Turner V Twin Diesel

How comes that will happen. Surely it should be the same as knocking the piston back down.

If the piston and barrel are over tdc surely it shouldn't matter which gets knocked down. As it will have the same affect.

Many thanks Lewis

Hughesy wrote:How comes that will happen. Surely it should be the same as knocking the piston back down.

If the piston and barrel are over tdc surely it shouldn't matter which gets knocked down. As it will have the same affect.

Many thanks Lewis

quite simply, if the barrel is free, and piston stuck in the barrel and when you move the flywheel in a certain direction the barrel lifts, it is not dead on tdc. If you lift the barrel to the highest point the crank will allow, you are bang on tdc. For any benefit to come from hitting the barrel you must be working against the crank and therefore sending shock and impact through the big/little ends.

Although your piston is very near the top of the bore, it is not at full tdc. As the piston is stuck to the bore any force will be used in freeing it off as the crank is free to move it will move when the piston does (which is when you stop hitting it). Simple physics.

Okay I shall be working on knocking the piston.

Hopefully it will free up. Many thanks Lewis.

I'm not 100% sure of what your doing but if the barrel is moving when turning the engine can you put wedges under the barrel and by turning the engine it should move the piston in the bore then repeat till it free.

Stu.

Today the new valve turned up and all looks good with it, fits nicely and shows just how much the others have worn over the years.
In the package was a list of all the other parts the gentleman has from clearing out the turning factory and its quite alot 6 pages of spares all new old stock.



Seeings the valve turned up today i thought i would go to a friend of mine who runs a commercial garage to have the seat in the head re cut.
Unfortuantly its gne to far to be cut back in. New valve seat insert it is then.

Going to ring monday to see how much a new valve inserts going to cost.

Just glad the other 3 valves are okay.


The exhaust is over at my grandads and is in a bad shape also. Both pipes are rotted out and all the baffle plates want remaking. So that is under way.
all 4 baffles have been replaced just the pipe and then re plate the bottom.
Didnt get any photos of that unfortuantly.

Still working on the piston.

Lewis

Many Thanks Lewis

You'll get there Lewis, sounds as if your heading in the right direction and you've been very lucky to find someone with a stock of parts for your engine.

Stu.

Hello
It's been a good day, I have freed the piston up and all look goods. A good few blows the piston soon freed it up.
The 3 top Rings are seized but look good. The oil control ring looks good and is free.
I have honed the bore and all looks okay now. There was slight rusting but this has cleaned up with a good hone.

I also cleaned up the radiator and fuel tank and linseed oiled it. Which has come up lovely.

Does anyone no the weight of this engine.

Lewis

Bore When it was removed from the engine, showing surface rusting to the top edge.





Showing the bore once it has been honed and cleaned.




Piston sorry about the quality it was getting dark when i had finished.





The radiator and fuel tank.




Thank you for all your kind comments and helpful advise.
I now feel like im getting somewhere with the engine.


Many thanks Lewis

Looking great so far mate, I'm still dead jealous though

Thanks, really pleased with the piston being free, I can now see it might run in the near future.

Lewis

Great news, glad you got her out, good progress, shame about the valve seat, but that's all part of the fun, keep plodding and you'll get there bud

Main and little end all seem fine so does the Conrod.

Going to ring tommorrow and see what the engine rebuilder says and hopefully get it over to them tommorrow.
Then it's just clean the sump out and free the rings and put it all back together pressure hose it to clean everything and get it running. Couple of weeks and I hope to have it running.

Lewis

Hughesy wrote: Main and little end all seem fine so does the Conrod.

Going to ring tommorrow and see what the engine rebuilder says and hopefully get it over to them tommorrow.
Then it's just clean the sump out and free the rings and put it all back together pressure hose it to clean everything and get it running. Couple of weeks and I hope to have it running.

Lewis

Great stuff,
keep us posted

Lewis how badly scored is the piston? it looks as if the engine has siezed up to me. Fingers crossed I'm wrong and it's just a poor pic.

