Starting problem Villiers MK10
+2
matt86
TonyP
6 posters
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Re: Starting problem Villiers MK10
Sounds as if your well on your way to getting your engine sorted, a new air filter will make a big difference if it's clogged up.
Looking forward to hearing how things go.
Stu.
Looking forward to hearing how things go.
Stu.
Guest- Guest
Re: Starting problem Villiers MK10
Those v type carbs are supposed to be great once you have then adjusted correctly i have a mk12 that you can start like the youtube video . if you undo the sparkplug slightly its funny but true
braydh- A true Stationary engine owner
- Posts : 130
Join date : 2012-10-21
Age : 59
Location : West Sussex
Re: Starting problem Villiers MK10
hi tony
the carb is a VILLIERS CM 380 ,FIXED IDLE MIXTURE JET ,the only adjustment is from the bottom of carb when you remove the large deep float chamber nut ,leaving the thin nut and washer in place to hold the float chamer bowl and fuel in while adjusting the main jet by
undoing the brass locknut and with a flat screwdriver turning the outmost brass part that is the needle valve/ jet
screw it in carfully till it stops ,DONT force it ,
then screw it out 2 to 2 1/2 turns out again
that is the starting point on all villiers cm petrol only carbs
when engine is warmed up and with its load on
adjust the needle to the smoothest operation point
idle speed is the springed screw at the top of the carb body that the guvernoir linkage stop hits
screw in for faster or out for slower idle speeds
some have a littlle alloy cup on the outer most side of the above shaft with a springed screw and a stripe of metal going to the alloy cup
if the engine hunts
screw in for a smoother speed output
or screw outwards if the engine eratically speeds up as the guvernor pressure builds and then it pops it round
anything else let me know mate
kev
the carb is a VILLIERS CM 380 ,FIXED IDLE MIXTURE JET ,the only adjustment is from the bottom of carb when you remove the large deep float chamber nut ,leaving the thin nut and washer in place to hold the float chamer bowl and fuel in while adjusting the main jet by
undoing the brass locknut and with a flat screwdriver turning the outmost brass part that is the needle valve/ jet
screw it in carfully till it stops ,DONT force it ,
then screw it out 2 to 2 1/2 turns out again
that is the starting point on all villiers cm petrol only carbs
when engine is warmed up and with its load on
adjust the needle to the smoothest operation point
idle speed is the springed screw at the top of the carb body that the guvernoir linkage stop hits
screw in for faster or out for slower idle speeds
some have a littlle alloy cup on the outer most side of the above shaft with a springed screw and a stripe of metal going to the alloy cup
if the engine hunts
screw in for a smoother speed output
or screw outwards if the engine eratically speeds up as the guvernor pressure builds and then it pops it round
anything else let me know mate
kev
_________________
" IF YOU DONT DO ANYTHING " "" YOU'LL NEVER MAKES MISTAKES ""
kevjhnsn- Life Member
- Posts : 3596
Join date : 2011-02-10
Age : 46
Location : south cheshire
Re: Starting problem Villiers MK10
Hi Kev
Thanks for that info. It's the same as in the user's manual that I've got. I’ve been having loads of trouble keeping it going long enough to make any adjustments but I've discovered a couple of things today.
1) It would keep going when I opened the needle by 4 turns. This seems a bit excessive to me. When it was nice and warm I connected the batteries to the dynamo to put it under full load. (The batteries are already fully charged so they’re not drawing a lot of current.) Then I adjusted the governor link screw so that it was just resting on the leaf spring.
2) Even though I have, by this time, opened the choke, it is still running rich, (slightly smoky exhaust). This is clearly due to the air filter being a bit clogged. So I took it off altogether. Now it’s running better but it doesn’t seem to be quite even. I know it is only a single cylinder engine and I don’t expect it to run like a Rolls but I think it should run a bit smoother than it is.
3) Will it make any difference not having a silencer fitted? I know that some engines need the back pressure. The exhaust fell off a Toyota Corolla I had once; right out in the middle of nowhere. I managed to coax the thing back home in first gear and going very slowly.
