Lister d gib key puller

Hi guys.
Has anyone a lister D gibkey puller that they don’t need anymore?
I live in Southern Ireland and am struggling to get my gib key off!!
I have looked around and think the best design is the complete circle with the 3 bolts that screw in to pull the gib key out.
I don’t really want to pay the £35 for a new one, to use it once, so does anyone have one they can post to me?
Thanks for your help.
Jon

Have you thought of making one?, a square of 10mm plate, some drilling, tapping a fair bit of filing....








I copied the commercially available one for the Lister D to use on my Petter A1

Stuart.

Robotstar5 wrote:
I copied the commercially available one for the Lister D to use on my Petter A1
Stuart.

I have the same for the A1 - what diameter is the D shaft?

Woodsman wrote:

Robotstar5 wrote:
I copied the commercially available one for the Lister D to use on my Petter A1
Stuart.

I have the same for the A1 - what diameter is the D shaft?

Pretty sure it's the same as The A1 as I tried a Lister D pulley on the A1 shaft a couple of weeks ago and there's not much in it, just different size keyways so I'd have to make/find a stepped key.

Stuart.

I have made a few different designs now, but I can’t find any sheet metal thick enough yet. I have tried using some 6mm plate I had but it just bent and didn’t move the pin at all.
I have tried wedges and other things, so want to get the proper puller before I wreck the head completely and it just breaks off. (Because then I am stuffed!)
The puller on stationary engine parts fits listers A, B and D so there can’t be to much difference in shaft size between them.
If I can’t find one in Ireland to borrow, I will have to look around and try finding 10mm plate instead.

Have looked at the Claas gib key extractor?, there's usually some for sale on Ebay, but I can't see any at the moment, maybe a decent Agri engineer would hire/lend one?.

Stuart.

I have seen them, but don’t feel they would work as well as the puller will as they only work from one side, whereas the puller works along the whole key top.
Saying that I have never seen one being used in real life (seen YouTube clips) but in my mind a puller seems better.

Jonboy wrote:I have seen them, but don’t feel they would work as well as the puller will as they only work from one side, whereas the puller works along the whole key top.
Saying that I have never seen one being used in real life (seen YouTube clips) but in my mind a puller seems better.

I made my puller for that reason, plus there were no Claas keys for sale at the time

Stuart.

Hi Jon,

Check the diameter of the shaft. If it suits, I'll happily put my puller in the post.

Thanks woodsman.
The shaft diameter is 1and half inches across the middle.
Are you in Gods own country of Ireland
If so, send me a pm and I will send you my address.
Thanks so much for the help.

Hi Jonboy,

Will check next time I'm in the shed - might be a day or two.

Jonboy wrote:
Are you in Gods own country of Ireland
If so, send me a pm and I will send you my address.
Thanks so much for the help.

Nope, I believe the Emerald Isle was a dummy run before God made Yorkshire
Had a look in the shed but couldn't find it. Will search around and PM you when it turns up.

PS Looks like you have a kinsman in seabar54.

No rush, I keep putting oil on it each day. Hopefully every little helps.

Well today I wemyout to play in the shed and managed to get the gib key out!! 3 cheers for me!!
After a lot of oil and time, I made up a plate like the picture above but it kept bending every time I put pressure on it due to being to thin a metal.
So I got a bearing puller that fits around the shaft completely (not the 3 leg sort) and used that to give a even pull all around my homemade puller.
Even though this now only pulled the gib pin and didn’t push back on the flywheel, things started to move. Suddenly it started and came out really easily once it was moving.
Now to get the fly wheel it’s self off. I put a piece of wood on the fly wheel and hit the wood, it has started to move, but it’s fairly stuck on. I don’t want to hit the flywheel directly with the hammer as I don’t want the wheel to crack.
So my next job now is to continue hitting the fly wheel off and I can continue with the strip down.

Question to add.... how much should a piston move when at top dead center. Should you be able to wobble it slightly or should it be solid and not move at all? I have the head off my lister and have just a slight wobble, but think that’s normal as the piston rings should take up that slack. Am I wrong??

Perseverance has won then.
To get the flywheel off, use a strip of fine emery cloth to make sure the shaft is nice and clean/smooth, put a piece of 2x4 wood through the crankcase door to chock the crankshaft so you can turn the flywheel on the shaft to get it moving.

Stuart.

The three Ps - Propane, Plus Gas and Patience.
Well done. Keep us posted with progress.

Woodsman wrote:The three Ps - Propane, Plus Gas and Patience.
Well done. Keep us posted with progress.

Proper penetrating fluid, I don't understand the number of folks who recommend/use WD40 for penetrating rust, it doesn't work.

I inherited these from my Dad, the 2 big cans are almost full




Stuart.

Robotstar5 wrote:Perseverance has won then.
To get the flywheel off, use a strip of fine emery cloth to make sure the shaft is nice and clean/smooth, put a piece of 2x4 wood through the crankcase door to chock the crankshaft so you can turn the flywheel on the shaft to get it moving.

Stuart.

Hope you dont mind will add to your quote, once you have got it to turn on the crank shaft, turn the flywheel anticlockwise with pulling action as well and you should find that it will turn
off the crank quite easily, just dont drop it on your toes,

Thanks guys for the encouragement to continue, any ideas on the wobble movement on a piston at TDC?