Petter PAZ1 Oil

Hi there!

Today i changed my oil in my Paz and replaced it with 10w40 semi synthectic diesel oil is this ok or shall i might aswell open the sump plug again?

Thanks
Adam

That's fine Adam, I use the cheapest oil on the shelf in my diesel van. The only thing is I change the oil and filter ever 6 thousand miles, not sure how you'd work that out unless you have an engine hour counter fitted.

Stu.

Thanks Stu!!!

Another question the Paz has alot of oil pipes outside and i was wondering is it worth it taking them off to see if they are clear of crud or just keep well clear of them?

Thanks
Adam

That Oil is Fine like Stu said change the oil every year, when the first rally is coming around change it then.
It just keeps everything clean and helps stop smoking.
Yes take them off and flush with carb cleaner
Chris

this is the learing forum
you dont get sort of advice on the other side
well us dorset boys dont
your better off talking to yourself
dont know why thay didnt seem to say much to us????????????

mike.

mike d wrote:this is the learing forum
you dont get sort of advice on the other side
well us dorset boys dont
your better off talking to yourself
dont know why thay didnt seem to say much to us????????????

mike.

Its cause they stick to there own , they always did

Yes Adam I'd remove the pipes and give em a soak in engine degeaser or parafin would do as your right in saying they do fill with crud (carbon deposits). Maybe a babies bottle brush to get inside would work depending on the size of the pipes. If it's bad you could think about running an engine flushing oil in it for about 20 minutes (you'd need to check the can first) the next time you change the oil, but don't drop the oil now just to do it as you'd just be wasting your money with putting such a good oil in this time.

Stu.

When i did an oil change on mine, i put SAE 30 in it, the way i looked at it was, what multi grades and types of oil were available when they were designed or built, only my opinion

This is the question i asked on some other forum (twice) and never got a reply

Multigrades were a replacement for SAE 30 as a mulitgrade offers more protection. Its so your engine is protected from cold starting up to hot motorway running, where as the old oils couldn't offer this. The old diesel engine oil had a detergent in it to help keep them clean from all the carbon build up, but now diesel fuel is a lot cleaner they don't have that worry so much about it, so you can now get a 20/50 oil for your diesel so it will also cover hot and cold running and turbo charged engines. Hope thats helped clear it up a little for you.

Stu.

I dunno why you just dont stick to this site adam, just looked at your same thread on other site you had one reply, here theres been 8 messeges, if we dont know the answer we will find it

And if we don't know we'll give you loads of bulls**t so it sounds good

Stu.

Here Here we get better buy the day
Chris Sipping my Kopparberg Pear Cider

hi CHRIS
dont drink it all
ile have a glass when i get back from stockbridge
if there is any left

mike.

You now what the freedge is like all ways full
Chris

I didn't notice this before so as I said to Ryan:It is better not to use a modern multigrade in an older design of engine. The additives in modern oils do not suit the older bearing alloys. For an engine which is not doing any work it probably does not matter but if you are thinking of working it then use a straight grade high detergent oil. Shell Rotella 30 was probably one of the best. I use Exol classic HD30 for the Gardners etc which I look after. I can let you have some as I buy it by the 205l drum.
Rod

Hi

I have a number of lister, petter, and Bernard air cooled diesels, i used to run them on 15w 40 multigrade diesel oil. However i have since changed to a straight SAE 30 oil. Apparently multigrade oils with detergents in them are unsuitable for older diesels that lack a proper oil filter. The trouble is that the detergents in the modern multigrade oils keep the dirt in suspension, normally in an engine with a filter this would not be a problem as the filter would then trap the dirt etc, but with an engine with out a proper filter (most listers and petters of the older type just have a strainer in the sump) the contaminated oil carries on being passed around the various galleries and oil ways, not what you really want! The non detergent oils keep every thing down in the sump in a sludge, preventing it from entering the galleries and protecting bearings etc. Hope this helps, i'm no expert on oil and would welcome any further comments. Cheers, John

You're generally Ok with the cheaper multigrade oils as they contain very little, if any, detergent.

TBH this is a bit of an old thread. We tend to keep off the subject of oil these days as it tends to spark too much debate. We all know what to look out for now, some of us still use straight oils (although some of them still contain detergents). Others (like me) just use stuff like Comma Motorway, it's about the cheapest multigrade on the market & contains little in the way of detergents.

But really, with most rally engines, it matters little, as they never see much in the way of real work or long running hours. We just want something reasonably thick to stop them smoking & rattling too much!

If you shop around you can get classic oils pretty cheap now anyway, so really it's up to the individual.

I have to agree with what's been said by both John and Nuts and at the end of the day we tend to let individuals just choose there own oil. As most of these engine don't run that much compaired to a working engine and most of us give an oil change every season we don't find many problems with what ever engine oil we use.

Stu.

I have to empty the piggy bank for the Kohler, it takes over 6.5 litres to fill the sump on that one!

nutgone wrote:I have to empty the piggy bank for the Kohler, it takes over 6.5 litres to fill the sump on that one!

You know shes worth it.

Stu.