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fumes in hopper ....

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Ianhw77k
pauldg
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matt86
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Post by matt86 Wed Aug 08 2012, 21:40

Ianhw77k wrote:
matt86 wrote:
imagine that having a whole engine lifted on its end let alone trying to move it ... the crankcase is basically the whole engine !


As said i will make a gasket and try it after this weekend .

matt
You can always invert the procedure and place a flat plate on the engine face and rub that around.

I know you probably don't need to do all this, I'm sure your head joint will be fine now but I just thought I'd say Embarassed .
Good luck with it, I'm sure you'll have it sorted in no time Smile

good point Laughing

better get myself a piece of glass i suppose
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Post by matt86 Wed Aug 08 2012, 21:42

nutgone wrote:
matt86 wrote:. I flateening it back a bit with a flat file and already it is alot better .



matt

This worries me a bit, if you're taking a file to a head joint it'll probably never be properly flat again, I've certainly never heard of filing a head joint before.

I know of one trick to keep a head joint flat whilst dressing it though;
you need a completely flat surface, usually a sheet of glass, & you "lap" the head with grinding paste against this surface, that way it should stay flat.

Of course an engineers block & some engineers blue should tell you for sure, but I don't know any home mechanics with these objects to hand. Usually a good steel rule across the diagonals should tell you it's flat.

steel rule and a set of feeler gauges will work to tell you how off true your are ....
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Post by nutgone Wed Aug 08 2012, 22:14

Blimey, I wasn't even thinking about feeler gauges, was just thinking about doing it by eye. Good call.

I reckon you'll be OK with that gasket material though, it's pretty thick stuff. You might even have enough for 2 gaskets, so you get 2 chances at it, Ian had enough for 2 on his Stuart, but we didn't need them (well, we nearly needed them, didn't we Ian??? Wink )

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Post by matt86 Wed Aug 08 2012, 22:28

Thats if you wanted to go mad Laughing

I forgot to say that i can not flat the face off on the cylinder as the liner is proud to the block so have a lip of about 1mm proud ...

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Post by hob Wed Aug 08 2012, 22:36

matt86 wrote:

better get myself a piece of glass i suppose

thick plate glass is best, its flatter.

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Post by Foden Wed Aug 08 2012, 23:12

Some vehicle headgaskets that I have replaced in the past had a line of instant gasket stuff on them, cant recall the make though. What I do know is that both Bedford and David Brown (maybe others) INSISTED that their head gaskets were coated with Wellseal on both sides, great fun getting the old gasket off! Mad

Pete.

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Post by blackvanman Wed Aug 08 2012, 23:15

Matt,
bring a small jar with you to purbeck, I will give you some marmite. Volvo Penta Marine Gasket sealent, this stuff is the best available, it is actualy rebadged locktite aviation sealant. It is made of a special type of tree sapp, any minor excess in the bore will simply burn off, it does not "glue" the gasket and will come off with a little spirit so no scraping. Put it this way, if a repair is performed on a Volvo Penta engine without using it on the head and block faces and studs it will void the warranty. Smile
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Post by billypurves Wed Aug 08 2012, 23:28

Could your fumes be coming from the oil drip pipe?
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Post by matt86 Thu Aug 09 2012, 08:11

billypurves wrote: Could your fumes be coming from the oil drip pipe?

billy i did think of that 1st .... and no as when you have your hand in the hopper the fumes are coming from the front i sealed the pipe with some teflon tape and differently no leak there .

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