villiers mk25 no spark at points info

Hi all i have got a villiers mk 25 stationary engine,which i use for a sawbench cutting logs. the engine never gave any problems for a long time,but now i can not a spark across points.i have check timing it is ok.any help would be welcomed.

You say you can't get spark across points. Really ? - or no spark at plug.
Clean points with a piece of carborundum paper.
Try an ohmmeter across LT and HT side of magneto coil - stick a piece of paper between points to isolate from earth. Should be low ohms ( 5 - 10) on LT side and several K ohms on HT side.
If open or short circuit you need to get new coil.
If neither maybe you have a condenser problem.
Also check contact breaker gap and spark plug gap.

hi paul,i am not too sure about the reading on my meter,all i get is a 000 reading on either side of coil.that is from lefthand side of coil to stator plate base,and right hand sidetowire connected to plate.set themeter on 200,and 2k ohms

Hi corribella (your real name?)

You seem to have it right but just in case:

HT (meter set to K ohms) should be measured between earth and the little button on top of the coil where the spark plug lead connects with a spring loaded plug.

LT (meter set to ohms) should be measured between earth and the wire that comes from the side of the coil to contact breaker.

Make sure you have both circuits isolated before measuring i.e disconnect plug lead (just in case plug is short circuit) and slip a piece of paper between points.

Mine reads about 1 ohm on LT and about 2K on HT side

I wouldn't be surprised at all if HT side is knackered. I now have three Villiers and not a decent coil between 'em.

You can find plenty of coils on the web. Search for Part No. M1361 or Villiers coil long.
Many will have a small wire loop rather than the little button (motorbike version) so you will need to be a bit nifty with a soldering iron.

Or you could try this one that I only found the other day.

http://villiersservices.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_18_52&products_id=28

They also do the condenser. Good luck

many thanks for the information,i do get readings similar to what you get,ithink i may have to replace the condensor,and take it from there.
corribella (reg)

You could try testing the condenser first as follows (with acknowledgements to MGAGuru.com)

1.) Remove the condenser from the engine (or at least disconnect the lead wire). Note the small metal connector located on the end of the condenser. This connector is the "hot" or power connection. The metal case of the condenser is the grounding point. Discharge the condenser by shorting the lead wire to the case.

2.) Switch the meter to the ohms position. Place the red lead into the "ohm" connector on the meter. Insert the black lead into the "com" or common connector on the meter. Set the resistance range to the highest available setting (if it is selectable). Connect the test leads together and zero the meter. If the meter won't zero replace the battery. (Yes, an ohm meter has a battery).

3.) Touch the red lead to the hot connector on the condenser. Place the black lead to the metal case on the condenser. The meter's needle should jump slightly to the right (toward 0-ohms), then should drop back to the left towards infinite resistance). Hold the leads in place for 15 to 20 seconds. This action places charge in the condenser. If the test shows any reading other than infinity, the condenser is leaking and needs to be replaced.

4.) Remove the leads and reverse the placement to the condenser. Move the red lead from the hot connector to the metal case, and move the black lead from the metal case to the hot connector. At the moment where both leads are touching the correct points, the meter should jump towards the right. The second time the needle may move twice as far, as this action discharges the condenser. Holding the leads in contact should again result in movement of the needle back toward infinite resistance.

5.) Movement of the meter's needle indicates the condenser is good. If no movement was indicated on the meter in any circumstance, the condenser is bad and must be replaced. Retest the condenser several times for a consistent reading.

The above is a good way to test capacitors with most moving coil meters.  My father had a meter with a switch that would reverse the polarity of the leads, it was great for testing capacitors, but you had to watch that switch on other things, it really could have done with having a spring return to the standard polarity!
Notice I said most meters, it depends a bit on the current and voltage the meter uses to make the resistance measurement, the higher the current or the lower the voltage the faster the capacitor charges and the less time you have to notice the effect.  As a rough rule of thumb the better quality meters use lower measuring currents and this test is easier to do.  Try the meter on a new or known "good" capacitor first to get an idea of what it should look like on that meter.
Digital meters are another ball game, as they usually have extremely high input impedance (ie amplified), they often use such low currents that the capacitor never gets charged to a steady state (ie it takes too long!), so it can be hard to get a measure of their leakage current, as it is masked by the charging current.  On the other hand some digital meters can give you a direct measure of the capacity in micro-farads, (provided there is no leakage). 
Trying a "good" cap on these is often quite enlightening too.

Have fun.  

hi all I replaced the condenser,and now I get a good spark.many thanks for all the information

Excellent news - time for some pictures maybe?

[quo
te="Woodsman"]Excellent news - time for some pictures maybe?[/quote] hi I have taken photos ,and short video,but I do not know how to send

I had same problem with 'Host an image'.
Try creating yourself an account on Photobucket, load the images there then click the image to get the share links top right. Click the Direct link to copy the url to clipboard then use the Insert an image your post. Hope this helps.