Lister sprocket, crank and other questions

I've been working on my Lister recently, needed a full overhaul after what I found in the head and sump (lots of water...) but have now run into a couple of issues. Firstly can anyone tell me the crankshaft layout? I've got the bearing in and the crank but after that I don't have a clue... Next is how is the sprocket attached to the governor side of the engine removed? It's the one which drives the magneto but I can't seem to get it off, I'm guessing there's a trick? Finally would paint stripper attack the brass I.D plate? If so how is it removed, it seems riveted in...
Thanks for any help!  

Not sure what your problem is with the crankshaft, please explain more!  The sprocket is on a taper, put the nut back on the shaft until it is flush with the shaft end (to protect the threads) and put a lever behind the sprocket.  Tap the shaft end with a hammer and it should come loose.  The rivets screw themselves in but can be removed by gently levering the plate, they can be refitted with a dab of epoxy glue.

Pete.

I am assuming by brass ID plate you mean the plates on the crankcase door. The rivets can be knocked through from the back of the door using a punch.

I can only echo Pete s request for more information on your crankpin problem.

Thanks for the help! That explains alot! Sorry about the crank question, I'll try to explain! I'm rebuilding the engine and I've got to the crankshaft/ output shaft, where the flywheel rotates. I'm stuck at the order at which to reassemble it with what parts (ie what should go on the crankshaft after the bearing and housing)
Hope this clears that up!

bradders wrote:Thanks for the help! That explains alot! Sorry about the crank question, I'll try to explain! I'm rebuilding the engine and I've got to the crankshaft/ output shaft, where the flywheel rotates. I'm stuck at the order at which to reassemble it with what parts (ie what should go on the crankshaft after the bearing and housing)
Hope this clears that up!

 
 Easy!  Bearing on first
 

 
Followed by housing and outer bearing
 

 
And then the oil thrower, grubscrew and spring ring, put split in ring 180 degrees from the grub screw.
 

 
 
And finally the cover (no gasket required).  Make sure that the oil return drain lines up with the hole in the housing, ie at the bottom.
 

 
 
Pete.

Pete, you're a life saver! Thanks very much! I'll set about digging out those bits tomorrow!

Paint stripper should be fine, but I would recommend taking the brass plate off. As Billypurves said you can usually knock the old rivets out from the back, I did this on my A type & the old ones went back in (I left a bit of paint in the holes, which probably helped them jam in there).

It looks so much better with fresh paint under the plate, rather than trying to cut in around it or using masking tape. I know sometimes you can't get these plates off, but if you can it's so much easier.

If they are a bit loose on reassembly then, just like Pete says, use a bit of epoxy-type glue to set them in.

You can even buy new brass rivets quite cheap, but probably won't need them.

I'm really glad these guys have helped out so well here, I've got a Lister D to do with my nephews soon, this information is invaluable. But I still recommend taking lots of digital photos as you are dismantling these things, I would've been lost & in a bit of a mess without all my disassembly pics on some of my less well-known engines.

I'll have a look and see if they will come out, hopefully they will! Taking pictures would be a great asset but I don't normally carry a camera/ phone in the garage, maybe I should...
Thanks everyone for all your help!

I only use my phone for pictures, don't actually own a proper digital camera. You can never take them all though, you get carried away & hands get all dirty etc etc, before you know it the engine's in bits.

I'm thinking of keeping an old phone in the workshop to take pictures with, my last 2 phones take perfectly acceptable shots, in fact my last one takes better pictures than my current one.

That definitely makes alot of sense, I'll set about trying that so I don't get this problem again!