My first Lister D
+4
mattblack
maryalice
neil (LE)
Andywaters
8 posters
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Re: My first Lister D
I decided to use 25mm PVC conduit for the spacers and the axle has a 16mm solid bar 450 long inserted through the 20mm steel conduit.
Andywaters- Life Member
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Age : 66
Re: My first Lister D
Looking good, trolley has turned out well. I assume you stick with the same axle width to help with loading, using fixed vehicle ramps?
The Paragon spray paint interests me. I've heard of it but I don't know how resilient it is with 10% ethanol petrol. I wondered if you have any experience, or if this is your first use.
Neil.
The Paragon spray paint interests me. I've heard of it but I don't know how resilient it is with 10% ethanol petrol. I wondered if you have any experience, or if this is your first use.
Neil.
neil (LE)- A credit to the forum
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Re: My first Lister D
Hi and thanks Neil
I think the days are gone of being able to spill petrol Willy Nilly. ultra care and funnels are the only way along with spill kit to quickly mop any accidents.
I think the days are gone of being able to spill petrol Willy Nilly. ultra care and funnels are the only way along with spill kit to quickly mop any accidents.
Andywaters- Life Member
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Re: My first Lister D
I decided to use the composite head gasket as it's very thick and I believe will cope with surface imperfections better that the copper one. I greased both sides.
Oiled up
Gasket from 3mm rubber sheet
The end is now in sight.
Oiled up
Gasket from 3mm rubber sheet
The end is now in sight.
Andywaters- Life Member
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Re: My first Lister D
Because of there being no torque settings for the head nuts you will likely see bubbles in the water. It's best to leave the two caps off of the top of the head, run the engine until the engine is warmed through and then re tighten the nuts being aware that you cant tighten to much otherwise you will strip the threads, you need to tighten the nuts in the rocker side as well.
maryalice- Life Member
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Re: My first Lister D
Indeed yes thanks . Using a 1ft 1/2 drive T bar there is a distinct point that each nut feels like its hit bottom and no longer turns. From there it would take a longer bar to cause damage.
So long as there's no water in the Oil
I also managed to obtain some new brass washers of the correct 7/16 ID
So long as there's no water in the Oil
I also managed to obtain some new brass washers of the correct 7/16 ID
Andywaters- Life Member
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Re: My first Lister D
I assume you have the thick flat washers under each nut, they should'nt bottom out but its not unusual for the head nuts to bell out at the base thus shortening their length.
Maryalice
Maryalice
maryalice- Life Member
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Re: My first Lister D
A long and productive day in glorious weather.
Kicked off with the remaining gaskets using 0.4mm Flexoid
One of the nuts is actually thinner than the rest but it doesn't matter as long as this one goes on first
Split pin fitted
Bugger bolt fitted for Magneto
Brass plates re fitted.
The magneto fitted with the original 3 shims and a new 44 pin chain.
Roddery re engaged
Wick oiler fitted for governor.
Kicked off with the remaining gaskets using 0.4mm Flexoid
One of the nuts is actually thinner than the rest but it doesn't matter as long as this one goes on first
Split pin fitted
Bugger bolt fitted for Magneto
Brass plates re fitted.
The magneto fitted with the original 3 shims and a new 44 pin chain.
Roddery re engaged
Wick oiler fitted for governor.
Andywaters- Life Member
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Re: My first Lister D
Afternoon shift progressed to the carb and a general clean.
The air valve piston had all sorts of crap added to it as clearly the previous user didn't know how to adjust the spring pressure.
The air valve piston had all sorts of crap added to it as clearly the previous user didn't know how to adjust the spring pressure.
Andywaters- Life Member
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Re: My first Lister D
Timing chain cover drying
To end the day I decided to fit the push rods. This is extremely tricky unless you employ a means of holding the rod at length to locate the cam follower.
I used a piece of garden hose.
Then once in place I used a piece of rod to hold the push rod down while removing the hose
All that remains is to set the cold valve clearances to 31 thou
To end the day I decided to fit the push rods. This is extremely tricky unless you employ a means of holding the rod at length to locate the cam follower.
