A Wolseley at last!!!!

hmmm, CAV filter housing and a drill pump? may be a lot quicker...

glad some of my ramblings are of use, yes the wd40 makes a massive difference on aly work, its thin enough combined with the heat to get right in there

blackvanman wrote:hmmm, CAV filter housing and a drill pump? may be a lot quicker...

Now that's a bloody good idea. Haven't got the cash to put it together right now, but might have some bits & bobs lying about to make something up along the same lines....

blackvanman wrote:glad some of my ramblings are of use, yes the wd40 makes a massive difference on aly work, its thin enough combined with the heat to get right in there

Talking of which, I must get some WD40, I was using it to get the worst of the muck off my hands before washing them, it works a treat at that, after I moved over to GT85 I thought that was all it was good for!

nutgone wrote:

blackvanman wrote:hmmm, CAV filter housing and a drill pump? may be a lot quicker...

Now that's a bloody good idea. Haven't got the cash to put it together right now, but might have some bits & bobs lying about to make something up along the same lines....

blackvanman wrote:glad some of my ramblings are of use, yes the wd40 makes a massive difference on aly work, its thin enough combined with the heat to get right in there

Talking of which, I must get some WD40, I was using it to get the worst of the muck off my hands before washing them, it works a treat at that, after I moved over to GT85 I thought that was all it was good for!

Don't want to start the wd40 v gt85 debate, both have their uses and places, by the way, wd40 is also very good on tea stained worktops

No, you're absolutely right, they both have their uses. People think I'm dead against instant gasket compounds as well, but I'm not, they have their uses, all this stuff has its' place in the workshop.

Except Swarfega, that's rubbish.

Oh hang on, Swarfega may be rubbish as a hand cleaner, but it's really good at lubricating rubber seals & stuff. They pop in a treat with a smear of Swarfega.

OK, Swarfega is in as well.

the swafega orange gritty gunk is ok lol
although this is really good stuff:
here

sod swafega get some DEB lol

what about plusgas then or even 3 in 1 oil ???

Never rated Plus-Gas, yank rubbish! (mind you, that was a long time ago, it might have changed, well it should have, or they should be out of business by now!)
Like the 3-in-1 though, they were giving out free samples at Goodwood Revival this year, the new aerosol one with added PTFE.
For general purpose I'll take whatever's cheapest, but for the really tough nuts & bolts etc I'll always use GT85, I haven't found anything to beat it yet. But it's not the only easing spray in my workshop by any means.

As for hand cleaner, I thought you couldn't beat the Lidl wood-pulp stuff, but they told me they've stopped doing it! So I researched it & found that Ford garages use a similar wood-based hand cleaner & some were even saying it was better than the Lidl one, so I went on eBay, searched for "Ford hand cleaner" & bought some....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Motorcraft-Industrial-Wash-Hand-Cleaner-10-Litre-ltr-Tub-Heavy-Duty-/221121000873?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item337bd6b5a9

That might seem expensive, but it's a huge bucket, gotta be getting on for a years supply! Maybe even more (& I use it about 3 times a day). The good thing about it is you wet your hands first, so if you missed any bits you just give it another go, other hand cleaners usually end up straight down the sink when put on wet hands.

My dad was a self employed car mechanic all through the 80s & most of the 90s. Back in the 80s Swarfega was about all you could get, but he's been through them all, I remember in the 90s the stuff to use was Comma's gritty, lemony, yellow Manista, but he really wishes this wood based stuff was around then, it's hands down the best you can get (pardon the pun).

If you don't fancy spending the best part of £25 on hand cleaner, then why not go halves with someone? We just decant some into a smaller Tupperware container & use it from there.

& yes, I reckon it is very slightly better than the Lidl one, which was the previous best. (Can you believe they actually wrote to me to tell me it had been temporarily discontinued after I emailed them to ask when it was coming in?!!)

But I'm afraid I'll never be satisfied with any hand cleaner, I'm waiting for the stuff which just takes a quick once-over, like washing your hands after going to the loo. They all take far too much work as far as I'm concerned.

This thread has ran off topic, sorry Andy but just a few of my thoughts ... To get soaked in oil from your hands after being in a sump try multi purpose grease yes grease, just rub a dab into your hands rub well in then wipe off with a cloth then my next bit is use cheap washing up liquid and half a handfull of soap powder, rub well in then wash off with water. No expensive hand wash here. To get every last bit of engranded dirt off your hands use a pumice stone or similar. All these are my tried and tested ways to clean hands.
Tight nuts, bolts etc heat them up and cool with WD40 as in contracts the WD40 gets into the rusted places and it helps to loosen them rusty nuts n bolts.

Stu.

stationary stu wrote:This thread has ran off topic, sorry Andy but just a few of my thoughts ... To get soaked in oil from your hands after being in a sump try multi purpose grease yes grease, just rub a dab into your hands rub well in then wipe off with a cloth then my next bit is use cheap washing up liquid and half a handfull of soap powder, rub well in then wash off with water. No expensive hand wash here. To get every last bit of engranded dirt off your hands use a pumice stone or similar. All these are my tried and tested ways to clean hands.
Tight nuts, bolts etc heat them up and cool with WD40 as in contracts the WD40 gets into the rusted places and it helps to loosen them rusty nuts n bolts.

Stu.

