a question and a thought

Hi..
Having got my first d, I noticed the engine oil is horrible. So next time I get it warm I want to drain the oil. Whats the general consensus of opinion on a good non detergent replacement oil ?
And now a thought... There was a huge amount of rust in the coolant tank which got me to wondering why cant I fill the tank with a pre-mixed quantity of water and central heating inhibitor? No need to drain after every run, just top up and no more rust forming. Anybody tried it?
Ian

Hi Ian,

I'm not a plumber and I dropped chemistry after 'O' level (yeah I'm that old) but I'm not sure if Fernox or the like is what you need. Central heating corrosion inhibitors are designed for sealed systems with not much oxygen involved. You might better looking at a motor vehicle radiator additive.

Woodsman wrote:Hi Ian,

I'm not a plumber and I dropped chemistry after 'O' level (yeah I'm that old)  but I'm not sure if Fernox or the like is what you need. Central heating corrosion inhibitors are designed for sealed systems with not much oxygen involved. You might better looking at a motor vehicle radiator additive.

Hi woodsman.
I run a plumbers merchants and fernox or sentinal are good for both open and sealed systems.
Most older heating systems have a header tank which is effectively an open system into which the inhibitor is poured and stops corrosion of both steel radiators and cast iron heat exchanger.
I`m going to experiment...will let you know the results
Ian

Now he tells us he has expert knowledge !!

Well it certainly beat my suggestion of popping a dozen tea bags in the hopper - the tanins did a reasonable job....... a low tech solution - and if you keep your hopper squeeky clean you get a cup of tea for your bother

.........but I would be interested in the fernox/sentinal results.....

IanJ wrote: No need to drain after every run,
Ian

What about frost ?

I'm thinking the addative stops the water freezing - so if no freezing no ice so no frost damage... is that the case Ian?????

Inhibitor stops rust, it doesn't stop freezing so you still need to drain down in frosty weather, if you really can't be bothered to drain it down then don't, simple as that, no point wasting your time and money on MB1, X100, Cera, F1, MC1 or any of the others that are out there as there is no point. IF you really want to protect the inside of the hopper of your D then fill it up with diesel, leave it to soak a bit then drain it out as this will give the casting a good coverage of diesel oil and this alone will protect the insides of the hopper, although to be fair it has been fine for 60+ years with nothing in it, the time you own it it will not come to any harm.

As for oil, some say expensive SAE30, me? I go for what ever is cheapest in the shop and change it regularly.

Hi Ian, Oil, On my engines I always use a straight 30 or 40 grade engine oil. When these engines were built it was the grade of oil that was available. these straight oil are still available from motor factors, Some are sold as `classic` oil.

regards tony

Blimey.. been away for a couple of days and seemed to have started something.
OK ..
StewertH..coffee would be better
Villiers Most inhibitors mix down to 1 to 100 . so its a pretty cheap additive My only thought is that those owners who just use plain water that in 60+years time without any treatment how many engines will have succumbed to casting failure due to rust ?
Tony thanks .just got a gallon of classic sae 30
Rustonmark and stewerTH inhibitor is not a frost protector so drain down in the winter.

[quote="IanJ"]
Villiers  Most inhibitors mix down to 1 to 100 .  [/quote]

Indeed, but like I said you still have to drain down in winter so there really is no major benefits in using inhibitor in an old engine, plus to add to a D that holds so little water you still need to pay for a full bottle, use about a cap full and what do you do with the rest??(Add to your heating I suppose). I also said if you fill it with diesel (Or waste oil for that matter) it will also help prevent rust forming, as will the use of teabags in the engine while running. Inhibitors are good for what they are designed to do, not so sure about in an engine.