I used a piece of garden hose.
Then once in place I used a piece of rod to hold the push rod down while removing the hose
All that remains is to set the cold valve clearances to 31 thou
Andywaters- Life Member
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Re: My first Lister D
Impressive restoration as always, I hope it ends up running as well as it looks. I imagine you're already looking for your next victim, sorry project!
Neil.
Neil.
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Re: My first Lister D
duplicate post deleted
Last edited by Andywaters on Mon Nov 28 2022, 16:48; edited 1 time in total
Andywaters- Life Member
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Re: My first Lister D
neil (LE) wrote:Impressive restoration as always, I hope it ends up running as well as it looks. I imagine you're already looking for your next victim, sorry project!
Neil.
Thank you Neil
It's turned out as good as I hoped for, Petrol tank to do yet but I've already set the ignition timing so will soon be finished and setting the carb.
I'm going to further clean the water jacket with some radiator cleaner on the first run then onwards add some oil to the water to keep the rust at bay.
Considering its weight it moves around very easily on the new trolley and not at all difficult to lift either end to change direction.
I've still got the Lister H1 to progress then three other pumps waiting in the wings. I'm about maxed out on space so only a T300 will tempt me to adopt another victim
One other thing
I always take pictures every step of the way to ensure it goes back together the same.
This was useful today when I realised the rockers were not exactly inline with the valves so I checked the early pictures and realised the last muppet had fitted the spacers wrong. The wider spacer must go in the centre.
WRONG
Andywaters- Life Member
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Re: My first Lister D
For the first couple of rallys don't put oil in the water, place tea bags in the hopper and leave them, the tanine coat the walls, old steam locomotive trick to help boiler protection.
maryalice- Life Member
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Re: My first Lister D
Interesting thank youmaryalice wrote:For the first couple of rallys don't put oil in the water, place tea bags in the hopper and leave them, the tanine coat the walls, old steam locomotive trick to help boiler protection.
Andywaters- Life Member
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Re: My first Lister D
At your rate, that little lot should keep you occupied for at least a couple of months. What will you do after that and the T300, which you will get. Only one solution, you need to create additional space. Move yourself into the workshop and live there, then you can use the house as a workshop and a store to display your collection in, easy!
neil (LE)- A credit to the forum
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Re: My first Lister D
maryalice wrote:For the first couple of rallys don't put oil in the water, place tea bags in the hopper and leave them, the tanine coat the walls, old steam locomotive trick to help boiler protection.
The tannin (tannic acid) in the tea, and loads of plants, reacts with the rust to form a blue/black ferric tannate coating. I have also found that when turning green oak my turning tools get a blue/black coating along the cutting edge.
Interesting article here...
https://www.canada.ca/en/conservation-institute/services/conservation-preservation-publications/canadian-conservation-institute-notes/tannic-acid-rusted-iron-artifacts.html
_________________
Regards Paul
Tha can alus tell a Yorkshireman - but tha can't tell him much.
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mattblack- Life Member
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Re: My first Lister D
Thank you all. I made a post yesterday that then disappeared or I did something wrong.
Previously I forgot to take a look at the needle / jet. Fortunately its not bad.
This is removed by depressing the sprung plunger beneath the dial while unscrewing.
I've initially set the tappets with a strip of 0.25mm pvc that I had handy.
The petrol tank needs a lot of work and I've not yet decided on the most cost effective course to make it good.
Here I've fitted rubber strips to prevent the tank being crushed hard against the body and thus preserving paint finishes. The lower strap fixings should be studs and nuts, I'll change those later.
Finally cleared my tea station! its been abused as a bench lately
Previously I forgot to take a look at the needle / jet. Fortunately its not bad.
This is removed by depressing the sprung plunger beneath the dial while unscrewing.
I've initially set the tappets with a strip of 0.25mm pvc that I had handy.
The petrol tank needs a lot of work and I've not yet decided on the most cost effective course to make it good.
