Turner V Twin Diesel

Don't know if you have seen this?
http://www.wessex-sec.co.uk/2008%20Newsletters/Nov%2008%20p2.pdf
doesn't give any date info but does give a little history, and the bore/stroke measurements are in inches

The measurements are bang on I have rounded them or anything. I have only done it with a tape mind you.

I need to get hold of a measuring gauge. I have found a couple of companies to make valves. Many thanks for your help Andy.

Lewis

Well that answered a few questions, I did wonder if this was a Stuart Turner diesel and it turns out it isn't.
I'm liking those power figures, would be a great back-up generator engine for the house if you could quieten it down enough.
Good luck with the valve search, keep us posted won't you, seems like you've got yourself a very rare engine there

I shall do a full restoration on here for the engine. We are planning to get it running and preserve the original paint with linseed oil.

Then hopefully trolley or trailer mount it. At the moment it's looking like trailer mounted if the right trailer comes up.

If not it may be trolley mounted depending on the weight figures when I get it to a public weigh bridge.


Many thanks Lewis

Hughesy wrote:The measurements are bang on I have rounded them or anything. I have only done it with a tape mind you.

I need to get hold of a measuring gauge. I have found a couple of companies to make valves. Many thanks for your help Andy.

Lewis

Yeah, tape measure isn't the best way with these things, get yourself a vernier, you will probably find the dimensions I gave are the true figures based on the figures you gave, but to be sure (and safe), take the same valve from the other head as a sample for the machinists

Hello all

I have been in touch with cox and turner. They will make a valve for me at a cost of between 25-45 pounds

I have to send my valve up there and yet will make it to suit.

I didn't think that was to bad for making a valve. What do you think.

I will be doing a bit of work on the engine 2morrow if its dry.

Many thanks Lewis

If it were me I'd be happy to pay that, obviously I'd be happier with the lower end of the scale but either way it sounds reasonable to me.

I have just found out that the 4 cylinder engines as fitted to the turner of yeomans tractor may carry the same valve so that has opened my search up a bit but not alot.


Struggling to find a second hand valve.


If i dont find one from now untill the new year i shall be sending the valve off to cox and turner for a new one to be made.


Many Thanks Lewis

Not sure I would send them a valve that has already been machined (IE: the one you've had re-faced), as the dimensions will be different. I would sent the one from the other head.

price sounds as reasonable as you can expect. You might get it cheaper elsewhere, but it would probably cost you just as much in time, effort, phone calls, etc. to find out. So I'd say, if you can't find a replacement, go for it.

nutgone wrote:Not sure I would send them a valve that has already been machined (IE: the one you've had re-faced), as the dimensions will be different. I would sent the one from the other head.

price sounds as reasonable as you can expect. You might get it cheaper elsewhere, but it would probably cost you just as much in time, effort, phone calls, etc. to find out. So I'd say, if you can't find a replacement, go for it.

Shaft will be the same, length the same, face thickness un-altered, and overall valve head circumference will not have changed, only thing that will have changed is the seat depth and maybe the angle of the valve face if it has been machined incorrectly
Trying to remember who we used in the past, but sent them allsorts of mangled crap in the past and a good valve always returned

price is about right, a lot will depend on whether or not they have a blank on the shelf that is suitable or not.

Sounds to be a reasonable price to me in fact I thought it would have been higher so I'd go for it if nothing turns up by the New Year. I know a few says to send the good valve but myself I'd send the old valve with a note to say that you'd tried to get it re-faced so it needs a bit more metal on the face.

Stu.

Well I had a stroke of luck this morning, had a message that there was a gentleman that had cleared out the turner factory of spares.

I have managed to find a valve and all other parts I may need.

The valve cost me £24 posted. I call that a bit of good luck.


Lewis

Hughesy wrote:Well I had a stroke of luck this morning, had a message that there was a gentleman that had cleared out the turner factory of spares.

I have managed to find a valve and all other parts I may need.

The valve cost me £24 posted. I call that a bit of good luck.


Lewis

Well done you, that was a nice christmas present, wasn't it?

Great news Lewis fingers crossed it's the right on.

Stu.

The gentleman knew his stuff and assures me it will be right.

Glad I've managed to find one.

He also has pistons, piston rings, enough spares to build another engine he says.
Off out now to hve a look at the pumps and radiator.



Many thanks Lewis

Glad you got that sorted Lewis, the only other Turner engine I encountered is the ones they fitted in Land Rovers and they were two stroke twins! Not their finest hour.

Pete.

I have cleaned up the petrol tank today and revealed all the original paint work.

i then turned my attention to the radiator all of the pipeworks were block With Scale.
i have flushed all of the radiator and pipework and all looks good with no holes in it.

The diesel pumps where all free and looked okay.


One piston is free but the other one is stuck hard.

I have one question to you all how do i get into the engine to remove the big ends.


There is no inspection plates or anything.


Many Thanks Lewis

Hughesy wrote:I have cleaned up the petrol tank today and revealed all the original paint work.

I hope not

Hughesy wrote:

I have one question to you all how do i get into the engine to remove the big ends.


There is no inspection plates or anything.


Many Thanks Lewis

Looking at the cross sectional drawing here: here you are right, no inspection plates, looks like you have to remove the barrel and the big ends are top nutted, in which case your buggered as by removing the barrel on the other cylinder you still wont be able to get on the furthest nut . only thing you can really do is get as much thin lube as you can in that bore, hard I know as its near tdc. then get a bit of 3x2 and a hammer........

good luck
Andy

i have managed to get the barrels on both sides free from the block and rocking the flywheel lifts the barrels off the bodies. this is how i can see one piston is free.

I have lifted the seized barrel and piston off the body and gave it a few good strikes with a lump of wood and hammer.

I do not want to damage the big end in the mean time.

I shall leave it over the christmas period and gave it a few more good strikes.

Many Thanks Lewis

Hughesy wrote:i have managed to get the barrels on both sides free from the block and rocking the flywheel lifts the barrels off the bodies. this is how i can see one piston is free.

I have lifted the seized barrel and piston off the body and gave it a few good strikes with a lump of wood and hammer.

I do not want to damage the big end in the mean time.

I shall leave it over the christmas period and gave it a few more good strikes.

Many Thanks Lewis

provided the crank isn't dead on tdc or bdc, and the other pot is free, you shouldn't do any damage, as the bulk of any force while its stuck will land squarely on the shoulders of the pistons crown If you lift the other barrel off, are you able to get some kind of squirt up the seized bore?

i should think the crank is dead on top dead centre.

The piston cant go much higher.

Lewis

Hughesy wrote:i should think the crank is dead on top dead centre.

The piston cant go much higher.

Lewis

ok lift the other barrel off, look at the conrod on the seized pot, if it is even slightly off centre your laughing, the fact you are seeing the barrel lift, even a little when you move the flywheel tells me its not quite on tdc, in which case there will be very little resistance at the crank end, all of your initial force will be putt into moving the piston in the bore.

You can also get someone to bar the flywheel in the direction that pulls the seized barrel down to the block, at the same time.

I shall try that,

I have lifted the barrel off the block and was knocking the barrell back down Aswell.

I should be able to lift the barrel and move the opposite piston back down to get it off of tdc.

Lewis

Hughesy wrote:I shall try that,

I have lifted the barrel off the block and was knocking the barrell back down Aswell.

I should be able to lift the barrel and move the opposite piston back down to get it off of tdc.

Lewis

DON'T HIT THE BARREL!!!! Then you will be putting all your force through the big and little end!!!