villiers D415 DIESEL number 2

What car/engine is it Kev? If it's the 1.9td pug/citroen lump then glow plugs shouldn't be that expensive or difficult to change, I've done mine loads of times. Also, the cam belt is a little more tricky but again, still doable by yourself.

well ive been and priced it up for the parts for mr to do it and £50 will do until i get an engine sold out the shed then the money will go on mot and the rest of cars engine service
cant hold back on the diesel as i comited to it the other day as he will bring it up and save me 35.00 on diesel for the car
makes the engine cheaper to
kev

Ianhw77k wrote:What car/engine is it Kev? If it's the 1.9td pug/citroen lump then glow plugs shouldn't be that expensive or difficult to change, I've done mine loads of times. Also, the cam belt is a little more tricky but again, still doable by yourself.

cam belts with the dowl kits needed ,
i usually do it with drillbits and bolts pushed in the hole tight
kev

kevjhnsn wrote:

Ianhw77k wrote:What car/engine is it Kev? If it's the 1.9td pug/citroen lump then glow plugs shouldn't be that expensive or difficult to change, I've done mine loads of times. Also, the cam belt is a little more tricky but again, still doable by yourself.

cam belts with the dowl kits needed ,
i usually do it with drillbits and bolts pushed in the hole tight
kev

My dad helped me with mine, he had some old bolts he adapted especially for that job when he used to be a mechanic full time. I do love that old TD lump, I think they never really improved on it.

If you're not doing it already, then stick a bit of 2stroke oil in with your diesel at about 100:1, it improves your fuel economy no end and seems to smooth out the engine and make it burn a lot cleaner

i would if it will start NO GLOW no go and im not sticking easy start in her
as its like heroine to drugys
tuesday is the fastest i can get the parts
kev

well heres todays progress
BEFORE this is the sump as left from the first round of cleaning

AFTER and this is it ready for reasembly

DURING look at all the black crap in the fresh paraffin, filter and use again then use some new paraffin for the last wash

now its ready for the last wash with new parafin

and next the gears and govenoirs compartment, took me a hour to strip it down for the cleaning

then forgot to take a picture
heres it almost back together

the fuel lift pump looks like it was made like it in the factory , works off the oil pump ecentric plunger ram

heres the internal fuel pump with a stumpy little cam lope not seen one like this before

so the fuel filter is washed out in parafin and can see through it just about in places dryed out ish and all reasembled ,high pressure pump and new oring seals fitted and cam piston back in block
oil filter is soaking but looks and smells newish
run stop throttle lever is now moving again
NEXT TO DO IS FLUSH OUT THE OIL SYSTEM BEFORE I GO TO FAR "forgot to do it like a dick "
ready for the top end to go back on later today and the oil pick up pipe and gauze to go back on now looks like new also unlike in earlyier posts
kev

That must have took a few hours and a fair bit of paraffin to get that clean. I just use an engine degreaser on the outside as it's a bit cheaper then paraffin you must have a good deal on it the amounts you buy.

Stu.

not really stu
i just filter it thought magnets ,funnel gauze then put toilet paper in onto top of the gauze and keep running it though then new paper ect
then when its stood for a day ,do it all again then the really fine stuff sticks in the bottom of the container and filter it all again,
then this gets used for different levels of the washes ,and then only used for external cleaning before its finished with
ive used 2 ltrs to this engine with so far new is used for the final washing or items that have to be very clean then when filtered its clean for a second use as the fine carbon and particals are in the second time used parrafin and not the new
as for buying the parrafin
when i bought the jap 55 it have 3-4 gallons in the tank when i bought it and to old to used in an engine
recycle recycle ive only payed for 2 gallons of parrafin all season in the villiers 25PP,AMANCO PK / PP
KEV

well i was getting on well
bore bolted on ,piston in and bolted to crank
head on rockers and piping all on

got the grank handle on and stated to turn it over make sure valve timing was ok and valves opening ect
when it stopped dead with a solid sound
thought somthing had got in the cooling fins but nothing turned the engine around on the bench
conrod hitting the camshaft
so it looks like its all coming apart again to split the piston from the conrod,
the swirl indents in crown are in the right place ,under the inlet and injector , just the conrod bearing cap hitting the cam so if on the other way should miss but then the swirl in piston will be on the exhurst side
not my work the only bit i didnt assemble
no workshop manual to do it with or pictured diagrams to copy apart from parts lists
so back out now and start stripping it down again
kev

I cant understand why the con rod should hit the camshaft Kev, it didn't when I had it, are you sure that the valves aren't hitting the piston? Did you get a bigend bearing sorted out then?

