A Wolseley at last!!!!

stationary stu wrote:Looks as if it had a fair bit cr4p in it Andy and nice job of removing the stud. So are you just going to continue stripping it or just do anything that's necessary, I know it took ages to clean all the gunk out of the sump on my WD so maybe that should be your next job

Stu.

already on that Stu, scooped most of the gunk out, then diluted the rest with paraffin, wd40 to thin the last remnants, and that is being soaked up with blue roll I also removed the drain tube last night, bugger snapped off on me, coal chiselled the thread out of the casting without damaging the thread on the block, also found as well as the core plug on the flywheel side being missing, the one on the drain tube casting was also rotten (I have replacements for info they are 1 3/16" welch type, and I have a source locally), so I've pulled that one out. I have been unable to source a mild steel 1/2" bsp tube for the drain pipe, however I can get a brass (oh great something to polish ) 4" barrel nipple from a marine supplier locally, going to put an MT cock on the end.

still loads of bits to sort, flywheel still needs to come off, need to fully strip the carb, get all the charcoal out of the fuel tank (will get some shots inside the tank with my endoscope), make gaskets, source a stud & possibly a nut (DOH). Going to give the valves another lap while the head is off, mag to sort when the parts arrive (that's going to be fun!), then prep, paint and re-assemble plus of course anything else that bites me in the arse along the way

Oh and make some kind of trolley....

That was fun, I only went out there for a smoke before lunch

Nice one Andy you've removed the flywheel, I take it that it came off fairly easy as you were only out for a smake break.

Stu.

stationary stu wrote:Nice one Andy you've removed the flywheel, I take it that it came off fairly easy as you were only out for a smake break.

Stu.

well, what i meant was it turned into a half hr smoke break lol, it came off fairly well, but I did pre-treat it the night before, i heated and cooled (naturaly cooled) the flywheel around the keyway, applied some shock to the gib key and soaked it up with parafin

Sounds as if your pre-treatment worked well, nice one mate.

Stu.

mag sorted, replacement impulse spring
video here

Good stuff!

Don't suppose you know what mag should go on my Stuart Turner P6??? I'll have to put a pic of the drive face up on my thread.

Glad to see yours is working though, it's always a worry, the mag.

nutgone wrote:

matt86 wrote:Andy there is a trick with piston rings to get them off if there siezed in the gap , long soak in derv , heat rings up and with a punch just tap the ring gently all the way around ... If you feel the need to prize it dont , as it will go ping . Happened a few times to me before my Fowler piston had all rings stuck good and proper but in end got all freed and removed rings with my piton ring pliers . cleaned up grooves and oil up and replace .

not trying to tell a granny how to suck eggs just a bit of a trick mate .

matt

I've heard meths is good as well. (& not bad at getting piston rings out either )

I didn't know about tapping them with a punch though. I've always got them out with a quick spray of GT85, but admittedly they weren't too bad. the last real bad ones I had came out in pieces, one was broken anyway, the other was pretty far gone, so no great loss.

I think with all these things it's about patience, but I think there are those times when you'll never get the ring out without breaking it.

Anyone tried meths? I saw it in an old Stuart Turner manual. Bit expensive for soaking pistons though. I've got some French meths, but it bloody stinks! & it's not purple, like the Brit stuff.

When i say tap with a punch i dont me hitting it with a hammer

just something thats made of metal and got a small flat tip and tap gently using your hand , like a stippling effect when using a paint brush .

Heat and soaking is your friend . but never pry ... next thing "PING" an a fking bolox

nice work so far Andy

If you need a 1/2 bsp tap for the drain tube i have one that you can borrow mate , also have a wolselly literature which i wont be using if your interested ....

matt

matt86 wrote:
When i say tap with a punch i dont me hitting it with a hammer

just something thats made of metal and got a small flat tip and tap gently using your hand , like a stippling effect when using a paint brush .

Heat and soaking is your friend . but never pry ... next thing "PING" an a fking bolox

No, I kind of got that, but thanks for clearing that up, it helps to know exactly whet you mean. I haven't had any trouble with piston rings for some time, especially with my thin strips of stainless which I use to get them off of pistons (don't have the special pliers I'm afraid ). It's a game of patience really with piston rings. But I still think there are times when you'll never get them off in one piece. My dad broke some on his Velocette GTP a few months ago, he claims it was practically melted in there & there was no way it would come out in one piece, but I never saw the piston myself, so I remain sceptical

i know what you mean matt .

But in our hobby if the the rings look is good shape , as not worn top edge etc and are just stuck dies to be gummed up / stood for many years etc surely its worth trying to save a few ££££'s

i have a snap on set of piston ring pliers had them for years now wasn't too expensive either . I bought them when doing my apprenticeship and had in my tool box every company i worked for and only used them on my own jobs ... typical so live at home now used them on stationary engines quite a bit . Most stuff at work never goes wrong to allocate a rebuild , bigger stuff gets kept only for 5 years . But still some older mowers older than me and engine still going strong !

Oh the pliers are like these ... worth buying for that price i say..... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pro-PISTON-RING-COMPRESSOR-PLIERS-for-50mm-to-100mm-DIAMETER-RINGS-/261134898803?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3cccda5673

matt
.

Blimey! That is a good price!

So, let me get this right, they will help you take rings off a piston & put them back on??? So I won't need to do the trick with the little slivers of metal any more??? (not that I mind, but it's a fiddly thing to do & I'd be more than happy to pay that price not to have to do it).

I agree though, most times rings are fine, it's usually impatience that snaps them.

