits. I've been painting it over the last few days & it's coming on a treat.

Did you get the valves done matt?

Not yet Lewis, I just got in & had my dinner. Going to get changed & go out to the workshop in a bit.

Just thought I would show you the progress that I have made over the weekend. I got the other side flywheel done in  first coat of primer (I'll do the second coat tonight then leave it to harden until Thursday or Friday) I got a few parts in first top coat as well, starting handle and guvener parts.     



other side of flywheel in first coat primer by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Lister D Starting handle by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Lister D Starting handle by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


first top coat by LewizMacRae, on Flickr

Did a little more today some of it I did last week. Got some more parts painted, cylinder head, oil filler, guvenor housing and one side of the flywheel. also started prepping the block for priming and took the main bearing out today.

(sorry no photos as flickr want let me put photos up tonight:pale:)

hi all, have done a little more since I last posted, primed the block, take the piston out and grind in the valves.


primer by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Lister D block by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Piston by LewizMacRae, on Flickr
valve by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


valve by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Grinding Paste by LewizMacRae, on Flickr

Sorry about the lack of progress, just completely forgot!

Have got lots done since last post, all the bits in the picture's are 2nd coated except the starting handle oil filler, tank, straps and guvner plate. also got the cast iron wheels in 2 coats of red oxide.

not long now

heres some pics


Cast iron wheels in primer by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Lister D 2nd coat by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Lister D 2nd coat by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Lister D 2nd coat by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Lister D 2nd coat by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Lister D 2nd coat by LewizMacRae, on Flickr


Lister D 2nd coat by LewizMacRae, on Flickr



Lister D 2nd coat by LewizMacRae, on Flickr

looking good mate ,

hopefully i will get some green on the fairbanks soon .

matt

cheers matt, ye your Fairbanks will look really good painted green!

Lewis MacRae wrote:cheers matt, ye your Fairbanks will look really good painted green!

i have got some paint but does not look exactlly the correct shade .... might just say sod it its green after all ... lol

as long as it looks great and your happy with it!