My first Lister D

I decided to use 25mm PVC conduit for the spacers and the axle has a 16mm solid bar 450 long inserted through the 20mm steel conduit.

Looking good, trolley has turned out well. I assume you stick with the same axle width to help with loading, using fixed vehicle ramps?

The Paragon spray paint interests me. I've heard of it but I don't know how resilient it is with 10% ethanol petrol. I wondered if you have any experience, or if this is your first use.

Neil.

Hi and thanks Neil
I think the days are gone of being able to spill petrol Willy Nilly. ultra care and funnels are the only way along with spill kit to quickly mop any accidents.

I decided to use the composite head gasket as it's very thick and I believe will cope with surface imperfections better that the copper one. I greased both sides.




Oiled up


Gasket from 3mm rubber sheet








The end is now in sight.

Because of there being no torque settings for the head nuts you will likely see bubbles in the water. It's best to leave the two caps off of the top of the head, run the engine until the engine is warmed through and then re tighten the nuts being aware that you cant tighten to much otherwise you will strip the threads, you need to tighten the nuts in the rocker side as well.

Indeed yes thanks . Using a 1ft 1/2 drive T bar there is a distinct point that each nut feels like its hit bottom and no longer turns. From there it would take a longer bar to cause damage.
So long as there's no water in the Oil

I also managed to obtain some new brass washers of the correct 7/16 ID

I assume you have the thick flat washers under each nut, they should'nt bottom out but its not unusual for the head nuts to bell out at the base thus shortening their length.

Maryalice

A long and productive day in glorious weather.
Kicked off with the remaining gaskets using 0.4mm Flexoid










One of the nuts is actually thinner than the rest but it doesn't matter as long as this one goes on first


Split pin fitted


Bugger bolt fitted for Magneto


Brass plates re fitted.


The magneto fitted with the original 3 shims and a new 44 pin chain.


Roddery re engaged






Wick oiler fitted for governor.

Afternoon shift progressed to the carb and a general clean.


The air valve piston had all sorts of crap added to it as clearly the previous user didn't know how to adjust the spring pressure.

Timing chain cover drying


To end the day I decided to fit the push rods. This is extremely tricky unless you employ a means of holding the rod at length to locate the cam follower.
I used a piece of garden hose.




Then once in place I used a piece of rod to hold the push rod down while removing the hose


All that remains is to set the cold valve clearances to 31 thou

Impressive restoration as always, I hope it ends up running as well as it looks. I imagine you're already looking for your next victim, sorry project!

Neil.

duplicate post deleted

neil (LE) wrote:Impressive restoration as always, I hope it ends up running as well as it looks. I imagine you're already looking for your next victim, sorry project!

Neil.

 Thank you Neil

It's turned out as good as I hoped for, Petrol tank to do yet but I've already set the ignition timing so will soon be finished and setting the carb.
I'm going to further clean the water jacket with some radiator cleaner on the first run then onwards add some oil to the water to keep the rust at bay.
Considering its weight it moves around very easily on the new trolley and not at all difficult to lift either end to change direction.

I've still got the Lister H1 to progress then three other pumps waiting in the wings. I'm about maxed out on space so only a T300 will tempt me to adopt another victim

One other thing
I always take pictures every step of the way to ensure it goes back together the same.
This was useful today when I realised the rockers were not exactly inline with the valves so I checked the early pictures and realised the last muppet had fitted the spacers wrong. The wider spacer must go in the centre.

WRONG

For the first couple of rallys don't put oil in the water, place tea bags in the hopper and leave them, the tanine coat the walls, old steam locomotive trick to help boiler protection.

maryalice wrote:For the first couple of rallys don't put oil in the water, place tea bags in the hopper and leave them, the tanine coat the walls, old steam locomotive trick to help boiler protection.

Interesting thank you

At your rate, that little lot should keep you occupied for at least a couple of months. What will you do after that and the T300, which you will get. Only one solution, you need to create additional space. Move yourself into the workshop and live there, then you can use the house as a workshop and a store to display your collection in, easy!

maryalice wrote:For the first couple of rallys don't put oil in the water, place tea bags in the hopper and leave them, the tanine coat the walls, old steam locomotive trick to help boiler protection.

The tannin (tannic acid) in the tea, and loads of plants, reacts with the rust to form a blue/black ferric tannate coating.  I have also found that when turning green oak my turning tools get a blue/black coating along the cutting edge.

Interesting article here...

https://www.canada.ca/en/conservation-institute/services/conservation-preservation-publications/canadian-conservation-institute-notes/tannic-acid-rusted-iron-artifacts.html

https://www.fertan.co.uk/

Thank you all. I made a post yesterday that then disappeared or I did something wrong.
Previously I forgot to take a look at the needle / jet. Fortunately its not bad.
This is removed by depressing the sprung plunger beneath the dial while unscrewing.




I've initially set the tappets with a strip of 0.25mm pvc that I had handy.


The petrol tank needs a lot of work and I've not yet decided on the most cost effective course to make it good.
Here I've fitted rubber strips to prevent the tank being crushed hard against the body and thus preserving paint finishes. The lower strap fixings should be studs and nuts, I'll change those later.




Finally cleared my tea station! its been abused as a bench lately

neil (LE) wrote:At your rate, that little lot should keep you occupied for at least a couple of months. What will you do after that and the T300, which you will get. Only one solution, you need to create additional space. Move yourself into the workshop and live there, then you can use the house as a workshop and a store to display your collection in, easy!

I've bought a Petter W1H

So the petrol tank was always going to be costly to give it back a long life.
Besides the dents


There were lots of holes


So before using a tank sealant I needed to cover those externally.
Fine glass matt tacked with CA


Then epoxy coated.


This needed a second layer to give back the strength to the bottom.


Today I started with the P38
Needing three applications to get it back to something like.




All the while I've been battering the inside with dry wall screws and Vacking out the loose rust and dust.


Then a final wash with hot water and detergent until the water ran clear. Absolutely suitable after thoroughly drying for application of Petseal Ultra


It's important to drain the surplus before it stops being runny as any thick spots run the risk of crazing during the setting process. That would be fatal.


This must be left at 21 degrees or better for seven days. Failures are always due to not following the instructions.

Whichever set you choose is your choice and I went for the cheap as chips ones from SEP on eBay at £5.50
My hopper has a raised casting number which interferes with the ideal spot but the advice has been over rather than under






I also dug the studs out of my paraffin bucket for the bottom fixings on the tank straps

All looking rather wonderful. I'll be interested to see how the tank repairs hold up to the challenges of the 10% ethanol fuel, hopefully all will be well. So far I've been happy with the similar repair I had to undertake on my Lister D, when I used POR 15 Patch and Seam repair filler.

neil (LE) wrote:All looking rather wonderful. I'll be interested to see how the tank repairs hold up to the challenges of the 10% ethanol fuel, hopefully all will be well. So far I've been happy with the similar repair I had to undertake on my Lister D, when I used POR 15 Patch and Seam repair filler.

Cheers Neil
This is the fourth tank I've repaired this way. Unfortunately its expensive and I've suggested to the seller that smaller quantities of Petseal would be a winner. Three of my Petter tanks are done exactly this way and I don't drain the petrol, none have leaked. However since my introduction to the hobby I now pay the extra for E5 fuel . The 1952 Petter A1 ran 6hrs on well under 4 litres sod the expense

My first job was as a petrol pump attendant. I sold 2 3 4 & 5 star petrol, 4 star was 49p a gallon.......yes a gallon . Can you guess when

Yes, I can take a guess. About the same time as when I was serving and being served beer at 12p a pint in the Sergeants Mess!