Pete.

I'm sure it's probably just something simple.

He wouldn't put the piston in the wrong way, would he???

Surely no one here is silly enough to do that, are they????

no pete
the swirls in the piston crown were on the wrong side so would do nothing for the injected fuel and inlet are rushing together
and i fitted the piston so there on the correct side again
but the conecting rod bolt head was hitting the cam
well ive now striped it down knocked the conrod and piston appart turn one around and hammered it all back together
just got the piston and rings half back in the bore then got a mother of a migrain so bad it was almost making me sick
had a nap and painkillers so back to just a head ache so off to shed i go shortly
and yes lads i have pics to prove its not my work
kev

Foden wrote:I cant understand why the con rod should hit the camshaft Kev, it didn't when I had it, are you sure that the valves aren't hitting the piston? Did you get a bigend bearing sorted out then?

Pete.

ive been studying my downloaded 270 operating manual
and it says in there leaded bronze bearing shells big end and phosh/bronze bush small end
so the white metal must be wear and tear from the thrust washers
so im going to risk it for a biscuit and see
i have a 3rd villiers diesel on is way to me soon as he comes up to see "the same as you mate"
just needs a rocker box and cover "so will wait and see what the outcome is on this and try make a great one out of three and a 2nd good one atleast
then sell on one or the other so i eather have spares or running spares
kev

nutgone wrote:I'm sure it's probably just something simple.

He wouldn't put the piston in the wrong way, would he???

Surely no one here is silly enough to do that, are they????

when me and pete bought the engine there was no head on the engine
but when i took the piston out to fit rings and deglaze bore
put the piston back in so the crown swirls lined up with the injectors spray path
and then this is what happened later
here the pics to prove the problem

nuts on conrod cap hitting camshaft

and piston is miles away from top dead when it stops moving well hrs later last night i got it all back as it was earlyer in the day
but it now rotates all the way around and round without the bang

heres the gougeon pin and piston rotated 180 and conrod ready to go back same way round at this point

heres the piston and conrod after all this crown faces same way,and the conrod faces the other

and now goes to top dead center . and it has a shadow gap on camshaft now too whoop whoop

and now off to bed calm and cool just 4hr behind
kev

well lads
its all back into one big lump almost, well at least its starting to resemble an engine again
but i want oil pumping and diesel squirting
and then i want all four over and over induction,compression,fire exhurst "well smoke out" theres no exhurst yet
just the airshroud and a few backets and screws now to complete



oil filter has been washed and washed and washed to my times to remember
final washes were with petrol to get all the parrafin and what ever else will wash out and left to dry sat on a babys sock to suck it out the bottom and dry it better and faster

i had 3ltr oil of oil in my shed to fill the sump with as it says 2.84ltrs in for first oiling dry new engine
measured it out so i new were to fill it up to when in us as there no dip sticks in them
put in 2ltrs and 900mls in and shon a light in to see were it was,

and bugger me not even half way up the oil pick up gauze
so got the manual out again spot the printing errors
sales leflet says :-
D270 3 1/4 pints/1.84ltrs lubricating oil DIESEL TANK CAPACITY 1 GALLON
D415 5 pints / 2.84 ltrs SUMP AND FUEL TANK ALL IN ONE 1 1/2 GALLON
the d415 sump/tank is BIGGER IN DEPTH BUY 3" TO THE D270 TANK /SUMP