Yep I too have used grease to draw the muck out of skin, found that one out in my first job leaving school working in an hgv fitters, I was taught to throw wheel bearing races into the grease barrel then fish them out before fitting them, and my hands were always cleaner afterwards

Back on topic, lol
my punches arrived today, so I can finish the gaskets off, now the exhaust is off, I can look at a final clean and warm the block ready for painting, still need to prep the cover plates etc for painting. Does anyone have a source for the model plate rivets or should I stick with my first plan (find some aly rivets cut a couple of bits of and beat 'em) .


Matt:
I don't possess any 3 in 1, but I do use this a lot, its great for chains, springs, hinges and of course guns, its very similar in smell and viscosity to the ox24 we used on our weps in the mob .

Andy try warming the paint before you start helps it flow better. Just take the lid off and put the tin in a pan of hot water and maybe heat on the hob if you wife's not watching

Stu.

stationary stu wrote:Andy try warming the paint before you start helps it flow better. Just take the lid off and put the tin in a pan of hot water and maybe heat on the hob if you wife's not watching

Stu.

I usually bring paint indoors the night before I'm going to paint anything, it's like trying to apply treacle in this weather!

lol Stu, not going to get away with that one

had the fan heater out there for a couple of hours this morning warming the paint and the block, the rust converter went on:



I know the rust converter did its stuff with the added heat, it was lightly smoking as I put it on, a usual side effect of speeding the chemical reaction up when there is a bit of heat

a little later, this happened:



primary coat is on , feel a bit more like its coming together now

smoke breaks are getting longer

What type of rust converter are you using/do you recommend? I've got some Kurust, which is OK I suppose, but am interested to know what others reckon.

nutgone wrote:What type of rust converter are you using/do you recommend? I've got some Kurust, which is OK I suppose, but am interested to know what others reckon.

I use flag, they have been making marine paints for I don't know how long, this stuff you just wire wheel the lose off as much as poss, then paint this on, it goes black when gone off, then you can either prime or just paint it.
It covers very well too
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Rust+Converter/p51990

I'm thinking about trying this stuff, I'm going to spray the underside of the van with it first then what's left use on the engines.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260521454714?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Stu.

stationary stu wrote:I'm thinking about trying this stuff, I'm going to spray the underside of the van with it first then what's left use on the engines.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260521454714?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Stu.

intriguing, let me know how it goes

It's going to be a while as I'll not do it till the warmer/dryer weather come, which could be anytime

Stu.

blackvanman wrote:

nutgone wrote:What type of rust converter are you using/do you recommend? I've got some Kurust, which is OK I suppose, but am interested to know what others reckon.

I use flag, they have been making marine paints for I don't know how long, this stuff you just wire wheel the lose off as much as poss, then paint this on, it goes black when gone off, then you can either prime or just paint it.
It covers very well too
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Rust+Converter/p51990

Come to think of it, you might have told us that before.

I've got a Tool Station just down the road, will have to pop in & get some. The Kurust is OK, but it's another Hammerite product, & I'm trying to avoid using their stuff as it's rarely any good. I had thought about getting some Jenolite. The Kurust worked really well on the Tarpen 2 exhaust, it stinks when you first run it, but seems to cope well with the heat (probably because it's more of a metal treatment than a coating). I always use lots of it when I service a caravan fridge for one of the family's caravans.

I've used Jenolite in the past it's good stuff but very expensive (was a few years ago don't know now). Problem with Jenolite you have to get rid of as much rust as possable first for it to have any lasting effect. I'm trying more of the un-branded stuff, most of it is made by chemical companies so they should have a good idea on how to make it and if it's no use people won't buy it so they go bust, not like a named company where there products are not to good (cr4p) but there name sells it. I've got a name for a company that makes proper penatrating fluid which I'm going to try soon, they do a small tester for 99p so I'll let you know the verdict in a few months time when the weather warms up and I can start working outside again.

Stu.

getting there,



its all going back together, need Georgia to paint the script on the round side cover, makers plate to go back on the oil filler plate, front face to be painted on the fly wheel, tank to clean, paint & fit, governor arm to replace, magneto to fit and time up the ignition......... the list goes on

Looking good. Is that Wolseley Green? Or another shade? (I always liked the WDs in green).

nutgone wrote:Looking good. Is that Wolseley Green? Or another shade? (I always liked the WDs in green).

mid Brunswick, on account that at £30 for a tin (after VAT & shipping) it can get what its given and be grateful Using what I already have sits better with the wife as well

Well, I couldn't tell the difference.

I've found a good source of cheap machine enamel, I'm using some on Ian's Stuart Turner. Think details are on his thread, but it's good stuff & only about £12 a litre, available in all old tractor colours, as well as some engine colours & some "named" colours. Also in all the RAL & BS colours. Good stuff, but is traditional paint, not self undercoating or with built in rust inhibitors. Requires good primer & 2 top coats (I'm so used to Rustoleum, which requires no primer/undercoat & usually only one coat. But Rustoleum is about double the price).

I refuse to pay what some of these "Stationary Engine" places want for paint, when it can usually be colour matched anyway.

This is about the cheapest on ebay for enamel paint. Or if you go to a paint suppliers you can get it there at a good price, I've one localish to me and it was £9 a litre last time I was there.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/DISCOUNT-CAR-PRODUCTS/_i.html?_nkw=paint&submit=Search&_sid=124993819 shame about the postage being so high.

Stu.