Villiers Mk10 sparkplug removal problem

I am just starting to disassemble my recently acquired Mk10 and the sparkplug has become incredibly tight to undo. I have moved it a bit but I don't want to force it in case I strip the thread. I have sprayed some WD40 on it and will leave it for a while. Does anyone have any other suggestions?
In disassembling I have noticed I am also missing a few small parts from the carby/fuel system. But, if it was easy it wouldn't be as much fun!
Greg

Only one suggestion, don't bother with WD40, it is pants!
Either get yourself some GT85 or even better still use some diesel with a little oil mixed in. If that fails you could try applying some heat with a blow torch, concentrate on the area around the plug rather than heating the plug itself.
Good luck.

Greg when things are seized it's difficult to say what's the best way to do it without being hands on, all I can suggest is turn the plug clock wise then anti-clockwise just back n forth and hopefully it should move a little more each time. When removing anything that's rusted it's always better to tighten it a touch first to break the rust seal then try to remove it. As Ian says WD40 is not the best you can use, try diesel or cheap cola that works or try to get something like Plus Gas as this is designed for rusty nuts and bolts where as WD40 is just a general purpose spray.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1311&_nkw=plus+gas&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Or there's plenty of other brands you could try and if you find a good one let us know.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=penetrating+oil&_frs=1

Stu.

Another vote for GT85 here, I've never known anything quite like the stuff, but I only speak for the aerosol cans, I've never tried it in any other form, but it really does seem to work miracles. It's very good for piston rings as well & acts extremely quickly.

Personally I think, if it's an ally head, it may be too late. If it's cast aluminium, corroded & the plug's been put in too tight (a common mistake) then it may well have done it's damage. You can always repair the thread if necessary. It could be widened out to 18mm then sleeved back down, or you can get a Helicoil set for it. So even if you do end up stripping it, it's not the end of the world. (pretty much anything can be repaired, in my book )

I would also try heating the head around the plug, whilst trying not to heat the actual plug itself. This may expand the metal around the plug & help to loosen it off a bit.

Personally I like to use a strong 2 stroke mixture as an easing solution. I find the petrol penetrates & evaporates, leaving the oil in there. But I would still rather use GT85 than any other home made cocktail (& believe me, I've tried many different home made cocktails, leave it to the professionals, I say. It's just the home made stuff's a lot cheaper).
Also, I don't mind WD40, it has it's place & has probably got us all out of trouble in the past. It's just been superseded, that's all.

Good luck & keep us posted.

Have you taken the head off? if the plug thread comes out inside the head it may need to be cleaned off inside before removing.

Thanks for the replies. I tried a product called Triflow which seems to be having an effect. I haven't seen GT85 here but will try a homemade brew of acetone and oil (50:50). The plug is loosening and winds up and down a bit before it gets tight now. I don't think I can remove the engine shroud with the plug in so not able to remove the head and look inside.
Greg

that is correct mate
other than cut a slot from the back of cowling to the sparkplug hole
if the plug does snap off at the treads , as a few have on me
just remove the head clamp it to a flat solid surface and drill slowly out at 10mm drill first ,as centeral as poss to the threads,
then repeat again with a 12mm drill ,buy this point the threads should start to move easy with a little screw driver ,
if it a no :afraid: get a round file in and start filing until you see the first signs of the threads ,stop and file other side the same way
if you get a very small screwdriver inbertwen to top thread and head and lever slowly were you filed to threads it should start to fold inwards,

if still a no go file 1 more as before inbertwen them
then you should have a plug removed and no damage to the threads for the next plug to go in

DONT GET A HACKSAW IN THE PLUG CENTER AND CUT TROUGH you will end up with a leaky plug hole when the engine is running
i have 2x heads here scrap becouse of the hacksaw treatment buy the old owners
kev

Success! Sparkplug removed and with a clean up of threads screws back in very smoothly. And, I have a spark as well. Patience is indeed a virtue with sticky parts. I wasn't so lucky with the muffler face plate. I managed to snap off the bolt but at least I can weld a new one on without much trouble. Now on to the next stage and remove the head. I assume the bolts are whitworth as my AF spanners aren't a close fit? Can someone please confirm?
Greg

whitworth and metric are the most common and the odd AF" spanner on a villiers mate
kev

Greg I've just noticed your from Oz, are there many Villiers engines there or are they a bit rare?

Stu.

Hi Stu,
Heaps of Villiers here. They had a factory in Ballarat, Victoria. I notice my Mk10 has "Made in England" on some of the castings. Not sure if they used english castings or mine is made up from more than one engine.
The nameplate states "makers Villiers Australia, Ballarat, Victoria"
Greg

Thanks for the info Greg sounds as it they may have just shipped the moulds to Oz so they could be cast there.

Stu.

Always interesting to hear these things. I never knew Villiers had a factory in Australia. Dunno if they had any designs specific to their plant, or if it was all the same as our stuff over here.

Oh yes, & welcome to the forum, I never even spotted you were from Australia.