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Boulton & Paul

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Post by Lewis MacRae Fri Oct 11 2013, 11:19

Should be alright if you heat up the paint beforehand and have a heater on in the shed?

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Post by Appletop Fri Oct 11 2013, 11:20

I have never had problems painting in winter as long as the AIR is dry.
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Post by Appletop Thu Oct 17 2013, 22:13

Bit more work done tonight, the last of the castings have now all been cleaned up and everything has 1 coat of red oxide, I also had a closer look at where the grease nipples went above the top lay shaft.

Boulton & Paul - Page 3 DSCF1591_zpsb2aee045

This, I reckon is a "home modification" the hole comes out right on a cast ring on the inside of the casing, result in the grease being spread two ways rather than into the bearing but the hole and the bearing are not touching, a photo when it's back in place will show this, should have thought of that but didn't.

I also managed to get a coat of cream on the inside of the crankcase, this is to have red gears in, thinking it should look good with the cover off at a rally, fingers permitting.

Boulton & Paul - Page 3 DSCF1593_zps395d4e79

Another coat of red oxide, then on with the undercoat in the next few days, work/house permitting!!
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Post by Lewis MacRae Fri Oct 18 2013, 17:52

looks good

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Post by Appletop Fri Oct 25 2013, 20:06

I finished up filling the hole that the grease nipples went into, I am sure these were a late add to the pump as the top bearings are oiled by oil being lifted by the gears and spread that way, anyway, managed to get a top coat on tonight, went for "Squirrel Grey" in the end rather than the light green of the Ajax pump or the dark grey that it was when I got it.

Photos a bit naff, new camera, sorry.

Boulton & Paul - Page 3 DSC_0009_zps60a80c6b

Boulton & Paul - Page 3 DSC_0008_zps6084d20b
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Post by Lewis MacRae Fri Oct 25 2013, 20:16

how many coats of the grey are you putting on?

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Post by matt86 Fri Oct 25 2013, 20:46

looks nice rob ....

what sort of undercoat should i use when doing the fairbanks as i have the topcoat now .

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Post by Appletop Fri Oct 25 2013, 20:47

2 or 3, depends how the second coat takes, then onto the woodwork....

I hate woodwork!Crying or Very sad 
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Post by Appletop Fri Oct 25 2013, 20:47

[quote="matt86"]looks nice rob ....

what sort of undercoat should i use when doing the fairbanks as i have the topcoat now .

matt[/quote]
What colour top coat?
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Post by matt86 Fri Oct 25 2013, 21:37

Villiers wrote:
matt86 wrote:looks nice rob ....

what sort of undercoat should i use when doing the fairbanks as i have the topcoat now .

matt
What colour top coat?
green coach emamel and it smells lovley like the coach enamel used to lol ... but not cheap .

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Post by Appletop Fri Oct 25 2013, 22:28

I'd go for a grey undercoat Matt if it was me.
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Post by matt86 Fri Oct 25 2013, 23:25

Villiers wrote:I'd go for a grey undercoat Matt if it was me.
just a normal metal undercoat will do ? as dont want the paint reacting


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Post by Appletop Sat Oct 26 2013, 08:05

If it's oil based paint (Most gloss paints are)then any undercoat will do.

Not so sure about this acrylic stuff though...
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Post by Appletop Thu Oct 31 2013, 23:03

Managed to do a little more tonight, got a new set of valve rubbers cut from a=some 6mm rubber, cleaned up the bolts that hold the covers on over the valves and fitted two of them to see if the felt "right". Also got some cork gaskets cut to go under the valve covers.

Cleaned up the "oil" side piston and pushed the gudgeon pin back in so that is nearly ready to go back in.

No photos as not much to see.
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Post by matt86 Fri Nov 01 2013, 09:36

Villiers wrote:Managed to do a little more tonight, got a new set of valve rubbers cut from a=some 6mm rubber, cleaned up the bolts that hold the covers on over the valves and fitted two of them to see if the felt "right". Also got some cork gaskets cut to go under the valve covers.

