lister d crank end float tolerance

Hi all,
I have asked on another post but i think it may be beneficial for other people so i'll make a new one.
anyway i've been knock hunting on my lister and have found a small amount of end float on the timing side of the crank. there is 0.20mm (0.008") is this within tolerance? also, if i hold the timing side crank web and the big end crank bearing there is a small amount of movement, i didn't measure it but i reckon it would be around 0.3mm play between the slot in the crank web and the rectangle bit that engages with it. is this within tolerance?
if it is then it must be a flywheel knock, the pulley is off but the key head has been cut! I'm not sure what i'll do if the flywheel needs to come off. drill and tap i suppose.

thanks for any help given, and if any one has the lister d tolerances list that would be brilliant.

callum

That all seems normal to me, the only actual tolerance mentioned in the original D type handbook is big end clearance which is 7 thou max between the bush and crankpin though they will run happily with more than that. My first D type had a knock that sounded like a big end, the reason why the engine was taken out of service, however when I bought it and stripped it down there was a tooth missing from the camshaft gear which was the cause of the knock! Any small noise will be amplified with a cast iron crankcase and cylinder block.
Check your flywheel key, set the tappets to around 10 thou clearance (again not critical, it isn't a racing engine) or could the noise just be piston slap as D's are prone to that when worn?

Pete.

some one said to me that any slight knock or even just normal mechanical sound will be amplified after a crankcase clean out. which i did do, there was about an inch or two of sludge bellow the bearing.
i've removed the pulley and given the key a good tap and it hasn't visibly moved wether it has microscopically i don't know. i'll give it a run at some point to see.
there is no piston slap as the rings are not worn to the best of my knowledge. I haven't gapped them or anything but there is plenty of compression and it was hard enough getting the piston back in the bore. and the rest of the engine is perfect. so its definitely got to be a bearing or key issue.

thanks for the info

callum