Lister D Questions

Just been running my Lister D but I've noticed there may be a few problems that need ironing out: Firstly the governor leaks oil from the filler, should it do this? Secondly the engine runs for about 6 or 7 minutes before bogging down, smoking out the exhaust (It doesn't smoke when running normally) and sounding like its struggling. However as soon as I stop the engine, re-prime the carb and set the needle valve in the same place it runs fine! Does anyone know why this may be? ...and two quick questions: What should the valve lash be? Book says .003" but it doesn't like that and I was recommended 0.010" which runs better but makes a racket. Finally how would I check the timing for the magneto?
Sorry its a mouthful of questions!
Thanks
James

the governor leaking is due to over oiling it,drain the oil out the governor by undoing the 3 bolts on the bit where throttle linkage attaches..
timing the mag..turn the engine till tdc wirebrush the flywheel or look closely you will see a mark like a elongated Z this is the timing mark,as that mark comes to the top of the flywheel the mag points should just be opening..

what color smoke??
when u say reprime the carb is this because the carb is empty of fuel??
I set the valve clearance by feel on the lister D..in that i mean just so the rockers have a bit of movement/clearance.

The smoke is grey/white not thick and the carb is empty of fuel (I think) when the engine stops. The engine won't start again unless I reprime it and then it starts after only a few swings.
Hope this helps!
James

After a brief run (5mins), head re-tightening, governor oil drain, valve lash re-set and timing checked it was quieter and seemed to run better but now it vibrates a bit more... Towards the end of the run there was smoke out the exhaust (the same white thinly dispersed smoke) The engine does have the brass fuel filter so maybe this is suspect?
Thanks for any help
James

Well after emptying a lot of water from the cylinder I think it's safe to say that it wasn't smoke but steam... I think a new head gasket may be useful...
James

get the brass type gasket as they are much better than the paper ones.

Its brass? The one one it looks like copper could be a while though, stripping it completely...
James

Breif painting question: I've almost fully stripped the flywheel (it weighs a ton! (35kg...)) but there is still some blobs of red oxide primer here and there. Does it all need to come off even if I will reprime and paint it?
Thanks!
James

bradders wrote:Its brass? The one one it looks like copper could be a while though, stripping it completely...
James

Bradders,

Can't see it being brass, but copper is what the originals were and are still. Wouldn't hurt to check for water in the oil as well as a headgasket problem may have contaminated it. Wouldn't want to use it again if it was. I'd buy new oil if it was indeed contaminated.

Cheers, John.

John
The oil did come out grey with the occasional oil coloured blotch here and there... Before running it though it was clean so there could be a problem there I guess...
James

yeah sorry meant copper gasket..you can reuse them ones as well..

But if there was alot of water in the cylinder then is it worth it?
James

bradders wrote:Breif painting question: I've almost fully stripped the flywheel (it weighs a ton! (35kg...)) but there is still some blobs of red oxide primer here and there. Does it all need to come off even if I will reprime and paint it?
Thanks!
James

depends if you want to see them or if you want a smooth paint job. if they stand proud a couple of mm it will take a few coats of paint to cover them so you cant see them sticking out. a good paint job starts with the prep.dont rush things,take you're time and get things right from the start.


mat

You could try to re anneal the gasket if it is not too bad by firing it in a very hot oven (when the wife is out) letting it get very hot and quenching it in the sink in cold water.......all before she gets back!!

Dont forget the air freshner just in case

billypurves wrote:You could try to re anneal the gasket if it is not too bad by firing it in a very hot oven

A very hot oven? 200*C? Or mini blowtorch...?
James

You want the copper red hot then quench.

billypurves wrote:You want the copper red hot then quench.

Oh, that hot... That could be interesting...

stationary engine parts (can find them on ebay) sell the copper gasket for 13.99 with free p+p,a lot less hastle and its new.

I'll have a look, I think I'll try heating the old one first but that probably won't work out... Also does anyone know how to remove both sides of the crankcase? (flywheel and starter side)
Thanks!

An oven won't get copper hot enough to anneal it, you need a flame. The copper must be heated to a uniform cherry red. It doesn't necessarily need to be quenched (in an engineering sense "annealing" is leaving to cool naturally, but with gaskets it's better to quench as it also helps to clean the copper). Maybe under a good gas grill might be hot enough, but I wouldn't have thought a normal household oven is up to it.

The main problem with annealing larger gaskets is getting the entire gasket to the same temperature at the same time. You could do it in sections, but I don't know how successful this would be.

Also, be careful when it is annealed as it turns the copper very very soft (if you've done it right), & they are very easy to bend & kink afterwards.

Personally I think Stationaryengineparts.com price for a gasket is a bit of a rip off (but I'm not their greatest fan anyway, so I could be biased). I would rather go for a copper composite one from somewhere else for about a fiver, I mean if it's done right you shouldn't need to re-use it.

I would say chuck that oil, it should never be grey. Get rid, get the inspection plate off & give it a good clean out in there. Possibly even invest in some flushing oil, then when it's back together run it for 10-30 minutes on the flushing oil, drain then refill with your normal running oil. Once it has emulsified with the water it is pretty useless & it needs to go or it could contaminate the next oil you put in there. Also, emulsified oil can corrode metal where it settles.

Give the annealing a try though, I find a gas cooker ring is best. Remember- cherry red then quench. It could save you a few quid. If the gasket has any damage then don't waste your time. (Also, you can only quench solid copper gaskets. If it's a composite one, IE: something like asbestos sandwiched between 2 thin slivers of copper, then don't even try).

Make sure both mating faces are nice & clean & dry. They should be shiny, with no oil grease or anything else (especially no compounds). I usually scrape (carefully) the surfaces clean then finish off with some P500 wet & dry paper with plenty of lubrication (like WD40 spray or similar, it helps the abrasive paper & stops it clogging up), then clean off with clean dry rag to remove the residue. Tighten the bolts down in the correct order (starting from the middle & working out towards the edges) & the job should be a success.

Think that's about it. Best of luck.

Thanks Nuts! That could prove very useful! I'm not entirely sure if the gasket is just copper or not, I'll have a look. I've never seen oil gone hey before but that may be because I've never worked on a water cooled engine before... Now I have it seems that the head gasket is fairly important at not turning the engine into a wreck!

I did have a look at the gasket on stationary engine parts and it does seem a little expensive so I can only hope that the gasket I've got is solid copper...
Thanks again for all your help
James

Trying to strip down the crank case and I've managed to get part of the flywheel side cover off (the small cover with a metal thing on the shaft behind it) but I can't get the actual housing to move! Also I can't get the side of the case with the starter dog on to move either... Does anyone know how to remove them?
Thanks
James