Petter A1 Restoration

Very nice finish with the hand painting.... I'll proceed with my original plan. I also restore/conserve old tools and prefer hand painting with enamels - more durable.

Decent weather so a bit of progress today.

First coat of paint on the flywheel housing.




Cut the wood for the trolley.




Glued and held together with temporary screws while it sets, they will be replaced with coach screws once it's been sealed.




Axle parts jigged up ready for welding.




Cut some 80mm x 8mm strip for the engine mounts, grinder packed up after the first cut, luckily, being a "toolaholic" I have more than one so normal service was soon resumed




Early shift next week so hope to make more progress.

First coat of OSMO on the woodwork.




As I have been unable to find the correct air cleaner (at a sensible price) I found a pit bike filter the right size for a few pounds, nice garish metalflake finish but I have a cunning plan.




Made a start on the flywheel, this may take a while....




Tried to fit my nice new Hypalon HT lead, but even using Hellerine lubricant (if that doesn't work, nothing will) at 7mm dia it was too big for the hole in the magneto so I'll have to get some 5mm dia lead

[quote="Robotstar5"]


Tried to fit my nice new Hypalon HT lead, but even using Hellerine lubricant (if that doesn't work, nothing will) at 7mm dia it was too big for the hole in the magneto so I'll have to get some 5mm dia lead [/quote]

No matter what you do a 7mm lead will never fit a 5mm hole....

Metal bashing today

Engine mounting plates drilled and ready for paint.




Axles welded and wheel spacers made.

Bit of a milestone today, it's now officially a Petter (again)



Think it's been nearly 50 years since I last did waterslide transfers so it wasn't perfect.

Due to a company enforced week's holiday thanks to the Brexit that didn't happen I'm hoping to make decent progress if Mrs Robo doesn't find me too many jobs to do

Axles painted and bolted on




Wheels mounted




Found a cheap chamfering tool that just screeched instead of cutting




Someone on another forum provided a link to a better quality tool with better results

I see what you mean re chamfer tool it looks like it has been chewed by a dog or summat.
Regards,
Chiefy.

Much wire brushing later




Took even longer to paint it, then I thought, no one will ever see it!

When I got the engine, the method of stopping it was to ground a bit of wire sticking out of the mag cover.

So I tidied the wiring up




Made a push button mount out of a bit of plate




and mounted it discretely under the mag

Robotstar5 wrote:

Took even longer to paint it, then I thought, no one will ever see it!

but you will know it's been done right

Here it is enjoying the sun while I finish painting the flywheel...

If that runs as good as it looks.....

Only thing I'd do is move the throttle rod from the arm to carb to the nearest hole in the arm. Will run slower then...

Villiers wrote:If that runs as good as it looks.....

Only thing I'd do is move the throttle rod from the arm to carb to the nearest hole in the arm. Will run slower then...

So that's how it's done, once I'd got it running I was going to ask how to reduce the speed as it's currently a 1000rpm unit and I would like it to run slower, thanks.

Job well done.
Also looks very good.

Keith-PU8 wrote:Job well done.
Also looks very good.

Nearly done I've got to learn how to file a Gib key before I can run it.

[quote="Robotstar5"][quote="Villiers"]If that runs as good as it looks.....

Only thing I'd do is move the throttle rod from the arm to carb to the nearest hole in the arm. Will run slower then...[/quote]

So that's how it's done, once I'd got it running I was going to ask how to reduce the speed as it's currently a 1000rpm unit and I would like it to run slower, thanks.[/quote]

Close, it will run slower but the 1000rpm unit has different governor weights to the 750/1500 unit, it's a bit long winded and I haven't checked up on the hole locations for 30 odd years but get a manual from Ebay or the IF shop and that should explain in better detail than my addled brain.

Very nice restoration. A job you should be quite proud of.

Remember the metalflake pit bike filter?, looks a bit better now



and of course after looking for a correct Burgess filter for many months, one comes up for sensible money once I'd fitted the pit bike filter

The way the engine is mounted meant that oil from the sump drain would end up over the bracket and woodwork so a "wanted" post on another forum produced this...



Currently in primer and will be painted at the weekend.

Making it even starred in a youtube video!, starts at 30 seconds in

Flywheel painted and fitted now I know how to fit a Gibb key even found a ¾" BSF bolt to tidy up the end of the crankshaft.




Hoping to get fuel & oil in it tomorrow and give it a run.

That's it then, been there, done that and got the Tee shirt

Excellent job Stuart.  
Looks a treat - probably much better than when it left the factory.
Now the big question - what's next

Woodsman wrote:Excellent job Stuart.  
Looks a treat - probably much better than when it left the factory.
Now the big question - what's next :?:

Getting it running!

It ran for about 10 minutes then stopped, I suspect it's a fuel issue due to sediment from the tank.

Here's a clip of it running before it stopped...

A right bobby dazzler is that !

Can't fault that, looks good and runs well, not too fast and not to slow.

Villiers wrote:Can't fault that, looks good and runs well, not too fast and not to slow.

Took a bit of trial and error

First started at about 1400rpm and running quite smooth

Took your advice and moved the linkage to the closest hole, came down to 1000rpm but was shaking a lot

Adjusted the governor spring and got it to about 750rpm and as can be seen was running quite nice, and not much vibration.

Carb's in bits at the moment