BSA 420cc Model G

Hi, the drive coupling looks like a reynolds, it has another half the same with a flexible drive pad between driven with 6 steel drive pins.
Cheers David.

Thanks David I did find RENOLDS stamped on the rear of the coupling, quite a nice device, the drive pegs actually fit into tapered sockets.
Woodsman, what's AJH stand for?

Alan

Alanengine wrote:Thanks David I did find RENOLDS stamped on the rear of the coupling, quite a nice device, the drive pegs actually fit into tapered sockets.
Woodsman, what's AJH stand for?

Alan

I asked that a while ago - https://ukengineforum.forumotion.com/t10724-who-were-ajh

Must have missed it! A mystery.

Alan

Quite pleased with the top coated result on the BSA engine case using aerosol paint from Lidl as it is close ish to the original colour.
Then things took a backward step when I dropped it on the grass! Have to let it harden off a bit before I can rub it down.

Alan

Did you manage with just using the first book of swear words when you dropped it or was volume 2 needed.

Volume 2 used with volume 3 part written!

Alan

Bit more progress on the BSA, basically it just needs a petrol pipe. However before going for a fire up I have been turning it over with a 1500 watt drill in the hope I could see some oil pressure appear on the temporary pressure gauge, but no.
It uses a gear type oil pump driven off the camshaft and the end plate was slightly worn so it was refaced to achieve bottom limit on the 0.001 - 0.004 endfliat spec. Tried priming with oil into the pressure relief valve hoping it would fill the pump in reverse as it were.
Next stage it to use a large capacity pump to inject a lot of oil which hopefully will fill all the oilways, fingers crossed!

Alan

Now have oil pressure! I had filled the pump and galleries with oil upon assembly but I guess as it's been tipped about a bit since then it needed re priming, getting 20 psi with a drill crank.
Rigged up a temporary fuel supply, disconnected the governor linkage and employed a spring to hold throttle closed and used the slow running adjustment to set what I thought might be a good starting point. First pull and it burst into life.
No strange noises and oil pressure 30 psi, however I noticed a fuel drip from the carb, quite a steady flow!
Quick removal of the needle valve, it's a solex 'can't get apart types' but I gave the spindle a spin and a tap in the hope it would help it seat.
Didn't work, if anything it was worse.
So the BSA ran after many years of non use but I couldn't video it as it was all I could do to keep it running at all!
New valve required then we can have a proper run.

Alan

Good to see you've resolved the oil pressure issue, just goes to show the importance of testing prior to starting an engine. Certainly looking as though you will have another nice engine in your collection, well once you've dealt with the incontinence issue!

Neil.

Thanks Neil, shame the valve can't be dismantled as it probably only wants the seat grinding in!

Alan

Been a while as other life slowed progress! but new needle valve fitted (same as VW Beetle!) and now petrol tight so went for another attempt.
The choke on this engine is either 'on ' or 'off' with no ability for anything in between, so, full choke and it started first pull. Very rich, choke off and it wasn't happy but ran with 30psi oil pressure. Got it to warm up by playing with throttle and choke whereby it would sort of tickover at about 1000 rpm with the idle air screw wound fully in, in theory giving a rich mixture but not evident in the exhaust. I know all the carb jets and orifices were clear but perhaps not now.
Classed as a semi success as it is obviously not right in the fuel department, won't start at all without choke even when hot?
The project continues!
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/YEq9iHXldgo?feature=share

Alan

Obviously you're not completely satisfied with how the engine is performing. However from watching the video, I would say it certainly looks to be a successful restoration and to me it doesn't sound too bad either!

Neil

Most of the engines we restore and show were not designed to run off load, they need to work something to settle down.

Maryalice

Thanks for your comments, and I do agree about needing a load! One of the most difficult running conditions for an engine is a satisfactory and stable tickover but I am hoping/would like to improve on it's existing performance.
My 4/2 JAP has a wonderful stable tickover and will perform all day!
I know I shouldn't make comparisons.

Alan

I have several Lister D's and none run the same, its all part of the fun

Everything got in the way but I managed to plant the BSA onto my JAP generator base I made so it is now bolted to something solid!
Full choke and a little tickle of the carb and it starts first pull. Governor missing it's linkage rod and spring so idle screw was wound in to run as seen in the video generating 340 watts (1700 rpm). Manually using the throttle I applied more load with my light bank but found I caused the belt to slip with a pungent smell of rubber, didn't think it was that slack. This engine has plenty of punch!
However - there's always a however! I won't start at all hot without applying choke and as this uses a very crude method it is full choke or nothing, once running (very very rich) it can be removed and runs fine.
Trying now to straighten out the damaged throttle governor spring and make a new link before another (governed) run.


https://youtu.be/U6DUqFOXDrk

Gave up trying to straighten the spring, don't know what people do to springs! Anyway found one similar in my stock which I thought might do. Had to modify the tensioner arrangement to ensure the belt wouldn't slip.
Strange arrangement regarding governor setup - with the engine running at it's designed speed (2200rpm) the governor arm is moved on it's shaft then nipped up and fine adjustment set with the knurled nut.
Anyway video of it running driving via countershaft an alternator which was having it's load varied up to the max I could give it at which point it was generating 13.6v at 52amps.
Even removing the load completely the engine speed is maintained within a few revs - well pleased!

Alan
https://youtu.be/NxOdeeO4F-o

Nicely done, the governor is certainly dealing with the load changes without exhibiting either overshooting or dipping of the revs. I would call that a great success.

Neil.

Thanks Neil, governor springs always seem to suffer some sort of deformation, no hope of obtaining the correct replacement just lucky that I had one that seems very suitable!
(I save springs from everything!)

Alan