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VILLIERS WX11 LZH 2 stroke restoration number 2 for 2012

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Post by kevjhnsn Thu Mar 08 2012, 02:27

hi there as you have seen ive just almost finished my wx11 lzha high speed 2 1/2 hp villiers
back up and running like it should be
just a bit of paint needed on tank to finish it.

NOW STARTED ON THE earlyer wx11 lzh with a far lower engine number and a brass points box with the engine number and the date 2-21
it is like no other villers points set up i have in my intire collection its a brass round box instead of alloy , points arm is slightly thinner
and the condenser is layers of a cast iron looking consruction and the points gap is adjusted by screwing the contact in or out like a stud with a very small spanner i have cleaned it all up and using the old coil of the high speed engine so it should work for more than 3-4 hrs on this one in theory as this one will be running at nearly half the rpm to the other, so the coil will be working under less strain and be cooler for longer before the gap is to big in the coil for the spark to jump it for now until i find a doner coil for her
but this one will do for getting it to run for now
so i have got to solder on the L/T and the H/T leads when i get time and go from there
kev

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Post by Guest Thu Mar 08 2012, 09:47

Sounds interesting set up Kev, keep us posted on your progress.

Stu.

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Post by kevjhnsn Sun Mar 11 2012, 03:31

well ive set it up like the other wx11 and still no spark from the dammed points lol lol
wounder if this is why you dont see any with the brass set up fitted as they were problematic
coil has good L/T and H/T ohmms output and same to the plugcap and the earth side confused confused confused
wounder if its the condenser will have to try looping a new one in and see
otherwise its a total strip down of electrics to replace the blooby coil
but on the good side the compression is a lot stronger on this one to the other wx11 will find out when i get it to fire up Embarassed Embarassed
kev

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Post by Guest Sun Mar 11 2012, 10:49

Kev it's never something simple, hope you find the fault soon.

Stu.


Last edited by stationary stu on Mon Mar 12 2012, 11:41; edited 1 time in total

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Post by kevjhnsn Sun Mar 11 2012, 12:26

me to stu me to

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Post by kevjhnsn Mon Mar 12 2012, 22:40

tested stripped and rebuilt flywheel mag and fitted a new 5mm copper core champion HT lead while it was down again.
replaced the condensor and reasembled all the electrics again and spun the flywheel over and CRAKING SPARK whoop whoop
squrted a bit of petrol down plughole and pulled pop pop pop pop pop
so all in all sofar so good
just stuck the tank of the other onto it and piped to carb
so will video next time i have a min or 200 and swing till we have a fart or a fire up FINGERS CROSSED
kev

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Post by Guest Tue Mar 13 2012, 11:52

Great news Kev, looking forward to the video.

Stu.

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Post by kevjhnsn Wed Mar 14 2012, 01:27

had it running from beleave it or not the first pull and only stoped when fuel ran out
needs a new water hose as it is splitting and is now split when removing for getting the crud out of the water jacket
had it running for 3 hours on 1/2 pint of fuel/oil mix ,economic to the other on were 1 gallon for 3 1/2 hrs
will i thought i did a video of the first water and fuel in tank and starting but the new camera was set for 30 secs max video length
so was pizzed of when played it back and found i had stopped agees before i pulled the rope
will post as soon as figger out how to do it with this camera not as easy as the others ive had in the past
kev

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Post by kevjhnsn Wed Mar 14 2012, 04:04

this is a video if the first wx11 i bought last backend
this is a WX11 LZHA high speed model 2 1/2 bhp with a alloy piston


this is the second one in my collection of the wx11 type this one is LZH cast iron piston from a aerograph set
engine at about 4-5 mins after the first firing up since 1960s
smoking out the street lol lol lol
due to extra oil in the petrol and oiled up the bores and other internals weeks back for a pro fire soaking better to over lube than burn a bush bearing out when been stood for so long



second video is around 2 hrs later and with more componants refitted and the guvernoir and fuel mixture and carb setting tickled up a bit better


hope you like the results of my labour
thanks kev

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Post by Guest Wed Mar 14 2012, 10:27

Sounds very well Kev, well done mate on a great job of getting it back up and running.

