Lister D run up without fuel tank

Apologies for posting so many questions - lock down has given me more time!

My Lister D may be in better condition than at first thought: I even have a spark from the magneto before I've changed the condenser and points!

I'm going to change the oil over the weekend then I'd like to see if she'll fire up. I don't want to refit the fuel tank yet as I am not ready for that. I'm pretty sure that I read you can fill the float chamber with enough fuel for a couple of minutes running under such circumstances.
Any thoughts/advice please most gratefully received.

Yes you can, just leave the fuel pipe attached otherwise as the level drops and the float sinks it will open the needle and whatever is left in the bowl will p155 on the floor....

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately I cannot remove the top of the float chamber as it is seized and I don't want to get grips on it. Any thoughts on this one please?

Have you undone the clamp screw on the top, dead oposite the tickler.

Maryalice

maryalice wrote:Have you undone the clamp screw on the top, dead oposite the tickler.

Maryalice

I assume you mean the small hex bolt head on the rim rather than the large one in the middle?
Apologies, this is a steep learning curve for me. I am clinging on though, just!

Thanks again.

yes

ajcooper4 wrote:Apologies for posting so many questions ....

No apologies necessary! That's what this forum is all about.

If you don't ask you wont know, keep asking,

Maryalice

Thank you! Clamp screw is undone but the top of the float chamber still won't screw off.

soak top thread in penetrating fluid then after a while wrap a rag around the top and using a pipe wrench unscrew the top, unless its welded on it wont be that tight.

Maryalice

Thank you. I've tried WD40 but not loosening so far. It definitely doesn't look like ti's been welded on. Now that would be a nightmare!

How about this stuff: https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-penetrating-lubricating-oil-750ml/19320

the welded on bit was a joke, WD 40 is a Water Dispersant, it is not penetrating fluid, have you a hair dryer, warm the body and top on high heat to make it expand and contract, do not use a gas torch because if your not careful it will become a puddle of very hot liquid.


Maryalice

ajcooper4 wrote:Thank you.  I've tried WD40 but not loosening so far.  It definitely doesn't look like ti's been welded on.  Now that would be a nightmare!

How about this stuff: https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-penetrating-lubricating-oil-750ml/19320

You need proper penetrating fluid such as Plusgas

https://www.amazon.co.uk/English-Abrasives-809-10-Plusgas-250ml/dp/B0001P02S4/ref=pd_lpo_60_t_2/262-9770477-6837453?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0001P02S4&pd_rd_r=80603daf-7a57-419f-89db-a6b931813868&pd_rd_w=bCS42&pd_rd_wg=IXrI1&pf_rd_p=7b8e3b03-1439-4489-abd4-4a138cf4eca6&pf_rd_r=GTDYC3VGT9ATM0T6KP50&psc=1&refRID=GTDYC3VGT9ATM0T6KP50

Agreed Plusgas every time + heat + patience.
Be prepared to apply heat and Plusgas daily for several days.

I'm applying Plusgas and hoping that it will eventually ease.

I've been applying Plusgas for 24 hours - no movement. Do I just keep going and be patient?

I am assuming it is only the top rim of the float bowl that rotates off?

correct, you still may need a bit of brute force and ignorants though.
maryalice

Thank you. I am wondering about removing the carburettor and float chamber assembly from the engine and putting it on the bench.

Just need to work out how to do that now!

ajcooper4 wrote:... Do I just keep going and be patient?

I refer the honourable gentleman to my previous statement.  Took me nearly a month to free up a Villiers flywheel.  I suppose a bit of gentle tapping might 'shock' the threads

two nuts hold the complete carburetor to the engine, one banjo bolt holds the float chamber to the main body.
Maryalice

maryalice wrote:two nuts hold the complete carburetor to the engine, one banjo bolt holds the float chamber to the main body.
Maryalice

Thanks for the advice. I spotted that but it's really good to have someone more experienced confirm it.

I noticed that the governor mechanism is also connected - in effect I suppose the throttle. Is that a fairly easy dismantle? Looks like some kind of split pin but it's not particularly accessible.

Its a steel shaft with a split pin at each end, remove one or the other and pull the shaft free, I doubt you will but dont adjust the clevis's at either end as it will mess the operation of the carburetor.

Maryalice

Progress I am happy to report!

The top of the float chamber is finally off - it was quite emotional though! I've learned a great deal which is half the fun. One day we will be running and my wife will be complaining about the noise!

Thanks to one and all for the continued advice and encouragement.

Excellent, from now on do it up hand tight only.

Maryalice

Well done - patience is a virtue!