Another Norman T300
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StuartTurnerSteve
blue cat
Sparkieb
Robotstar5
maryalice
Appletop
Locknut
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Another Norman T300
Villiers MK40 is nearing completion, hopefully before Christmas, so I thought I'd make a start on the Norman
Mine isn't in quite as fine or complete condition as Mark's so I guess his will be finished first
No exhausts, no tank, one broken mounting foot, no head gaskets and filthy.
Damage to flywheel
Chunk out of pulley
Broken mounting lug
Should keep me out of mischief for a while - though it may have to take a back seat for the wood working as Christmas orders are coming in.
Mine isn't in quite as fine or complete condition as Mark's so I guess his will be finished first
No exhausts, no tank, one broken mounting foot, no head gaskets and filthy.
Damage to flywheel
Chunk out of pulley
Broken mounting lug
Should keep me out of mischief for a while - though it may have to take a back seat for the wood working as Christmas orders are coming in.
Last edited by Woodsman on Fri Oct 06 2023, 14:01; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : added pic)
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Re: Another Norman T300
Hi Paul,
That Norman looks like a great project and will certainly keep you out of mischief for a while - good luck with it! By the way it looks like the mag is missing as well.
I have a T300 as well so I will follow this restoration with interest.
Kev.
That Norman looks like a great project and will certainly keep you out of mischief for a while - good luck with it! By the way it looks like the mag is missing as well.
I have a T300 as well so I will follow this restoration with interest.
Kev.
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Re: Another Norman T300
Oh no
Mag and carb' safely tucked away.
Mag and carb' safely tucked away.
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Re: Another Norman T300
Read somewhere about chip prone flywheels on the Norman. Might do a bit today bores are getting a light hone
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Re: Another Norman T300
Villiers V engine & MK40 now ready to go to market (a year late!) so time to get started on the Norman.
I believe I posted this question on Fozzers but no doubt someone will be able to help. Ignition timing marks are on flywheel and flywheel is keyed so difficult to get that wrong but how do I determine the right way to fit the magneto? Presumably I can only get it 180 degrees out but it would be nice to get it right first time.
EDIT
I think I may have answered my own question
Remove one HT connector and watch the slip ring go round?
I believe I posted this question on Fozzers but no doubt someone will be able to help. Ignition timing marks are on flywheel and flywheel is keyed so difficult to get that wrong but how do I determine the right way to fit the magneto? Presumably I can only get it 180 degrees out but it would be nice to get it right first time.
EDIT
I think I may have answered my own question
Remove one HT connector and watch the slip ring go round?
Last edited by Woodsman on Wed Jan 15 2020, 17:06; edited 1 time in total
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Re: Another Norman T300
Next question - I can see a gap between the carburettor float bowl and body. Should it have a gasket?
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Re: Another Norman T300
[quote="Woodsman"]Next question - I can see a gap between the carburettor float bowl and body. Should it have a gasket?[/quote]
Assuming it's a Solex there is no gasket, you need to find what surface has warped and file it flat again...
Assuming it's a Solex there is no gasket, you need to find what surface has warped and file it flat again...
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Re: Another Norman T300
Villiers wrote: Assuming it's a Solex there is no gasket, you need to find what surface has warped and file it flat again...
Correct - Solex. Will have a butchers tomorrow. Thanks.
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Re: Another Norman T300
Will go have a peek at mine brb
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Re: Another Norman T300
Why are the gaskets deaf
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Re: Another Norman T300
maryalice wrote:Why are the gaskets deaf
Didn't hear that one coming
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Stuart
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Re: Another Norman T300
Hi All, Puzzled of Pontefract here
Still struggling. Here is the method I used.
Remove magneto and watch RH cylinder valves whilst rotating flywheel. When both valves closed continue rotating until IGN mark on flywheel is aligned with arrow on magneto drive housing.
Rotate magneto until brass slip ring in showing under RH HT Connector.
Continue turning until holes in magneto fibre coupling align with drive pegs.
Slide magneto back on and tighten bolts
Check contact breaker gap - 12 thou
The problem is the contact breaker opens way too early.
Further info:
Serial No on engine has TE prefix - which I believe indicates a MK1, My flywheel is located by a key - MK2 ?
Anyway I checked flywheel again and it is indeed keyed, but the shaft is tapered and the nut operates Villiers style.
Magneto drive looks like it's never been off - paint intact and nuts wired on.
Contact breaker has a feather key to locate in armature shaft - no room for error.
Cam ring is located by slot engaging a peg in the body - no room for error.
But watching closely I see the points open almost as soon as the cam starts to hit the high sides of the cam ring.
