First Lister d restoration

Hello guys.

So iv just got my first restoration project a lister d to start off in the world of stationary engines.

The first thing is if I put the s/n and spec on here would someone be able to tell me the year ? I believe it to be around 1946-1952.
secondly iv had it running and it has a very loud what I can only describe sounds a lot like a bad car wheel bearing so possibly the the main crank bearings ?, as I haven't owned a lister d or a stationary engine before I dont know if its normal or not but its louder then the exhaust note.

Cheers guys hopefully you can help me with this.

Ryan.

You are correct in your view, the crank ball bearings will be the source, take the side inspection cover off and check the dipper is still there or not short, if its missing it wont chuck the oil around to reach the bearing cartridge. It wont be the big end, I had one fail at the Great Dorset Steam Fair, there was a scream as the white metal failed because the dipper fell off, I cleaned the sump of white metal bits, replaced the oil and it ran for the last three days with no noise at all and no big end, Lister D's are renowned for running under very severe mechanical conditions.
Put the engine details up and I will date it.
Maryalice

Ok so the dipper seems fine and not lose plenty of oil in the sump so I guessing it's a pulley off and new bearings ?. I have a video of it running am I able to upload it on here so you can see ?.no 1/30204 spec 28dh.

Jan to june 1949, roughly May 1949, getting to the bearings is a major strip down, governor, valves/ pushrod, piston/conrod, flywheel and then you can pull the bearing casting out, you might as well take the head off to.


Maryalice

Thank you for ageing it for me i did try work it out but after many hours on the net I gave up but guessed it was around late 40s.
Ok so iv started stripping just taking carb, exhaust, tank and so on off and I will the head off next do i release the pushrods by undoing the nuts on the velves ?.
I have another question about the inlet so it still had water in it when I pick it up so iv drained it down and there was some silicone stuck on where the Inlet runs along in the water jacket so pulled it off and there's a dip in the cast don't seem to be a hole there as I filled it back up then looked inside the inlet with a touch. I'll upload a picture should it be something be concerned about I know cast iron sometimes as imperfections.

Ryan90w wrote:... I have a video of it running am I able to upload it on here so you can see ?.no 1/30204 spec 28dh.

You can upload images to servimg.com but not video - you would have to use a video hosting service.

If you look at the menu bar when in edit you will see a button to link to YouBend. I can't help you with that as I steer well clear of social media but, no doubt, others can.

Frosting is your likely reason, if you put water in the hopper can you see it dripping out of the inlet, if yes you will need a new head. removing the valves will free the pushrods.
Heads can be found on Ebay, which part of UK are you.

Maryalice

Didn't think of that but I guess cast iron can crack from frost ?.
I'm bridport in dorset so south west.
I'm not massively disappointed if I have to get a head so many of them around and cheap enough.
What is the best way to get the pulleys off ? its got a small pulley on it aswell do you call them a fast pulley ? I did think of using a bearing puller 6" to try get the small pulley off but not sure if it will break the puller before the pulley even moves.
Withworth spanners on order as well because I can only get a 13 on the bolts it will go but tight fit and all my imperial sockets and spanners don't fit.

Maryalice will give you chapter and verse but golden rule for gib keys and pullys is - don't be in a hurry.
Propane (or whatever torch you have) PlusGas and Patience.
Apply the first two every day for several days before attempting to remove stuck items.

See Andy's topic for more... info https://ukengineforum.forumotion.com/t10985-my-first-lister-d

He wont, there's enough right and wrong ways on the forum without my addition.

Ok so a update iv got small pulley off and the head off I took pictures as I went but I got carried away put the head down took the valve caps aside so I could remember what cap went on what valve but it started raining so packed up picked the head up and now I'm not sure what valve cap goes on what valve thinking they would be the same I checked them ones slightly taller then the other, is that ment to be like that ? Also one has a small hole in the centre pin hole size if someone could tell me if the hole is from wear and needs a new caps or normal and if one is ment to be taller then the other don't know if it helps one cap is flat top with a pin hole and the other has bevelled edge and is taller.

Cheers guys.

I've never seen one with a hole in and it doesn't matter which goes where as any discrepancies will be lost when you adjust the valves, early Lister D's were not fitted with them they came on later engines, if you want to replace it I should be able to find a spare one.
Maryalice.

I did think that it wouldn't matter as I'll adjust them once rebuilt, I'll go take a picture of the cover and put it on here so you can see the difference between them almost looks like someone has ground down the surface compared to the other one. Iv heated the gib key up 3 times and then put penetrating spray on then heated it once more thrn left it soaking, is it better to remove the gib key and pulley before taking the crank out the engine just thinking it would be more awkward with the whole thing out on the floor.

Its cracked aswell and looks like it's been found down by someone

You have to get the flywheel off as the bearings come out at either end of the housing and the crankshaft will need pulling through each bearing, it's going to be difficult because as you heat the flywheel the crank will heat and they have both got similar expansion rates, leave the crank in the housing and work on the key, once the key is out you can put a thick lump of timber in the crankcase and rotate the flywheel so that the other end of the crank bounces on the wood, eventually the flywheel will rotate on the shaft making it easier to remove it from the shaft, deburr the visible key way so that the flywheel doesn't get stuck when pulling off.
Maryalice

Thanks for the advice on the flywheel. Where are you in the UK? As you said you got a velve cap spare.
Ryan.

Bedfordshire, I will look in my shed on Wednesday, when I've found one I will request your address and post it.

Maryalice

Thank you much appreciated. I mite see if I can find a bit of metal to make a gib key removal tool out of before trying to beat it out.

Maryalice you was on the money dating my engine it was sold 17/05/1949 to a company in Blandford.

Hi guys so had another go at the flywheel gib key today with no luck the penetrating oil is coming out the back of the fly wheel now but ov tired alsorts but no luck with the key, so I guess the only way it will come out is with a drifter or gib key puller, is there anyone in dorset I can borrow one from I would give some money for using it or do anyone of you guys have another idea to get it out ?. Cheers guys.