Stuck Pulley
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Stuck Pulley
So I've just started on my second Lister D.
The first had a 14" flywheel and gibkey. Managed eventually to get that off.
This one has a smaller diameter pulley on the shaft and a smaller flywheel. (12" maybe?) Think this is more normal actually.
But I can't get the pulley off.
It had a grubscrew, seating down on the key, but this key ends flush with the pulley, which is flush with end of the crankshaft.
I tried my home made gear puller on it, but no joy so far. (home made puller has too coarse a thread on the main screw to get really good pull).
Tried heat, oil, pull, heat etc. Seems stuck
Do I need to get this keyway out first? If so how? There's no end to grip onto.
Any hints?
The first had a 14" flywheel and gibkey. Managed eventually to get that off.
This one has a smaller diameter pulley on the shaft and a smaller flywheel. (12" maybe?) Think this is more normal actually.
But I can't get the pulley off.
It had a grubscrew, seating down on the key, but this key ends flush with the pulley, which is flush with end of the crankshaft.
I tried my home made gear puller on it, but no joy so far. (home made puller has too coarse a thread on the main screw to get really good pull).
Tried heat, oil, pull, heat etc. Seems stuck
Do I need to get this keyway out first? If so how? There's no end to grip onto.
Any hints?
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Geoff
mm5aho- Expert
- Posts : 81
Join date : 2013-02-23
Age : 67
Location : West Lothian
Re: Stuck Pulley
i had this exact same problem with mine, all i could do was to remove the grub screw then get a cold chisel and using the lip ofthe grub srew hole hammer off the pulley. it worked fine and didnt cause much damage to grub screw hole either just a small dent. (the grub screw still winds in ok) then when i took the gib key out for the fly wheel it pushed the flat key out with it.
Carpmanjay- Born to be wild
- Posts : 46
Join date : 2013-03-18
Age : 44
Location : Bures, Suffolk
Re: Stuck Pulley
The key shouldn't be holding the pulley in, as it's only a normal flat key (or at least it should just be a normal flat key with a grub screw, trouble is you never know what someone has jammed in there).
If the key is stuck though, you could drill & tap a small hole into the end of it (like an M3 or M4, I use M3.5 quite a lot as that's what plug sockets & light switches use, & I was an electrician, so have the taps & plenty of screws). You might want to put the grub screw back in though, just in case the key gets pushed back in whilst drilling.
Keys on shafts aren't supposed to take any torsional loading, they are only soft metal & would shear off if they ever had to actually support the pulley on the shaft. By design they are only ever meant to locate the pulley, sprocket, wheel or whatever is on the shaft. Gib keys are a little different as they wedge in there, but they are still not designed to take any loading, the idea being they jam the wheel against the shaft from the opposite side.
So, with your pulley, it being on a parallel shaft (which are the worst to get apart, at least a taper only needs cracking, parallel shafts are often a fight to the death) it could be stuck around the entire contact area with rust. I would say try & get the key moving at least (maybe it will bang in?) Once you know it moves you know it's not causing a problem. Then it's just a case of lots of easing oil. Try to concentrate any heat on the pulley itself & not the shaft. When it's hot try getting some easing oil right in there, from all angles.
What you really need is a good, quite large, 3 legged puller, but is there enough room to get one on?
Got any pics???
If the key is stuck though, you could drill & tap a small hole into the end of it (like an M3 or M4, I use M3.5 quite a lot as that's what plug sockets & light switches use, & I was an electrician, so have the taps & plenty of screws). You might want to put the grub screw back in though, just in case the key gets pushed back in whilst drilling.
Keys on shafts aren't supposed to take any torsional loading, they are only soft metal & would shear off if they ever had to actually support the pulley on the shaft. By design they are only ever meant to locate the pulley, sprocket, wheel or whatever is on the shaft. Gib keys are a little different as they wedge in there, but they are still not designed to take any loading, the idea being they jam the wheel against the shaft from the opposite side.
So, with your pulley, it being on a parallel shaft (which are the worst to get apart, at least a taper only needs cracking, parallel shafts are often a fight to the death) it could be stuck around the entire contact area with rust. I would say try & get the key moving at least (maybe it will bang in?) Once you know it moves you know it's not causing a problem. Then it's just a case of lots of easing oil. Try to concentrate any heat on the pulley itself & not the shaft. When it's hot try getting some easing oil right in there, from all angles.
What you really need is a good, quite large, 3 legged puller, but is there enough room to get one on?
Got any pics???
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The name's Matt, but call me Nutts if you like, there's already enough Matt's about.
nutgone- Life Member
- Posts : 2356
Join date : 2012-07-04
Age : 45
Location : East Sussex
Re: Stuck Pulley
Genuine Lister pulley's tend to break up on their edge when using a puller, though they can be trimmed off afterwards with an angle grinder etc, but I have had reasonable sucess with pouring boiling water over them. However I did have one that refused all efforts and had to be cut off in the end.
Pete.
Pete.
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Foden- Life Member
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