oh no not again ... Amanco chore boy

Villiers wrote:Mine just fell off, it should be a tight push fit, not sure about yours though.

might give a gentle tap ... so still think spring should be looser still ?

Villiers wrote:So not enough suck (oh err!!) needs tightening then I reckon. Tighter the spring, more it sucks, try it on the misses!

that makes sense .... er love get your lips around that !   

No, tighter. Too loose and no suck of the fuel. To tight and too much suckky.

Villiers wrote:No, tighter. Too loose and no suck of the fuel. To tight and too much suckky.

makes sense really ... il give it a go .

I'd try heating the choke cover right up, that way it should expand enough to come off, will bugger the spring though if you are not careful.

got it off in the end with a small hammer and punch and i have modified the choke just uploading pictures

like this you mean ...







when took it off was surprised to see there was just a bolt so replaced it with a longer one a a longer spring .

matt

No, spring goes between the head of the bolt and the flap, then the nut is on the outside.

Villiers wrote:No, spring goes between the head of the bolt and the flap, then the nut is on the outside.

ahhh i see now , that sense would be partially closed most of the time until the engine sucks through inlet valve sucking the flap to close and drawing fuel up ... the original spring was on the outside , i may need to shorten the spring a tad as it does not want to be closed all the time does it ?

Flap should be closed all the time, it's the piston going back that opens the valve and draws air in, to much opening and less fuel get's sucked up, not enough opening and not enough fuel sucked up, simples really.

Villiers wrote:Flap should be closed all the time, it's the piston going back that opens the valve and draws air in, to much opening and less fuel get's sucked up, not enough opening and not enough fuel sucked up, simples really.

i get you now , so when you say flap disc closed you mean closed as seated up into the carb body or closed as down into the bowl ?

Closed onto the bottom of the bowl. If yours was outside the bowl then it wouldn't work anyway as when the piston went "down" on the induction stroke it wouldn't be able to suck air/fuel in, it is supposed to "open" that valve by going "down" to BTC, how your valve was set with the spring on the outside it sucked it closed.

Villiers wrote:Closed onto the bottom of the bowl. If yours was outside the bowl then it wouldn't work anyway as when the piston went "down" on the induction stroke it wouldn't be able to suck air/fuel in, it is supposed to "open" that valve by going "down" to BTC, how your valve was set with the spring on the outside it sucked it closed.

i will have a fiddle later on after this chaps been to pick up the cake breaker and see how we go , would it be better to fit a weaker spring that the original and can tension with nuts to get correct pressure rather than being too tight ..

i had just pmed you about the conversasion the other night and it came back to me about the carb base valve ,as you said about covering the holes for it to run smoother  sorry i was a day and a half slow on thinking of this one ,but atleast someone has already brought it up and youve done a mod
the spring doesnt have to be very strong at all matt, yours is looking a bit to over kill dont think it will lift that spring and bolts weight very handly matt
as my 2 1/4 only has a cone spring about the strength of a writing pen spring ,dont forget it has to lift the cup valve,bolt and springs weight and get the fuel in half a revoluion
but it should make it over fuel ,so you know its the cause from before in reverse know ,and sort things out for there on as needed
kev

right lads i think i have crack it well almost ...

i done what villiers have said and replaced the spring with a weak spring , does take a bit more cranking to get going but it works or i found if you slip your hand over most of holes and then can take your hand off once running and adjust fuel mix from there .

matt86 wrote:right lads i think i have crack it well almost ...

i done what villiers have said and replaced the spring with a weak spring , does take a bit more cranking to get going but it works or i found if you slip your hand over most of holes and then can take your hand off once running and adjust fuel mix from there .

that is the way most get started either buy flooding via the check vallve or hand over the carb or flicking over a few times but not leting exhurst valve make compression until your dribbling out the bowl ,then let it have it and pop away
so sounds more like what were all trying to get it to go like ,also noticed you carb valve is loads smaller than the ones on mine so will have more lifting force for the spring ,that i thought was to big  
kev

kev i will be uploading a video seen soon and its different to how its pictured , im not taking it off again today so not picturing it now  

That runs better, need to sort that dripping tap out though. I wouldn't bother with a check valve as it runs ok without it.

Villiers wrote:That runs better, need to sort that dripping tap out though. I wouldn't bother with a check valve as it runs ok without it.

that the reason for the little bucket !

i think remove give it a clean and a bit of brasso on the seat and should seal as its bloody annoying !

thought i should pull my fingers out and get this on a trolley . For now i will be using the original timber until i have my next day off work and can go get some hardwood as i can only get during day but im at work  

Just mocked up the axle for now needs brackets welding up and the holes drilling for split pins .As you guess its going to be a wheel barrow type trolley , i have had a attempt to bend the handles but not much success using 8mm flat bar so i think i will get some turned up handles from some round bar and should be a bit more easy on the hands .







Matt

Looking good mate get your mate to knock me up a set will you lol

Abes wrote:Looking good mate get your mate to knock me up a set will you lol

Abes , if this design ends up being a good design i think i will have to have a few pairs knocked out and kept for stock , all will be set to be used for 25mm axle .

Once the axle has been welded up i can start to design and knock up the feet , on the plus side i got plenty of flat bar .

matt

matt
looking good and strong build there lado
crack on as always:) 
kev

got the axle welded up today and the holes drilled for the split pins .

Now i need to get it bolted to the timber and make the the feet for the back.








matt