OPERATORS MANUAL SAYS
D270 5 PINTS /2.84 LTRS DIESEL 1 GALLON
D415 5 PINTS /2.84 LTRS DIESEL 1 1/2 GALLONS

well ive but the 2.84 ltrs in and about 1 1/2" below the oil gauze top so it would be 1 1/2" over if it was the smaller D270 tank base
so ive added another 500mls oil all i had left and still needs atleast another 1 -1 1/2 ltrs to be safe when the filter and pipes are filled up
so if i add 1 3/4 pints or 1 ltr more oil it would mean that both books are wrong in one way or another
i would think it should say
d270 5 pints
d415 6 3/4-7 pints 3.55 ltrs- 4 ltrs or fill it to the top like standard petrols for the new oil and filter changes the keep topped to over ledge of upper block base /top off sump trough
ive put a gallon of white diesel in but only 1/4 filled the sump tank

note to self "KEV YOU`VE NOT PUT OIL IN AIR FILTER YET DONT FORGET " AIRFILTER OIL NUMPTY" thanks kev

Did you sort the missing flywheel key Kev? It is looking more like an engine now!

Pete.

They're not what I would call a "Pretty Engine" are they. A bit, erm.... (don't like to say "ugly" when talking about other people's engines ) a bit of an acquired taste perhaps.

Anyway, great work again Kev.

BTW has anyone ever told you, either you stay up way too late or you get up WAAAY too early. I often look at the times on your posts & wonder if there's something I've misread.

nutgone wrote:
BTW has anyone ever told you, either you stay up way too late or you get up WAAAY too early. I often look at the times on your posts & wonder if there's something I've misread.

That's something I've wondered about, at first I put it down to baby feeds etc but it's been like that for years. Also what time do you finish working in the shed/out doors as some of your pics look to be very late at night.

Stu.

I usually try to come in around 10:30pm at the latest, as I'm usually in bed by 11:00-11:30pm. But I'm not an early riser, dunno if it's got something to do with my medical problems but I can sleep for England, apparently I will get even more tired once I start on treatment, don't think I'll be awake much if that happens!

I've always been a night owl, never been very good at getting up in the mornings. If I were living on my own I would probably be in the workshop til past midnight.

im out at all hours since i was made redundant and 2 babys aged 1 and 2 yrs and an ill wife
so between poo patrol and juice and milk and my wife passing out randomly or megga sweats from the meds
still cant find a job,or atleast close the deal in the interviews ,when i get one "not very common any more to find ,so i have to do more to help the wife out also bless her
so i get about 6-7hrs sleep nowerdays ,as i was up at 7am for work ,streight to lifting heavy glass panels ect then drive to delivery or jobs from anglesey ,newark ,london summerset and of cause twice a week to sunderland 5 miles up from that blue bridge thingy me bob
so not having anythink to wear me out like ive been used to i just cant get to sleep like i used too
kev
P.S its bloody cold to work on the villiers today -1oC all afternoon and now the air is like a pee soup "freezing fog" so my autheritous is to say the least stiff and painfull
kev

Foden wrote:Did you sort the missing flywheel key Kev? It is looking more like an engine now!

Pete.

pete
made a key now for it ,not the best, bit to loose for my liking to be honest mate, taped home with little effort
but have a 3rd diesel coming to me so will rob it off one or the other mate
kev

well its started to lift the oil from sump, cant get the fuel from the low pressure to the high
so im draining the diesel out again and remove the internal fuel bowl and filter ,to see if the gaskets are all on the right way round
as one may of spun round in the sandwich of 3 gaskets and the 2 filter parts
so see in a bit if this is the problem " im hoping so as lift pump is working well with loads of pressure
kev

How's the big end? Any play you can establish??? I'm guessing not, as you've put it all together now.

Do you think we could have a running Villiers Diesel sometime soon???

Only make sure it's not 4:00am when you fire it up, eh? Got to think of the neighbours.

nutgone wrote:How's the big end? Any play you can establish??? I'm guessing not, as you've put it all together now.

Do you think we could have a running Villiers Diesel sometime soon???

Only make sure it's not 4:00am when you fire it up, eh? Got to think of the neighbours.

matt
been watching the 5th twi-light with wife as shes one of the twi-hards as there called 2 1/2hr film
will keep doing bits on it as and when i can now its been not over -1oC here for 4 days now and engine is to big for my heated 4 wall shed so now residing in a passage way so cold spanner numbed fingers are the problem now anyone would think it was december
kev

Kev I haven't even been out let alone pick up a spanner

Stu.