Stu.

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Post by kevjhnsn Wed Mar 14 2012, 21:12

thanks stu
it runs sweet as a nut and i only bought it for parts LOL LOL LOL
it was a cheapy of the ebay and listed as spare parts only lol
and with little money spent on bolth engines i have not one but to running wx11s
kev

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Post by YorkshireChugger Wed Mar 14 2012, 23:02

Brilliant! I always had a soft spot for these little water cooled Villers jobbies, when I had a couple of air cooled ones I always fancied one to be different! [and probably to stop some of the entry ticket engine stares Wink ]

Amusingly amongst the paperwork I saved and never sold - hoarding I guess - I have some 1922 villiers parts lists for engines and a brochure Smile I am guessing from that early age they must be pretty rare now. My 1922 season catalogue only contains sales info for their range of engines that are air cooled though. I am guessing many of the internals and all the electrics are the same though.

The two spare parts lists are air cooled as well. One only details the Mk1, 2 and 3 engines and the other goes from the Mk5 up to the Mk14.
Smile
Regards
Matt

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Post by kevjhnsn Wed Mar 14 2012, 23:51

yes the water cooled engines came on a different sales brosure leflet
i have a mk1 engine midget blindhead/headless and the flywheel cover, points, sparkplug, and few other parts are the same as the wx11s
if you thinking of letting them go to a good home let me know please as i like to have bumff with the engines i own
thanks kev
thanks kev

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Post by YorkshireChugger Thu Mar 15 2012, 01:10

OK Kev, I will give it some thought, I love the old literature but it might make some sense if it ends up with the right engine[s]. It cost me a bit though Wink The very least I can do is try and copy it for you at some point Smile

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Post by kevjhnsn Thu Mar 15 2012, 20:18

that would be nice if you would do that for me
as i like to read the old info that you used to get back then
kev

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Post by mike d Fri Mar 16 2012, 01:19

its hard to find the old literature nowadays,and if it about its normally a reprint with bits of the words missing..
or its to expensive .....good luck with that fellers..
mike....

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Post by YorkshireChugger Fri Mar 16 2012, 05:46

kevjhnsn wrote:that would be nice if you would do that for me
as i like to read the old info that you used to get back then
kev

Kev - once I have a new charger for the camera battery I will sort this.

Mike - agreed! It is often hard to find, and also expensive. Lots of people say its only a piece of paper, which is true and why so much was chucked out. After all if a company was sending out catalogues every year why keep the old ones? I wish it was a little more common, then we'd all be better off.

I do think sometimes people who have lovely original literature are 'afraid' to copy it, maybe unsure of copyright issues but for research and review purposes this is not generally a problem under fair use clauses. A lot of documents can be put onto 1 CD rom. It does take a lot of time scanning these things. For reading purposes I find it just as easy to use a digicam with macro. Scanning only really needed if you want to be able to then print reproductions.

Regards
Matt

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Post by kevjhnsn Thu May 31 2012, 03:28

i discovered at the weekend
why the brass points and brass every thing else in there was changed to tin,alloy, nylon and bakerlight
as when the engine warm up the backplate the the brass sucks up the heat and closes the points gap to zero
thats why i starts first pull in the morning and 2 hrs later dead and 1hr later starts 3-4 pull and runs for 15-20 mins and dead all over again
winter testing didnt show this problem as the chill factor must of kept it cool enough to keep going
also answered the poping and farting to.
ive now started to strip the scruffy paint job off along with the gasket cement that made the head look like it was welded back together
after frost damage Very Happy Very Happy "spares or repairs due to cracked block " flea bay bargain Very Happy Very Happy
and ive now found more original paint on hopper and looks to be carky green and blue cammo effect confused confused
was this ever done back then ????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????[url=https://servimg.com/image_preview.php?
i=214&u=16392953]VILLIERS WX11 LZH  2 stroke  restoration number 2 for 2012 100_6220[/url]

