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fairbanks headless winter project

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Post by Lewis MacRae Wed Oct 30 2013, 20:15

looks great, why don't you get a outside light?

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Post by matt86 Wed Oct 30 2013, 20:20

Lewis MacRae wrote:looks great, why don't you get a outside light?
I got one on the house but it eats the electric its a halogen one and it stupid to run .

Plus im a pressure lamp fanatic Laughing Laughing 

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Post by matt86 Thu Oct 31 2013, 22:42

done another coat on the engine block earlier today . That be 2 coats on underside , so think should leave a couple of days before flip it back over ?? but only did one on the base where it will sit on due to not being able to see it so should be ok to sit on it by sat .

then can give the topside a coat , starting to look nice when you get some paint on it ..... even though its the 1st part lol !

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Post by Appletop Thu Oct 31 2013, 22:59

Should be ok after a couple of day Matt but to be safe I think I would cut a couple of boards the same size as the "feet" then when you turn it over you could pop a couple of screws in to keep the wood in place and then the base would be free from the deck.
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Post by matt86 Fri Nov 01 2013, 09:34

Good point rob il stick it on a bit of 2x3 or something ..

Im surprised how quick this paint drys and it brushes lovley even with my cheapo brushes from wickes ! While leting it harden i can crack on with the trolley , wheels are ready to be picked up after a cracked boss machined off and a bush been fitted. Got the timbet just needs planing down and then try heatibg and bending handles with mapp gas .

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Post by Appletop Fri Nov 01 2013, 09:47

Cheap brushes are good, I always use cheep brushes, start off using them for paint stripper as the "dabbing" helps sort out the loose bristles then on to primer, finally after a couple of paint jobs they go onto being used for the top coat.
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Post by matt86 Fri Nov 01 2013, 12:30

Villiers wrote:Cheap brushes are good, I always use cheep brushes, start off using them for paint stripper as the "dabbing" helps sort out the loose bristles then on to primer, finally after a couple of paint jobs they go onto being used for the top coat.
exactly ! A well used brush is the best my dad says ... I need to get into habbit if cleaning paint brushed and saving them
..normally i forget there in a jar of white spirit and set !

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Post by Appletop Fri Nov 01 2013, 12:32

That's what happen to mine so I take them out of the jar, lay them over the vice and bash the end with a hammer, then "comb" them out with a wire brush and use them again.
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Post by matt86 Fri Nov 01 2013, 23:08

right i have the axles , axle blocks , axle spacers and wheels sorted . Well the axle is just to give you a idea ... needs to be a bit longer .

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All assembled ...

Axle blocks that i made from 50 x 50 box with a 25mm hole for axle to slide through with ends capped off and 2 holes to bolt axle block to the timbers .

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axle spacers instead on welding washers onto the axle . Just thinwall tube with some spacers like a top hat made a snug fit over the axle and welded on the ends and skimmed off on the lathe .

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Original wheel

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this wheel hub had a chunk missing so it has been faced off and then a bush made like a top hat made while wheel was bored out and bush pressed it to create the boss look once painted you will never know .

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Turned the engine block the right way up now ready to do more painting .... doesnt look too bad i dont think

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Post by Lewis MacRae Fri Nov 01 2013, 23:10

LOL, I thought that your axle blocks in the first pic were wood but then thought that's a very plasticy looking wood!

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Post by matt86 Fri Nov 01 2013, 23:16

Lewis MacRae wrote:LOL, I thought that your axle blocks in the first pic were wood but then thought that's a very plasticy looking wood!
neither there metal box section Lewis lol ....

axle blocks are simple to make , i can even make to order if anyone needs any .

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Post by kevjhnsn Fri Nov 01 2013, 23:58

matt
axles idea as from earlyier conversation looks the job ,well engineered mate,
kev

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Post by matt86 Sat Nov 02 2013, 00:06

kevjhnsn wrote:matt
axles idea as from earlyier conversation  looks the job ,well engineered mate,
kev
I did some of the bits and then my mate did the wheels and the lathework .... too technical for my know how ... we all have our own skills and mine is not machining Laughing 

Im a mechanic and fabricator.

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Post by matt86 Sat Nov 02 2013, 00:07

Oh kev the wheels are in the background that was talking about . ]

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Post by kevjhnsn Sat Nov 02 2013, 02:03

matt86 wrote:Oh kev the wheels are in the background that was talking about . ]

matt
are they bushed centers if so whats the shaft size maximum ish
they look ideal from the pics matt mate

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Post by matt86 Sat Nov 02 2013, 10:13

kevjhnsn wrote:
matt86 wrote:Oh kev the wheels are in the background that was talking about . ]

matt
are they bushed centers if so whats the shaft size maximum ish
they look ideal from the pics matt mate

kev
mine have been bushed ... yours are not just the standard wheel hub around 17 mm , but can be drilled out .

matt

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Post by kevjhnsn Sat Nov 02 2013, 13:03

matt
thats fine 17mm x2 black bar axles with 180lbs on will be still stronger than needed matt
kev

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Post by matt86 Sat Nov 02 2013, 13:19

kevjhnsn wrote:matt
thats fine 17mm x2 black bar axles with  180lbs on will be still stronger than needed matt
kev
Kev its a rough 17 mm mate as my vernier run out of batteries so used a ruler .

I have send phillip a message mate .

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Post by matt86 Sat Nov 02 2013, 21:04

1st coat of green on the top of hopper and i have to say that covered well didnt it ???

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Post by Lewis MacRae Sat Nov 02 2013, 21:06

ye, much better than the paint i'm using on the D. You could see lots of the primer through.

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Post by matt86 Sat Nov 02 2013, 21:11

Lewis MacRae wrote:ye, much better than the paint i'm using on the D. You could see lots of the primer through.
and just look at the shine ... did you flatten red oxide off with some wet and dry with a sanding block so smooth all over like a baby's bottom? I used 600 wet and dry , a little bit more time was worth it .

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Post by Lewis MacRae Sat Nov 02 2013, 21:14

matt86 wrote:
Lewis MacRae wrote:ye, much better than the paint i'm using on the D. You could see lots of the primer through.
and just look at the shine ... did you flatten red oxide off with some wet and dry with a sanding block so smooth all over like a baby's bottom? I used 600 wet and dry , a little bit more time was worth it .

matt
Yip I did but can't paint at the moment as I am having fire issues (again)

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Post by matt86 Sat Nov 02 2013, 21:29

well dont light it lol ... mine is just ambient temperature ... but is insulated with jablite and celotex .

Paintwise its craftmaster paint .

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Post by kevjhnsn Sun Nov 03 2013, 00:45

temp and moisture after the first hour or two nower days seams less crittical for the luster and shine on the finish ,as long as the outside air flow is minimum and shed is dry before hand ,some times cooler conditions helps it to shine as slows the cure rate and flattens far better
5 yrs ago if it looked like rain or damp coming it used to dull and bloome the finish Crying or Very sad 
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Post by Lewis MacRae Sun Nov 03 2013, 18:44

matt86 wrote:well dont light it lol ... mine is just ambient temperature ... but is insulated with jablite and celotex .

Paintwise its craftmaster paint .

matt
Do you have it fitted in yet Matt?

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