JAP 4/2 (Engine no. P15904UVX)

Those studs make me think that even though the basic magneto is correct the engine would have not had that type, it would have had a button unless it was fitted to a machine which had a remote stop.
Do you know the date of the engine and does the magneto have a spec plate on it which should also have a date on it.

Maryalice

I was informed that the 'P' in the engine number related it to 1940.
The information I have on the engine suggests it's fitted with a 576 mag, which it does.
Can the serial number 45343 be related to a year (could be a replacement?)
Excuse the grotty pic!

Alan

I cant tell with that Serial No, as I said the magneto is correct but there are many variations of one type amd unless it had a remote stop on a piece of machinery it should have buttons.

Maryalice

Should look like this....

https://vintagepedestriantractors.com/jap-5-wico-impulse-magneto/

Where do you find these websites

Have a look here.

https://ukengineforum.forumotion.com/t7727-wico-series-a-magneto

Should be able to fabricate something from a piece of brass shim.

Or, if you want the real thing there's a scrapper here that has the buttons, plus you get some other bits. (I'm tempted just for the HT thumb screw!)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274653049170

Once again thanks!
Never realised there were so many variants of these, I see from the link the design of the shorting tab, so simple! I was imagining it was something far more complicated?
Think I shall be making a stop button.

Alan

Onwards and upwards Alan
nice work so far getting closer to the big start up
my project has come to a standstill just oil is holding me up
RichieR

[quote="maryalice"]Where do you find these websites[/quote]

It's a thing called Google, you should try it sometimes Martin....

Appletop wrote: It's a thing called Google, you should try it sometimes Martin....

Better still use Startpage - uses Google engine but keeps you out of Googles 'search bubbles'

Mine has a "push to short" cap on each side, maybe yours originally had a remote stop switch wired to the stud(s)?

Thanks, I guess mine might have had something like that as well. I made up a brass shorting piece today and fitted it to the accessible side so at least I can stop it in a hurry!

Also I ground a slot with a Dremel both sides into the crack on the mag drive plate and silver soldered the joint so I have a bit more faith in it staying together!

Next part of the project was to tackle the zenith carb. Appears to be in good order with no appreciable wear in spindle bearings. However the float had quite a dent in its base so I decided to slice away the solder covering the hole in the base and apply compressed air to blow it out. Trouble is when I exposed the hole petrol came out!
Couldn't hear it by shaking. Anyway, blew the majority of the dent out and examined the case for a potential leak area.
Might have found a porous joint where lid and base are soldered together. Surprised it still had petrol in as it's not run for a very long time.
It's on the radiator now drying out ready for a pressure test.



Alan

Alan, that looks like a good repair on the drive plate. Is the silver solder better than brazing, or just a different approach to solve the same problem?

Neil.

Neil, not sure if it's better but I have silver solder! although I think a brazed joint could be stronger.

Alan

Thanks.

maryalice wrote:How do you silver solder cast iron, I use a small industrial hot plate to heat up the pieces or if the wife isnt looking they go in the oven, I braze mine but the castings have to be spotlessly clean.

Maryalice

Alan,
I asked the above earlier, how do you silver solder cast iron.

Maryalice

Maryalice I did reply! I said.

Maryalice, I've silver soldered cast by heating and holding at red heat (I've only ever done a few minutes) this removes carbon from the cast iron
Once cooled clean up and flux the joint to be, heat and silver solder in the normal manner.
There's probably data available that suggests temperature and time at that temperature, but that's what I've done and it's worked well.
My only problem with this piece is it's mass so not sure I could hear to red hot!

Alan

Ta

Always the way! You faff about making some and a pair turn up on ebay...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wico-A-magneto-stop-switches-Stationary-engine-vintage-tractor/114644101514?hash=item1ab152298a:g:IIoAAOSwORFfhZl3

It's all part of life's experiences!
Pressure tested the float today, took it up to 30 psi with float submerged and no bubbles at all, most strange, so removed the test pipe and soldered over the hole.


Tackled the petrol tap with it's sight glass and filter, it's a bit of an understatement to say it was a bit dirty! Needs a new gland for the on/off screw.
The gauze filter was really clogged, got a lot of it out in thinners and fine wire brush but it's now in a citric acid mix in the hope of clearing the rest.



When I got the engine throttle linkage was a piece of wire fitted into a hole drilled in the broken governor arm. I now have a new governor arm and linkage to take movement to the throttle spindle but although it's adjustable it seems too long?
Before I start cutting and modifying it I thought I'd ask if someone has a picture/drawing of what it should look like.


Alan

Hi Alan your project is turning out
great
RichieR

Thanks RichieR, it's coming along.
Can't believe it but the gauze in the fuel filter cleaned up a treat, it initially looked beyond salvaging as I was cutting the dirt from it!
Had a proper look at the throttle link and made up another threaded rod rather that potentially muck up the new part. After that I decided that the proper part could do with some more thread so died (dyed?) it with a bit more 4ba thread. Fitted it and believe it should work ok.
Finalised the magneto installation with a bit of grease in the drive plates and checked the timing.
Manual suggests points opening with piston about 1/4 inch before TDC and although there is a small amount of adjustment on the mag the best I could achieve was about 1/16 inch before TDC so it is slightly retarded on recommended setting.

Alan

Hi Alan,

The JAP Reference I have doesn't give any dimensions for the throttle linkage, obviously, but you seem to have it about right. Good luck

If you look under the General engine issues section at "WICO series A mag - Stop button" that should explain as I have been through simular recently.

The stop button could be easily made and fitted if you dont have one

Hope this helps
Nij

Thanks Nij, I did make one thanks - before I did the full research! It can be seen in a previous post.

Alan