Here I've fitted rubber strips to prevent the tank being crushed hard against the body and thus preserving paint finishes. The lower strap fixings should be studs and nuts, I'll change those later.
Finally cleared my tea station! its been abused as a bench lately
Andywaters- Life Member
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Re: My first Lister D
neil (LE) wrote:At your rate, that little lot should keep you occupied for at least a couple of months. What will you do after that and the T300, which you will get. Only one solution, you need to create additional space. Move yourself into the workshop and live there, then you can use the house as a workshop and a store to display your collection in, easy!
I've bought a Petter W1H
Andywaters- Life Member
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Age : 66
Petrol tank repair and PETSEAL Ultra
So the petrol tank was always going to be costly to give it back a long life.
Besides the dents
There were lots of holes
So before using a tank sealant I needed to cover those externally.
Fine glass matt tacked with CA
Then epoxy coated.
This needed a second layer to give back the strength to the bottom.
Today I started with the P38
Needing three applications to get it back to something like.
All the while I've been battering the inside with dry wall screws and Vacking out the loose rust and dust.
Then a final wash with hot water and detergent until the water ran clear. Absolutely suitable after thoroughly drying for application of Petseal Ultra
It's important to drain the surplus before it stops being runny as any thick spots run the risk of crazing during the setting process. That would be fatal.
This must be left at 21 degrees or better for seven days. Failures are always due to not following the instructions.
Besides the dents
There were lots of holes
So before using a tank sealant I needed to cover those externally.
Fine glass matt tacked with CA
Then epoxy coated.
This needed a second layer to give back the strength to the bottom.
Today I started with the P38
Needing three applications to get it back to something like.
All the while I've been battering the inside with dry wall screws and Vacking out the loose rust and dust.
Then a final wash with hot water and detergent until the water ran clear. Absolutely suitable after thoroughly drying for application of Petseal Ultra
It's important to drain the surplus before it stops being runny as any thick spots run the risk of crazing during the setting process. That would be fatal.
This must be left at 21 degrees or better for seven days. Failures are always due to not following the instructions.
Andywaters- Life Member
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Age : 66
Waterslide transfer day
Whichever set you choose is your choice and I went for the cheap as chips ones from SEP on eBay at £5.50
My hopper has a raised casting number which interferes with the ideal spot but the advice has been over rather than under
I also dug the studs out of my paraffin bucket for the bottom fixings on the tank straps
My hopper has a raised casting number which interferes with the ideal spot but the advice has been over rather than under
I also dug the studs out of my paraffin bucket for the bottom fixings on the tank straps
Andywaters- Life Member
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Age : 66
Re: My first Lister D
All looking rather wonderful. I'll be interested to see how the tank repairs hold up to the challenges of the 10% ethanol fuel, hopefully all will be well. So far I've been happy with the similar repair I had to undertake on my Lister D, when I used POR 15 Patch and Seam repair filler.
neil (LE)- A credit to the forum
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Re: My first Lister D
neil (LE) wrote:All looking rather wonderful. I'll be interested to see how the tank repairs hold up to the challenges of the 10% ethanol fuel, hopefully all will be well. So far I've been happy with the similar repair I had to undertake on my Lister D, when I used POR 15 Patch and Seam repair filler.
Cheers Neil
This is the fourth tank I've repaired this way. Unfortunately its expensive and I've suggested to the seller that smaller quantities of Petseal would be a winner. Three of my Petter tanks are done exactly this way and I don't drain the petrol, none have leaked. However since my introduction to the hobby I now pay the extra for E5 fuel . The 1952 Petter A1 ran 6hrs on well under 4 litres sod the expense
My first job was as a petrol pump attendant. I sold 2 3 4 & 5 star petrol, 4 star was 49p a gallon.......yes a gallon . Can you guess when
Andywaters- Life Member
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Re: My first Lister D
Yes, I can take a guess. About the same time as when I was serving and being served beer at 12p a pint in the Sergeants Mess!
neil (LE)- A credit to the forum
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