Obviously not in this case though, I'm sure Blackvanman did all he could here to get it off in one piece.

matt86 wrote:nice work so far Andy

If you need a 1/2 bsp tap for the drain tube i have one that you can borrow mate , also have a wolselly literature which i wont be using if your interested ....

matt

Cheers Matt, not sure if Dad has a tap, if not I'll give you a ring, mind you quite a way to drive lol.
What literature? I have a manual in pdf (chocolate fire guard), but anything else could be a bonus.....

matt you just place over piston by ring with the 2 guides line up and squeeze until touches the ring then squeeze some more and key presto open the ring while supporting the outside hence helps without snapping them .

i would never use anything but them now !

matt

blackvanman wrote:

matt86 wrote:nice work so far Andy

If you need a 1/2 bsp tap for the drain tube i have one that you can borrow mate , also have a wolselly literature which i wont be using if your interested ....

matt

Cheers Matt, not sure if Dad has a tap, if not I'll give you a ring, mind you quite a way to drive lol.
What literature? I have a manual in pdf (chocolate fire guard), but anything else could be a bonus.....

If your really stuck i can post to you mate ... and when finished post back .

matt

matt86 wrote:

blackvanman wrote:

matt86 wrote:nice work so far Andy

If you need a 1/2 bsp tap for the drain tube i have one that you can borrow mate , also have a wolselly literature which i wont be using if your interested ....

matt

Cheers Matt, not sure if Dad has a tap, if not I'll give you a ring, mind you quite a way to drive lol.
What literature? I have a manual in pdf (chocolate fire guard), but anything else could be a bonus.....

If your really stuck i can post to you mate ... and when finished post back .

matt

ok thanks, its only really to clean the thread, i'll let you know

scary really, only a couple of fiddly bits before prep and paint

blackvanman wrote:mag sorted, replacement impulse spring
video here

Great stuff Andy, and I was expecting a video full of swearing

Stu.

stationary stu wrote:

blackvanman wrote:mag sorted, replacement impulse spring
video here

Great stuff Andy, and I was expecting a video full of swearing

Stu.

Who? Me?

right, been out again, cleaned the block pre painting, decided it would be a good time to fit the core plugs, bugger, 1 3/16" just doesn't do it. Need to find some 1 13/64".......

.......after some research and thinking, I will probably need to get 1 1/4" and machine it down, could be interesting

blackvanman wrote:.......after some research and thinking, I will probably need to get 1 1/4" and machine it down, could be interesting

right,
picked up a couple of 1 1/4" welch plugs, the first one went pretty much straight in the drain tube core plug hole, result!!! Gave that one a bang, lovely! Now for the one on the flywheel side of the block, as expected 1/64" too big, now for the fun bit, how to machine a 1 1/4" metal disc removing 1/64"........... evenly, (don't try this at home ) found a bearing kicking around, put it in the drill press vice, withdrew the chuck jaws so the chuck itself made even contact, placed the welch plug dome down on bearing, brought the chuck down to pin the plug, checked centre. Now the fun moves up a stage, with left hand hanging off the lowering handle, I switched the drill on..........well it actually worked!!! Next with my right hand I brought the file into play (making sure it was running against the grain of the file), granted a i shall not swear rough was probably not the best first choice, but it was the closest to hand
Second plug now fitted

All appropriate health and safety measures were of course in place, the fire brigade, police, ambulance, mountain rescue and MI5/6 were informed, a risk assessment was performed and any necessary PPE was left in the van, I mean worn at all times

Nice work Andy, don't know if it would class as precision engineering.

I see you had a full turn out in case of emergency's but I wonder if the Army bomb disposal squad maybe should have been invited because if that bearing had exploded they would see if there was any balls left in your stomach (they have great metal detectors) before going to hospital.

Stu.

little update:
ok, from the start I knew what my main nemesis was going to be:



over the last 2 days, I have heated and allowed to cool both the block and the 1" bsp fitting, only one of them per sitting, never both at the same time, this causes any corrosion in the thread to be crushed/compressed when the fitting is heated and pulled apart when the block is heated.

I didn't hold my breath on this one, it looked bad, but...........

Ah, well done!

I've been using some of your "Marine Engineer" methods lately to get stubborn screws & bolts out, in fact I have just this minute got one out, although it wasn't the most stubborn bolt ever, but it was very difficult to get to, so I made a screw slot in the head (it's only a 1/8whit spanner size) with my Dremmel & it's tiny diamond cutting disc.

I still had to heat the aluminium case to get it out though, & although I knew the benefits of heating things & hitting them with a hammer for a long time, I'd never put the 2 together with the WD40 trick until you suggested it to me, so thanks for that. I've really needed it lately, & it's really come in handy.

In fact there are a few tricks I've learnt from this forum, & in some cases put my own twist on them, which are now commonplace in my workshop. I'm now filtering old Kerosene through coffee filter papers & using it as a parts wash prior to a final rinse in brake & clutch cleaner, I think it was something Kev said which put me onto that, it gets expensive when you just use brake & clutch cleaner. I've now got a kero parts wash spray bottle & an industrial kitchen roasting tin for my parts washing, it would've taken me ages to put it all together without reading this forum & putting different ideas together.

My parts wash also contains old unusable fuel from engines & some waste 2-stroke, some diesel & even some white spirit. I let it settle first then filter it as I need it. The waste left in the parts wash tin get's filtered back into a container for future parts washing. Not quite as complicated as Kev's system, but I'm using coffee filters, & they're bloody slow!

hmmm, CAV filter housing and a drill pump? may be a lot quicker...

glad some of my ramblings are of use, yes the wd40 makes a massive difference on aly work, its thin enough combined with the heat to get right in there