I can't see any provision for making fine adjustments, in fact the manual states "The magneto is fitted with fixed ignition..."
If I'm being a complete numpty please be gentle.
Woodsman wrote: I think I may have answered my own question Remove one HT connector and watch the slip ring go round?
Still struggling. Here is the method I used.
Remove magneto and watch RH cylinder valves whilst rotating flywheel. When both valves closed continue rotating until IGN mark on flywheel is aligned with arrow on magneto drive housing.
Rotate magneto until brass slip ring in showing under RH HT Connector.
Continue turning until holes in magneto fibre coupling align with drive pegs.
Slide magneto back on and tighten bolts
Check contact breaker gap - 12 thou
The problem is the contact breaker opens way too early.
Further info:
Serial No on engine has TE prefix - which I believe indicates a MK1, My flywheel is located by a key - MK2 ?
Anyway I checked flywheel again and it is indeed keyed, but the shaft is tapered and the nut operates Villiers style.
Magneto drive looks like it's never been off - paint intact and nuts wired on.
Contact breaker has a feather key to locate in armature shaft - no room for error.
Cam ring is located by slot engaging a peg in the body - no room for error.
But watching closely I see the points open almost as soon as the cam starts to hit the high sides of the cam ring.
I can't see any provision for making fine adjustments, in fact the manual states "The magneto is fitted with fixed ignition..."
If I'm being a complete numpty please be gentle.
Last edited by Woodsman on Sun Jan 19 2020, 09:49; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : typo)
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Re: Another Norman T300
Yes fine adjustment made by rotating the outer hardened ring, its gripped by a screw if i remember correctly, had my magneto on and off numerous times until i got it close.
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Re: Another Norman T300
Sparkieb wrote:Yes fine adjustment made by rotating the outer hardened ring, its gripped by a screw if i remember correctly, had my magneto on and off numerous times until i got it close.
I refer the honourable gentleman to my previous statement. "Cam ring is located by slot engaging a peg in the body"
And the body is on the right way round.
Looking closely again, the points start to open when the inlet valve has only just closed - so no compression and appears to be ninety degrees out. But if I was to rotate the cam ring body through ninety degrees then IGN point would find the heel of the contact breaker at a low spot on the cam ring.
Any advice gratefully received.
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Re: Another Norman T300
Im trying to remember exactly how i got it close, i think it was by loosening the tapered drive and leaving it just loose enough that i could turn it when refitted then got points/cam where i wanted, then pulled magneto back off and tightened drive without moving anything. If im completely on the wrong track forgive me as it was a while ago and i remember it driving me nuts. Cheers Mark
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Re: Another Norman T300
Hi Mark - remember flywheel is keyed to crankshaft ans valve timing looks spot on.
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Re: Another Norman T300
No the tapered drive on the magneto
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Re: Another Norman T300
Sparkieb wrote:No the tapered drive on the magneto
Hi Mark,
You've lost me - which tapered drive?
The end that is driven from the camshaft just has two pegs that locate in fibre coupling. Contact breaker is keyed to armature.
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Re: Another Norman T300
The two peg drive should have a centre bolt, its on a taper which is what made timing mine really difficult as i had dismantled it. So i loosened the drive on its taper so i could set the points once i had the engine timing set right and on the right cylinder (it drove me nuts)
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Re: Another Norman T300
The magneto drive shaft nut is accessed under the little cover on the rear of the engine just above the flywheel. Loosen it and then tap it, the shaft should then come away from the taper as sparkieb describes. However, if nothing has been disturbed as you describe, then it is not normal to make this adjustment. That's why it is not described in any of the handbooks .....
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blue cat
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Re: Another Norman T300
Hi Blue Cat,
My thoughts entirely and, unless I'm much mistaken it's not been disturbed. Magnifying glass out later.
My thoughts entirely and, unless I'm much mistaken it's not been disturbed. Magnifying glass out later.
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Re: Another Norman T300
Ok, so I took off the little cover...
.. don't think that's been disturbed. Back to square one, take everything off and rinse and repeat,
Just to muddy waters, I was rummaging about in the bag of bits that came with the engine and re-discovered this spare magneto drive that is keyed. I think I may be losing the plot!
.. don't think that's been disturbed. Back to square one, take everything off and rinse and repeat,
Just to muddy waters, I was rummaging about in the bag of bits that came with the engine and re-discovered this spare magneto drive that is keyed. I think I may be losing the plot!
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Re: Another Norman T300
Oooh i never took that nut off, i loosened the one on the magneto itself so i could turn from the points end then remove the magneto and nip it back up.
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