Lister Domestic Water Pump Type 187

Good afternoon.
Having now fully restored my Lister D and got her running very sweetly I have managed to acquire - through honest means! - a Lister Pump Type 187.

She's had a hard paper round and since then has been unceremoniously left out in the weather so, to put it mildly, there's work to be done!

This is, I suspect, the first of many questions!

I'm trying to remove the pulley wheel.  The grub screw has come out cleanly after a good oil soak and the pulley wheel won't budge.  It looks as though there might be a tiny gib key in there - photograph attached.  Any advise on this, and it's removal, would be gratefully received.  It took about a month to get the gib key out of the Lister D fly wheel but I did have an edge to work with - this time there seems to be nothing to get any purchase on.

Thanks in anticipation.

Looks like an ordinary key, the pulley should just come off with the use of a puller I think.

Parallel key in this one. As mattblack says just use a puller if you can't persuade it to move.

If there's space behind the pulley I would knock it back enough to unstick it then clean the shaft at the end.

I would just use a puller, the key is parallel and will slide with the pulley, the shaft looks clean and tidy so no need to push it back particularly as it could easily get stuck that way also, a bit of heat would help to release it.

Maryalice

If you can free it by tapping back it should come off without a puller. More useful for those who might not have one

Thanks, as always, for the helpful advice.  I've just found this exploded diagram online which seems to suggest that maybe there is some kind of gib key - see piece labelled 2??  Any further thoughts?
Many thanks.

A gib key has a head for means of extraction and is tapered. Yours is a flat or woodruff key

Thanks Andy. I wondered if it was a gib key (like on my 'D') that had been damaged. Back to your original advice about removal then?

Thanks.

Andywaters wrote:A gib key has a head for means of extraction and is tapered. Yours is a flat or woodruff key

A Woodruff key is 'D' shaped.

Thank you. Apart from the ones that aren't    
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-5-in-x-0-25-in-11-Woodruff-Key/1000364047
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/woodruff-key-clutch-sip-performance-uncle-tom-crankshaft_87059900

I think the correct name would be a rectangular sunk key or parallel sunk key. My bad

Thanks for all your help and advice.  The wheel is now safely off having used PlusGas liberally over a period of time and then a puller helped ease it off.  I do have another question though!  On the attached picture the parts labelled 4 5 and 6 I am having trouble loosening and removing - I'm starting to wonder if I even need to do this.  The nut (part 6) is free and rotating but the screw/bolt fitting labelled 4 simply will not move despite repeated applications of PlusGas.

I'm quite new to all of this and would like to ask what this part does - it looks like some kind of pressure safety valve maybe - and do I need to  remove it to do a full clean up during restoration?

Thanks for all your help so far.

Its to bleed the air out of the chamber.

MaryAlice

I'd leave well alone, there is no point making work and you'll never need to add/remove air from the air chamber....

Thanks for the advice. By the time Appletop had posted I'd managed to remove it. Actually glad I did it's messy but cleaning up nicely. Anyone know remove thread....I've used my gauge measure and although it seems to be 26G there's no BSW equivalent. BSP maybe?

What are Diameter and TPI?

1/8BSP I reckon.

I think 8BSP is spot on.

This pump has a V pulley wheel of 310mm diameter.  I am going to need a V wheel to place next to the fly wheel on the crankshaft of the Lister D.  Does anyone have any thoughts on wheel to wheel ratios please?  Earlier posts here seem to suggest this would be about right: https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/6-Inch-A-Profile-V-Belt-Pulley-For-1.5-Inch-Shaft.html

Vee belt will run fine on the standard D pulley so if it was me I would just run it like that, assuming you have a flat pulley? One thing with a Domestic is they are dependent on direction as the big end has a scoop fitted and if run backwards for any length of time will suffer oil starvation.

Hello again!  The renovation of the pump is going well.  I am going to need to remove the pulley shaft to replace the gasket which is leaking - number 32 on the picture.  I can't see, even on close examination (of the pump and the exploded diagram) what is keeping the bearings in place and thus preventing me from removing the shaft.

Any ideas please?

Many thanks.

If you remove casting 32 the bearing 33 will either come with the casting or stay on the shaft either way the crank shaft will then go out the other way allowing access to the gasket.

Maryalice

Thank you. However, the problem seems to be that something is keeping the bearings on the shaft that I can't see and that is not noted on the exploded diagram either. I definitely need to replace the gasket - number 32. Both castings have been removed and the bearings are accessible. I must be missing something. Surely it's not a case of brute force?

Yep, there is nothing holding the bearings in place, they are just pushed onto the shaft. it might be a case of destroying the bearing to get it off, if they are ok I'd leave them in place.