I have yet to try starting from cold with these adjustments. Up to now I have had to pour petrol directly into the cylinder through the plug-hole. This is suggested in the user’s manual, which I think is a bit strange. I think I might try taking a bit of video and posting it so that you can have a look and, more importantly, a listen You would know by the sound of it where I’m going wrong, probably. Mind you, posted videos are always iffy and don’t sound good.
Regards
Tony
Thanks for that info. It's the same as in the user's manual that I've got. I’ve been having loads of trouble keeping it going long enough to make any adjustments but I've discovered a couple of things today.
1) It would keep going when I opened the needle by 4 turns. This seems a bit excessive to me. When it was nice and warm I connected the batteries to the dynamo to put it under full load. (The batteries are already fully charged so they’re not drawing a lot of current.) Then I adjusted the governor link screw so that it was just resting on the leaf spring.
2) Even though I have, by this time, opened the choke, it is still running rich, (slightly smoky exhaust). This is clearly due to the air filter being a bit clogged. So I took it off altogether. Now it’s running better but it doesn’t seem to be quite even. I know it is only a single cylinder engine and I don’t expect it to run like a Rolls but I think it should run a bit smoother than it is.
3) Will it make any difference not having a silencer fitted? I know that some engines need the back pressure. The exhaust fell off a Toyota Corolla I had once; right out in the middle of nowhere. I managed to coax the thing back home in first gear and going very slowly.
I have yet to try starting from cold with these adjustments. Up to now I have had to pour petrol directly into the cylinder through the plug-hole. This is suggested in the user’s manual, which I think is a bit strange. I think I might try taking a bit of video and posting it so that you can have a look and, more importantly, a listen You would know by the sound of it where I’m going wrong, probably. Mind you, posted videos are always iffy and don’t sound good.
Regards
Tony
TonyP- Born to be wild
- Posts : 10
Join date : 2012-11-11
Re: Starting problem Villiers MK10
a small amount of back pressure is all the original exhursts added
i have started many a villiers with no exhurst on them so shouldnt be a issue
i find that when not run every day, a bit of petrol in the plug helps these engines pull the fuel up into these villiers carbs,
1).the air filter helps the carbs lift the fuel through the needle jet buy vacum and draft pressure differences, into the air/fuel mixing chamber
so can take 3-5 pulls to get any kind of attempt to fire most times its just easyer to do it this way
2).have you tryed to adjust the spring on the engine block guvernoir lever ,there a 3 holes at the bottom left leg,
these are for different spring loads and also can adjust the top of spring on the block as it should be mounted on a vertical adjusting treaded rod.
3).is the outside of the fuel /float bowl getting wet while engine is running ????
4).are carb diagram numbers 2 and 28 page 23
are these clear through the center pin holes,
i use oxy/actelene nozzle cleaners or a fine needle or stainless wire for this job
as these can cause slight flooding or starvation also
try these and see what happens mate
kev
i have started many a villiers with no exhurst on them so shouldnt be a issue
i find that when not run every day, a bit of petrol in the plug helps these engines pull the fuel up into these villiers carbs,
1).the air filter helps the carbs lift the fuel through the needle jet buy vacum and draft pressure differences, into the air/fuel mixing chamber
so can take 3-5 pulls to get any kind of attempt to fire most times its just easyer to do it this way
2).have you tryed to adjust the spring on the engine block guvernoir lever ,there a 3 holes at the bottom left leg,
these are for different spring loads and also can adjust the top of spring on the block as it should be mounted on a vertical adjusting treaded rod.
3).is the outside of the fuel /float bowl getting wet while engine is running ????
4).are carb diagram numbers 2 and 28 page 23
are these clear through the center pin holes,
i use oxy/actelene nozzle cleaners or a fine needle or stainless wire for this job
as these can cause slight flooding or starvation also
try these and see what happens mate
kev
_________________
" IF YOU DONT DO ANYTHING " "" YOU'LL NEVER MAKES MISTAKES ""
kevjhnsn- Life Member
- Posts : 3596
Join date : 2011-02-10
Age : 46
Location : south cheshire
Re: Starting problem Villiers MK10
Tony I find it sometimes helps to look on You Tube and see how the engine runs on there to check with your own. There may also be a video showing you how to set it up, so worth 15 minutes just to see what's about.
Stu.
Stu.
Guest- Guest
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