Stu.

No scoring to the piston at all , Think its just the photos. I have cleaned the piston up a bit but rain has stopped play. The bore is in good condition and has cleaned up well. Top 3 Rings are seized solid as expected they would be But otherwise I think it was just seized from standing going by the rust around the cylinder and the way the valve had rotted out due to water.
If it had seized during running surely both cylinders would have seized.
Lewis

Went over to the engine rebuilders this morning for a new valve insert. They put the valve insert in for me in an hour. Couldnt believe how quickly it was done.

Valve insert cost me £ 30 Which i thought was very good.








Many Thanks Lewis

£30 and the job's done, sounds like a good deal to me.
Can't wait to see it running, hope you're going to do a video

The first start up shall definatly be recorded.
I'm looking forward to it now.

Lewis

Great news you've managed to sort out the insert and you only paid the labour charge which is good they didn't try and rip you off.

Lewis you'd get just one piston seizing up due to wear, blocked water way next to that piston, maybe over fuelling there's a few reasons why only one piston would seize same as in any multi-cylinder engines. Sounds as if there's nothing to worry about if it's cleaned up ok and it was a poor pic I was looking
at.

Stu.

stationary stu wrote:Great news you've managed to sort out the insert and you only paid the labour charge which is good they didn't try and rip you off.

Lewis you'd get just one piston seizing up due to wear, blocked water way next to that piston, maybe over fuelling there's a few reasons why only one piston would seize same as in any multi-cylinder engines. Sounds as if there's nothing to worry about if it's cleaned up ok and it was a poor pic I was looking
at.

Stu.

basically

Any progress?

At the moment very limited as now back to work so not getting in till 5 and its dark outside by then. I did manage to get one side semi rebuilt.

Sunday I hope to get the piston rings free. Need to order a couple of new rings Aswell.

Lewis

Hughesy wrote:At the moment very limited as now back to work so not getting in till 5 and its dark outside by then. I did manage to get one side semi rebuilt.

Sunday I hope to get the piston rings free. Need to order a couple of new rings Aswell.

Lewis

Try soaking the crown of the piston (the rings basically) in methylated spirit, I'm told it's very good at freeing rings. I just freed off some very stubborn rings on my latest Tarpen thread, Matt86 gave me a tip of tapping gently with a screwdriver or small punch (by hand) on the rings, it helps to drive in the liquid (WD40, meths, GT85, kerosene, whatever you are using) in behind the rings & free them.

It takes a lot of patience, but really does work, you may well end up with useable rings at the end of it. Really it's only impatience that breaks rings, unless they're cracked to begin with or the heat from an engine seize melts the aluminium around them (which takes some doing).

I still remove piston rings using 3 thin slivers of metal. I bought a pair of piston ring pliers, but they are completely useless, waste of £6 that was

I wasn't planning on taking the rings off, the piston caught on a casting and snapped the oil control ring. Needless to say I wasn't happy.

The 3 top compression rings are seized. As you said but gone I have been applying wd40 the like to the rings now for 5 days and giving them a gentle a tap with a spanner or screwdriver. I would like to take the gudgeon pin out a soak it in fluid all the time and then apply a gentle bit of heat. Only problem is the gudgeon pin won't move. My grandad thinks it was cause the piston would have been warmed and the gudgeon pin put in. Making it a tight fit indeed.

Many thanks Lewis

The easiest way I used to fit new pistons was to stand the piston in boiling water for a minute or two then the gudeon pin should move with a very light tap with a hammer as the pistons are alley where as the gudgeon is steel and alley expands quicker then steel allowing you to knock it out. Sometimes it works with steel pistons but not all the time.

Stu.

Try using some heat as well on my fowler they all was stuck and i soaked in a tub with diesel in which was above the height of the piston . and tapped gently with a screwdriver handle etc as slowly they should pop out . Dont rush it or will snap more and be another bill to pay at cox and turner

matt