Leak in lister D water jacket

Hi,
   Further work on Lister D, I have discovered a hole in water jacket, flywheel side, usual place where a crack can develop, in fact there’s a long sort of line running partly along, I’ve cleaned it up but no sign of any leak except in middle, where a rusty stain and dribble has appeared when I filled it up.
  I don’t have any brazing equipment, so what I’m thinking of doing, is drilling a hole into area of leak, threading it and inserting a bolt, with some sealer, file down and drill another hole slightly over first hole, and doing the same, then continue if need be
  Has anyone done this, and was it successful? I want to keep the crankcase to keep engine original, yes I could purchase another case, but this case is in very good order, and bore is only very lightly worn, and was running, prior to strip down just this leaky area to sort
Mark

Mark,
I have used this method many times over the years; both at work and on stationary engine water jackets. Done properly, it can be very successful. It is known as "stitch-welding". Also it is the basis of a commercial - and very expensive - commercial process called Metallock.
Good luck with it.
Eric

Cheers Eric,  that’s given me more confidence to do it
If crack is larger in length than first thought, from what I’ve just seen on that site you mentioned, they inserted locks perpendicular to crack, to pull crack togeather, is this required? Is there away making a bridge lock? I can understand if the casting is under pressure a locking bridge would be required, I’m sure this would not be required on lister!?
Cheers
Mark

Mark, No real need at all for bridge lock as the jacket, though it gets hot, is not subject to a great amount of internal pressure in normal running. The Metallock 'bridge locks' are special patent pieces of wedge-shaped steel with a double figure 8 X-section to pull the crack together and fitted into equivalent-shaped holes drilled with a double-8 jig to match. Then the wedge is hammered in with an air-hammer until tight, and ground off flat with the surface. Fit your overlapping screws with a Loctite compound, say "Threadloc", for best results.
Eric

Thanks Eric, I was thinking of using Hermitite or similar, thought that might improve seal.
I was wondering if I should drill through jacket, using a 10mm tapping drill,then use a taper tap, but not going completely through with tap, which would allow the plug to tighten up,and lock, as to threading completely but that means no resistance and plug would go straight through and would be able to turn? I’m more in favour of partly threading
As crack is on bottom of water jacket, on crankcase, would this be a weakness point if I had to stitch almost entire length, with flywheel housing below?
Mark

would only part tapping mean the bolt will bottom out and try to spread the casting you are trying to pull together,

Chris

Mark,
I think Chris is right, drill and tap right through into water-jacket space, taking care not to use too much pressure so that when the drill breaks through it doesn't go on and inadvertently drill the cylinder....! If you use Loctite and let each drilling/studding harden-off before proceeding to the next overlapping thread,, then you should have no problem. Patience will win in the end!
E

Hi Guys, 
A photo to show exactly what I’m trying to rectify, dribble indicated by rust, the gouge going across length of jacket is ok from what I can see no leaks, but my other crankcase has a continuous crack same place but total length left to right, and swing up on right hand side as can be seen in second photo,which will require more drilling n tapping.
  Yes I was just thinking that it might tend to spread casting! So drilling through and fully tapping is the correct procedure.
    Don’t think there’s any chance of drilling through cylinder, as this crack is on crankcase ,bottom of water jacket above flywheel  housing plenty of space behind, but we’ll pointed out!
  My only concern now, does this mean the flywheel housing is a weak point if there’s just stitching almost if not the total width of bottom water jacket? 
Is a M10 tap the one to use? Course or fine pitch. With high strength loctite?
Cheers
Mark

Mark,
M6 or 1/4 BSF should be OK, especially if you have high strength Loctite available.
By the way, this forum thread has the makings of a good technical article for Stationary Engine magazine when the job is completed.
E

Hi E
   Thanks for drill size , I did find some information regarding type of plug material, brass was mentioned, so it can be peened after, I suppose mild steel could be peened after if nessasary, I shall be going down the mild steel root me thinks!
yea I agree, could be a good article, as so many cases are just been thrown away, when infact a little time and effort could restore them to working condition.
  I will take photos as work progresses just in case!
Cheers
mark