My first Lister D

neil (LE) wrote:Yes, I can take a guess. About the same time as when I was serving and being served beer at 12p a pint in the Sergeants Mess!

I wasn't drinking then at 16 but add a couple of years and I guess a pint of Tetleys was about 16p on the highstreet.
1974
2 star came in as 5 star was going out the door.

When I've restored my Listers, in their working clothes, I have made my own tanks, I take an old emersion tank and flatten the copper sheet, my Lister A had a round tank as did my L type, I taught myself metal spinning to make the ends. Just over three years ago I took two D tank ends to a laser cutting company and had steel formers cut so that I can now make the D tank ends, Blue Cat obtained the lathe tooling to make the cap and body of the brass fillers for early D's and very kindly passed it to me, my initial tank roller was a modified washing roller but I've since bought, four years ago, a three in one guillotine, roller and bender. I solder all my joints using soldering irons with copper heads that needs a blowlamp to heat them up.
Maryalice

maryalice wrote:When I've restored my Listers, in their working clothes, I have made my own tanks, I take an old emersion tank and flatten the copper sheet, my Lister A had a round tank as did my L type, I taught myself metal spinning to make the ends. Just over three years ago I took two D tank ends to a laser cutting company and had steel formers cut so that I can now make the D tank ends, Blue Cat obtained the lathe tooling to make the cap and body of the brass fillers for early D's and very kindly passed it to me, my initial tank roller was a modified washing roller but I've since bought, four years ago, a three in one guillotine, roller and bender. I solder all my joints using soldering irons with copper heads that needs a blowlamp to heat them up.
Maryalice

Love it

FYI this is what happens to the surplus resin. It's not designed to be thick or allowed to pool and the heat will make it break up. There is probably enough to do at least 4 tanks this size but they so far do not do smaller mixes.




There are people on Facebook who simply say Petseal is crap but I doubt they followed the instruction process and took shortcuts. The Ultra was designed in response to ethanol and my first three tanks are fine one of which has been sat with E10 in it since last year.

So I have to wait the full 7 days keeping the temperature above 21C
Here you can see the relative thinness of my curing resin. Completely dry of course but still no shortcuts.


So rather than waste this time until Thursday it dawned on me that I can paint two sides per day

Andywaters wrote:
I wasn't drinking then at 16 but add a couple of years and I guess a pint of Tetleys was about 16p on the highstreet.
1974  

I remember a heated discussion in the snug to the effect that - 'If a pint hits 25p, I'm stopping drinking'

Productive session but a new air valve spring is required and the silencer is fubard inside so doesn't do the job. Head gasket is all good and 2 Yorkshire tea bags emptied into the hopper

The hobby overflow facility is now in full swing.
From this

To this

12'x 6'6"

Engine looks and sounds lovely, nice job!

Why do you think it needs a new spring in the Carb

Looking and sounding good, especially if you end up playing all the videos simultaneously! No such thing as an overflow area, it will become a long term storage bay, you know it will.

Neil.

Thank you all
The air valve spring had been bodged by the previous keepers by adding items to the shaft that effectively put it under more compression, the reverse of what is required. Unfortunately because of the deformation the spring does not behave with the correct delicacy, my friend has a spare one for me.

A certain amount of tension is required otherwise it will suck to much air.

EDITED
I just acquired this LISTER Junior silencer that is 1 1/4 BSP this will be married to a brass reducer and complement my stainless steel pipe perfectly.
I should receive it this week and I've now got the new air valve spring and throttle adjustment hook. Still waiting for re engineered Gib keys from SEP then its a runner again



May as well throw the shed progress in too. Much faster progress than envisioned.

Not wishing to be picky but this is a video of a Petter Junior with its cast iron exhaust at the back of it https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Petter+Junior&view=detail&mid=1707CC16D3E8BDB21E961707CC16D3E8BDB21E96&FORM=VIRE

Lister Junior most like.

Maryalice

maryalice wrote:Not wishing to be picky but this is a video of a Petter Junior with its cast iron exhaust at the back of it https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Petter+Junior&view=detail&mid=1707CC16D3E8BDB21E961707CC16D3E8BDB21E96&FORM=VIRE

Lister Junior most like.

Maryalice

Correct that's what I meant especially as it is pressed into the steel

Reducer arrived first.
The stainless steel pipe can be found for £8.95 on eBay inc delivery

Pleased with it after a clean and paint.

Now that's very tidy! Excellent job.

Alan

Thanks Alan I was lucky to get it for £35 delivered plus the brass reducer of course

I'm in Pedant mode again, the Lister A and Lister Junior are one and the same.

Maryalice

ok thanks

There’s what looks like a bargain on eBay but too far for me
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125472121804?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=0zP0bDRFSzu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=YQrWHqHZRqa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The gib key is now sorted this morning. You might notice in the last video it was grossly long. SEP sent me new ones but now rather than under size they are easily 1mm oversize so it’s taken some time to dress it.
Better looking at it than for it

Final job today was to check the valve gear is actually getting some oil which it is and I still wonder why there was a pair of knickers in there when I acquired it.

All the head bolts have been re checked and there's no water in the oil or visa versa but the Yorkshire tea leaves are still in



After my holiday the carb will come off for a treatment of dilute Linseed oil. I like the naked look of the carb body so don't want it going rusty.
I'll also fit the new air valve spring.
The petrol tap still weeps but I'm not going to pay nearly £40 for a replacement, I'll just drain the tank when not going to run.

£40!!!

I had that type of tap on my MK20, I tried lapping it in but it still wept. I replaced it with an Ewarts push-pull one.