Petter A1 by first time restorer

Moving the thread to here from New Member area.

I'm a first time restorer working on a siezed and very rusty Petter A1.

Contacting Jim Perkins I discovered my engine was sold to Sturgeon Bros, Diss, Norfolk on 10th July 1947 making it a smidge under 20 years older than me! Sturgeon Brothers were agricultural engineers, some of their records are held at the Suffolk Records office so I'll visit there at some point.

After lots of soaking and tapping I eventually had to resport to heat to rmove the pin that is used as the govenor arm on the gear housing. A bit of straightening required here!

Hi Richard,

Best of luck with your project.
PM me with email address if you need a manual.

I thought I'd posted this earlier but it's yet to appear?

Dismantling is progressing nicely, first tin of penetrating oil is empty! Having removed the starting shaft assembly, how do I separate it for cleaning and painting please? Also, should I replace the spring? Thanks.

Push the collar back against the spring and it will expose a wire circlip, remove this and the collar followed by the spring will slide off the shaft, the shaft can then be pulled out the other way being careful not to damage/tear the felt washer.

Robotstar5 wrote:Push the collar back against the spring and it will expose a wire circlip, remove this and the collar followed by the spring will slide off the shaft, the shaft can then be pulled out the other way being careful not to damage/tear the felt washer.

Excellent, many thanks Stuart

Head is off One stud came out too. Looks like I'll now have to evict a family of snails.

The target for this weekend is the removal of the exhaust and carburetter manifold. Any thoughts on the best technique please? The nut on the stud is badly corroded away such that a spanner (would it have been 1/4 W?) will no longer grip.

Richard,
Give the nut and stud a good soaking in release agent over night, then find a socket that is a close tight fit and hammer it onto the nut, if that doesnt work use a die grinder to grind away one side of the nut.
Maryalice

maryalice wrote:Richard,
Give the nut and stud a good soaking in release agent over night, then find a socket that is a close tight fit and hammer it onto the nut, if that doesnt work use a die grinder to grind away one side of the nut.
Maryalice

Brilliant, many thanks, that worked a treat




Now, what is the proper / best / easiest way to remove a stud?

You can by studd removing tools which lock and grip the stud as you undo or do up the stud.
Maryalice

Do you need to remove the stud?, I cleaned & painted mine in situ then just ran a die down the threads to clean them up.

Maryalice wrote:You can by studd removing tools which lock and grip the stud as you undo or do up the stud.

Robotstar5 wrote:Do you need to remove the stud?, I cleaned & painted mine in situ then just ran a die down the threads to clean them up.

Thank you both for those thoughts. I'll see how things progress!

To be fair if the stud is pitted and looking past it's best a replacement is always better as it looks nicer, getting it out you can use 2 nuts back to back and try that, mole grips will sometimes work but will muller it, if you have a welder then weld a nut to it, again this will render the stud useless. Proper stud remover tools are around but I've managed without one for years.

Mine wasn't too bad...

... cleaned and painted ready to go back on

... that both valves being up is a bad sign, especially where the inlet is not touching the cam shaft follower?

To be fair I'd be more worried about the tin work than the valves, it probably just a little gummy. I think I have spare valves at the old house.

I've made a puller to try to shift the gib key on the belt drive wheel, its 5mm steel angle with M10 bolts. Tried it yesterday, initially soaked in penetrating oil then after applying heat, but all I've done is destroy the puller!


Do I need to remove the shaft extension piece first? If so is it conventional or reverse thread as I've tried both and that won't shift either!


Any ideas what I can try next please? Thanks in advance.

Try a slide hammer, easily made from a piece of bar and a lump of metal to side along the bar, weld the bar to the key and hammer it off.

In the 2nd pic it looks like there is no where for the key to go when you pull it?

Is the shaft on the left with the keyway the extension piece you are on about?

The shaft is a standard thread - ¾" BSF

[quote="Robotstar5"]In the 2nd pic it looks like there is no where for the key to go when you pull it?

Is the shaft on the left with the keyway the extension piece you are on about?

The shaft is a standard thread - ¾" BSF

[url=https://servimg.com/view/20008529/240][img]https://i.servimg.com/u/f93/20/00/85/29/shafte10.jpg[/img][/url]
[/quote]

The smaller shaft should still allow the key to come out of the main crank. Looking at the key it's going to be a slide hammer or curved key drift job that one. A bolt type puller stands no chance. Needs shock, not gentle pull.

Thanks for all your thoughts. I'll progress and will report back.

OK, so my first engine has gone on the back burner, still siezed

The good news is that I've found a replacement This one turns over and has good compession, plus the tin work is much better! This one is also a norfolk engine, it bears a second "makers" plate and dates from 1949.


I'm currently beaming because I've removed my first gib key, using a slide hammer as recommended above


One part I cannot transfer from my first engine is the magneto. This engine has the govenor still in place, is there a specific model of magneto I need to find?