Cleaned up the "oil" side piston and pushed the gudgeon pin back in so that is nearly ready to go back in.

No photos as not much to see.
not much more to do surley ?hows the woodwork coming along ?

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Post by Appletop Fri Nov 01 2013, 09:49

Got the wood in the van, need to make the trolley for it, then pipework and final assembly so nope, not a lot left to do.

I hope to start on the woodwork next and leave the paint to harden some more before I put the rest back together.
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Post by matt86 Fri Nov 01 2013, 12:36

Is that softwood ? Leaving it for long to harden ?

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Post by Appletop Fri Nov 01 2013, 12:43

Yes Matt, soft wood, I always use soft wood and never had any problems with it.

Letting the paint harden off before getting the rest of the pump back together.
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Post by Appletop Fri Nov 08 2013, 09:43

Most of the pump is back together now, jist got to touch up a bolt or two, fit the piston, cups and end cover then it's on to the woodwork and pipes.

Boulton & Paul - Page 3 DSCF1603_zps6f045935

Boulton & Paul - Page 3 DSCF1604_zpsa9757c0a

Found a nice big brass tap to go on the outlet pipe so should be nice when polished. I shall be mounting the pump and tank on one trolley for easy set up, have an old fire extinguisher for a tank, should look ok once the top has been cut off and it's had a coat of paint.
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Post by matt86 Fri Nov 08 2013, 10:26

cracking job there Rob .

what sort of trolley ? 4 wheel fixed ...

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Post by Appletop Fri Nov 08 2013, 10:45

4 wheels, no steering as it isn't that big and heave so should be ok. I did think of a 2 wheel barrow job but the problem with that is to have the handles at the light end (Tank end) then the oil piss out of the crankcase, put the handle on the pump end then the oil piss out of the cylinder as there is a return cast into the base from the sump to the front end of the cylinder.
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Post by matt86 Fri Nov 08 2013, 12:36

makes sence to go 4 wheeled then wont be leaking oil out. i hate it when stewart pumps do that down your front !

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Boulton & Paul - Page 3 Empty Boulton & Paul no 1 pump

Post by Albo Wed Sep 14 2022, 15:17

Hello, I realise this is a bit late for the project...but I have just been given a Boulton&Paul no 1 pump to restore from my eldest son. He was pleased to get it as we live close to Norwich...and as it was a Norwich company...it was nice to have an old Norfolk product to work on and get running again. He sent me a sectional diagram of a Myers power pump which looked very similar to him. ..also a photo of a Myers which had been restored. It looks identical to the B&P one to me...even down to the cast in "Pat'd Feb 15 1921" ahead of the crankcase. I don't know if B&P bought them in and plated it as theirs...or if they copied it from castings of a Myers ( there is no manufacturer's cast in like the Myers). Hope this helps

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Post by Appletop Wed Sep 14 2022, 15:22

[quote="Albo"]Hello, I realise this is a bit late for the project...but I have just been given a Boulton&Paul no 1 pump to restore from my eldest son.  He was pleased to get it as we live close to Norwich...and as it was a Norwich company...it was nice to have an old Norfolk product to work on and get running again.  He sent me a sectional diagram of a Myers power pump which looked very similar to him. ..also a photo of a Myers which had been restored. It looks identical to the B&P one to me...even down to the  cast in  "Pat'd Feb 15 1921" ahead of the crankcase. I don't know if B&P bought them in and plated it as theirs...or if they copied it from castings of a Myers ( there is no manufacturer's cast in like the Myers). Hope this helps[/quote]

Yep, that's sort of the information I managed to find back then, I think it's actually an Ajax pump and was bought in by B&P Norwich as a unit and they fitted the badge to it, could be wrong.

Where near Norwich are you? I'm in norfolk too.

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Post by Albo Thu Sep 15 2022, 12:57

I'm near Aylsham. We managed to get it running last night with big smiles all round. Made and replaced pump leathers..inserts and spacer...re packed stuffing box and wiper. Now pumps really well. Now it works properly, my son now has the job of painting and making a trolley for it.

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