VILLIERS WX11 LZH  2 stroke  restoration number 2 for 2012 100_6221
kev

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Post by kevjhnsn Thu Jun 07 2012, 04:29

well thee wx11 is in a load of peices now and the cast base is stripped back to casting
and i light a fire in it as in info i got about decokeing the exhurst system
as the casting is oily as hell under the paint so baking it out for the new coat has somthing to stick too, in theory atleast
i started the exhurst fire at 8pm and its still going at 4.30 am
how long will it go for ???
for its age its coming apart like it was a new built engine not a great granny of 91 yrs old
will post picks as and when
kev

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Post by Guest Thu Jun 07 2012, 13:22

Kev do you not use etching primer when painting aluminium, you can buy it at most car accessory shops and works great but you do need to wear a mask when using it.

This is the stuff

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOTEK-PROFESSIONAL-GREY-ACID-ETCH-PRIMER-ALUMINIUM-GALVANISED-METAL-PRIMER-/330727153091?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item4d00dfddc3

Stu.

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Post by kevjhnsn Sat Jun 09 2012, 00:23

stu
yes i always use a etching primmer for alloy componants
otherwise waisted your time with all the prep cleaning and paint a yr or so later
aways use a base "primmercoat" to on all items that i restore
and if needed a rust treatment for the tinwork cowlings ect as thinnest metals will go first and in no time compaired to the rest of the engine

pics of the last few days work on the wx11 are to follow as soon as, just topped my donggle up as run out and not got to the shop for the top up for a few days
kev

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Post by kevjhnsn Sat Jun 09 2012, 00:59

VILLIERS WX11 LZH  2 stroke  restoration number 2 for 2012 100_6222
sanded back to bare casting looks well for 90 yrs old
VILLIERS WX11 LZH  2 stroke  restoration number 2 for 2012 100_6223
exhurst sanded back to rough casing before i use my nylon type FACE OFF wheel in drill
VILLIERS WX11 LZH  2 stroke  restoration number 2 for 2012 100_6224
primmers going on this is coat 2 of primmer 2 and coat 4 in total so far
VILLIERS WX11 LZH  2 stroke  restoration number 2 for 2012 100_6225
2nd coat of topcoat going off
VILLIERS WX11 LZH  2 stroke  restoration number 2 for 2012 100_6310
exhurst flange before cleaning
VILLIERS WX11 LZH  2 stroke  restoration number 2 for 2012 100_6311
after a wire wooling seson and the amount of chrome left good is unreal to see from before to after

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Post by kevjhnsn Sat Jun 09 2012, 01:37

VILLIERS WX11 LZH  2 stroke  restoration number 2 for 2012 100_6313
all painted and drying for 20hrs now hard enough to work around now
VILLIERS WX11 LZH  2 stroke  restoration number 2 for 2012 100_6314
sanded back as flat as poss without over killing the aged look
VILLIERS WX11 LZH  2 stroke  restoration number 2 for 2012 100_6315
h/t painted and awaiting the oven tomorrow pppppppssssssttttt and ssssssshhhhhhh or she will kill me Smile
while wife goes for the big shopping trip
kev

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Post by billypurves Sat Jun 09 2012, 08:13

Hi Kev, Do not solder HT lead to you coil button as it will ruin the coil in a short period of time....not instantly but progressively. Word of warning...knowledge gained by experience!!!!! Billy.
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Post by astrocreep2000 Sat Jun 09 2012, 23:19

billypurves wrote:Hi Kev, Do not solder HT lead to you coil button as it will ruin the coil in a short period of time....not instantly but progressively. Word of warning...knowledge gained by experience!!!!! Billy.
Also approach with caution when someone says that they have replaced one....knowledge gained by experience and a heavily dented wallet !!!!!

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