Climax no.(not established) belt driven piston pump strip and refurbish blog.

Since buying this pump with no positive identifying marks I have only recently evidenced that it is truly a Climax.
I will leave the evidence to the end of the blog.

So I bought it in working condition but it has required priming manually.
First test after which dismantling began
https://techno.smugmug.com/Belt-driven-water-pump-refurb/i-zCPXHnb/A

The first thing I found was that the valves were a bit of a mess and probably why it would not self prime






I bought new valve rubbers from SEP meant for a lister domestic pump but they are just large enough in diameter.
I cobbled the rest together from stainless steel springs, washers and rubber grommets. The centre bolts I found are plain steel but they're cheap enough to replace as and when required if corrosion becomes an issue but more importantly the threaded portion is about the right length to screw them in fully so no adjustment is needed.
So after a bit of adaptation this was the result






To be continued.......

Not to put a spanner in your ideas but most pumps were badge engineered like most modern cars, you may find one or two companies made the pumps and cast the end users name into the main castings, if they are plain castings it wouldn't necessarily be attributed to to a particular supplier other than the original manufacturer, also numbers on castings don't mean much other than mould no's by the original casting manufacturer.

Maryalice

Next is the wet end piston.
It took me a while before I twigged that this is clearly not original especially as it appears to be nylon.




After a few days of research I found leather piston cups and decided to make use of the nylon part after modification.








16mm thin wall hole saw






A good soak


Fits like new


Continued ....

maryalice wrote:Not to put a spanner in your ideas but most pumps were badge engineered like most modern cars, you may find one or two companies made the pumps and cast the end users name into the main castings, if they are plain castings it wouldn't necessarily be attributed to to a particular supplier other than the original manufacturer, also numbers on castings don't mean much other than mould no's by the original casting manufacturer.

Maryalice  

Thank you that is yet another interesting possibility.

My theory was the possibility that this was sent out of the door as a B grade as with the original paint stripped off its clear that welding brazing and grinding had taken place on this side as if to hide some embarrassment over poor quality casting. However the pictures at the end of the refurb will show it is a Climax

General progress pictures of stripping and parts
























Continued ....

Today I managed to miss the rain and final fit the drive end on the trolley, fill it with oil and belt it up. Wet end still waiting for parts to complete.






Continued .....

Finished the driving force but still waiting for parts to actually pump water.

Hi nice work, it seems as though you are getting to the "climax" of the restoration!

Neil.

Thank you Neil. This is also the first time this A1 has run for over 30yrs. Bought for £20 as scrap and spent probably ten times that on restoration

Parts slow to arrive but the 3/8'BSW stud has and some acorn nuts




Full box of acorn nuts was £14.18 at Ebay check out.


Still waiting for form B brass washers


I painted the 10mm bolt heads and made them captive with stixall

Did you get a polishing kit for Xmas

I got the seller to polish them.

Some more progress finally. Both ends of the stuffing gland were ovalised so I drilled them out 13mm and fitted brass sleeves. I'm waiting for another sleeve to bring it back to a 7/16 hole.

The 7/8 BSP locknut arrived after weeks of waiting. This is a modification I've done to make the stuffing gland independently fixed and sealed with its own gasket. The wet end can then be removed without disturbing it.


The piston rod was bent and badly worn so I thought better to go the extra mile and make a new one.
The 11mm bar was a bit tight for the 7/16 Whitworth die.


So for the long thread I turned it down to 10.5mm








1.75" stroke


Final assembly and gland packing will be done when the extra sleeves are fitted.
https://techno.smugmug.com/Belt-driven-water-pump-refurb/i-J8zQgv2/A

Personally I think it looks far more attractive and interesting with brass.

Brazing of castings was done before fillers were created to mask bad casting cavities etc, not necessarily because of damage.

Maryalice

Yes this had evidence of brazing welding and filler, the whole toolkit.

Final parts delivered today
These are the pipe support ferrules I've used to rebuild the ovalised holes in the stuffing gland. I brought the 13mm drilled out holes down to 11mm by using two sizes of these one inside the other.






Re packed with 6mm graphite impregnated cord.



Here the video at the end demonstrates that the whole trolley set up has barely any vibration as can be seen on the water's surface without pumping.

Very tidy - nice job Andy.

Thank you Paul.

I'll now establish that this pump is a Climax and then establish that it has no catalogue number.

My block with no name only casting number 873


Same with Climax cast in and other features like rotation arrow.


Other side


This thread illustrates a climax 1
https://ukengineforum.forumotion.com/t9051-climax-no1-water-pump

Video of Climax 1


Here is a Climax 2


Here is a Climax 3


So the type I have might simply have been a Climax domestic?

I've now fitted a check valve to the foot of the intake pipe and a demountable stop end for priming.

Today I finalised the paint to match the engine

Looks good.

Excellent job.

Thank you both

Gross weight