Rust In Fuel Tank

Hey all, as I was putting in my new fuel tap on my Lister D I had a good look inside my fuel tank and realised there was quite a bit of rust in there! I just was wondering how major this is and if there is anything I should do to fix it. I have put on a new brass filter onto the fuel tap which should hopefully stop the big bits.



Many thanks

put a handful of nuts in the tank along with a couple of pints of water then sit for an hour or so shaking the tank in all directions or strap the tank to a slow rotating device, drain out the fluid and leave to dry.

Maryalice

Electrolysis is the only way I/ve found to clean a tank inside / outside or both and you know it/s clean and gives no more trouble

I have recently made a brand new fuel tank for a Lister A type. Made from new 1 mm steel and soldered up. Have only used E10 fuel in it and the amount of rust inside is just incredible.

Have a look here..

https://ukengineforum.forumotion.com/t8394-rust-removal-using-citric-acid

Gaudin98 wrote:I have recently made a brand new fuel tank for a Lister A type. Made from new 1 mm steel and soldered up. Have only used E10 fuel in it and the amount of rust inside is just incredible.

I'm not surprised really, Ethanol is hygroscopic. Here is a quote about it below. Original S.E. fuel tanks were often made from tinplate, the tinned plating not only helping soldering together but acted as protection to the base metal.

"It’s all down to that double dose of ethanol. Ethanol is hygroscopic: it attracts water and absorbs moisture from the air, causing condensation and, in the long-term, the corrosion of car parts like carburettors, fuel lines and fuel tanks. To compound the problem, ethanol is a solvent, so over time it will damage any component made of plastic, rubber or fibreglass. Modern fuel-injected cars have fuel systems designed to process E10, which has been a fixture in European countries like Germany since 2011. But for historic vehicles, the added ethanol in the blend spells potential damage, especially if you put it into long term car storage without precautions."

i think the date goes back further than 2011 as Renault say my 2003 Kangoo is compliant with E10.
Re tanks of steel, I use copper from Hot water emersion tanks and haven't had any rust issues yet.

Maryalice

I'm using Molasses to de-rust a tank at the moment.

£6 for 5 litres at the local farm animal feed shop, dilute 5 water to 1 mol, and leave for a few weeks.

I've been using the electrolysis method for derusting my latest (Briggs & Stratton!) engine components which I find works well.
The tank for this is in quite good condition but does show some minor rusting internally and am considering using electrolysis for its removal - I will probably have this under way over Christmas, has anyone tried this?

Alan

Alanengine wrote:I've been using the electrolysis method for derusting my latest (Briggs & Stratton!) engine components which I find works well.
The tank for this is in quite good condition but does show some minor rusting internally and am considering using electrolysis for its removal - I will probably have this under way over Christmas, has anyone tried this?

Alan

I use it on tanks and it works fine but of course it removes the paint as well as the rust which isn't an issue if you are repainting anyway.

Pete.

Seemed like a good way of getting to parts that other methods wouldn't. Probably still have to finish off with nuts/washers/stones.

Alan

I have some experience

My Briggs tank wasn't 'quite' that bad but de rusted the internal surfaces using electrolysis which worked fantastic!

Alan

I really must try that!
The Petter A11 will be the first candidate. The tank has a lovely brass screw cap and worth saving if possible. Is there a how to guide Alan?

Thank you.

Best source is the tube, some good examples, but basically involves mixing washing soda crystals with water in a non conductive container. Using an old fashioned battery charger connect the +ve to a submerged sacrificial steel part and the - ve to the part to be de rusted also submerged in the solution.
With the charger turned on the rust will be removed, best allow 48hrs.
I have only used a variable DC power supply where I can control the current up to 10 amp.
My tank photo was taken shortly after it was turned on. I had to turn down my supply as the soda mix contents was getting hot and steaming off!
Normally the mix will stay 'cool'

Alan

I/ve been using Electrolysis for a few years to clean parts and tanks it cleans inside and outside the tank and very good on old cast iron wheels too

Can brass parts be left on what ever is being de-rusted? will this method hurt the brass?

Thanks

Happy to be corrected, but my guess it that brass being more 'noble' than steel in the galvanic series it may be corroded preferentially.

Not sure what could/would occur as I have always removed fittings.
Test piece?

Alan

Alanengine wrote:My Briggs tank wasn't 'quite' that bad but de rusted the internal surfaces using electrolysis which worked fantastic!

Alan

Can you give some indication of the electrical connections doing it this way please?

Negative to the part being de rusted, positive to the sacrificial part.
When I did the tank you see I used a piece of rubber inner tube as an insulator to avoid and short circuits!
Did a JAP tank recently using Jenolite which worked well although once derusted (by any method) further rusting needs to be avoided so in this instance I used a fuel tank sealant, the slosh around and pour out type.

Alan