My new toy my jap 2a

When I removed the sump of my 2a if was about an inch thick of cr4p in the bottom. The sump in the pic just had a quick wipe of as I was after a replacement one (thanks Lewis) as this one has a corner missing.

Stu.

hi all hope your all well and that your projects are going well just want to say sorry for the delay on pictures with paint on as i have run in to a problem with my primer and it has really really wound me up but would like to say thank you to kev for being very understanding with my rants and tantrum over it all and for being supportive and reassuring it is not my fault and otherwise i would prob be spending the next week taking dents out of the cowling but the short story is i bought some brush on primer and its meant to be touch dry in 2-4 hours and ready to sand in 24 hours the tin was WRONG 3 days now and still not dry enough to sand so will be stripping it back to bare metal tomorrow and going with a tried and test spray primer so thank you again kev

sorry this is after my last post and was meant to be before during the whole cleaning process i had kev looking over my shoulder so i think i did it right and cleaned it well enough otherwise he would of had me take it apart again and again until it was right lol cause the only way to learn is by fixing and making mistakes but its much appreciated with the concern and soon it will be at its first rally with me lol thanks all.

Next time you buy a brush on primer, go for some stu called "Teamac" use their red oxide primer, it's very quick drying & is industrial/commercial grade stuff, so very good.

There are a few reasons why it won't dry, maybe there was some oil left on the surface (but I doubt that), I always clean off with brake & clutch cleaner to remove all oil residues. Or (more likely) it was an old tin which had been sitting in the shop for years. Paint tends to take a longer time to dry as it gets older, I've had it happen to me.

thanks mat that makes sense and i have learned something new today all ready cause i didnt know that about paints and primers so thank you i will check the tins in future for signs of age and ask at the the shop

Best to use trade supplier type places, rather than hardware shops if possible. They tend to have more traffic & keep less stock. It might mean waiting a day or two for something to come in, but at least then you know what you're getting is brand spanking new.

Raymond_Hopwood wrote:sorry this is after my last post and was meant to be before during the whole cleaning process i had kev looking over my shoulder so i think i did it right and cleaned it well enough otherwise he would of had me take it apart again and again until it was right lol cause the only way to learn is by fixing and making mistakes but its much appreciated with the concern and soon it will be at its first rally with me lol thanks all.

nutty matt
this engine was a good and gunk free engine before the wash out all galleries ,lube holes and bearings are as they should be ,she must of hardly ever done any thing or had a rebuild at some time as for a small high reving engine very very little play to none in the moving parts ,hardly a step in the bore too ,as for the 2 small holes in the "dipper trough" one is with the screw in and the other is clear of gunk, as there was no more than 2-4mm of engine deposite/film in the bottom
well im sure we can get rays paint off again today "poor sod " im pizzed off for him to ,
but as we all know , trial and error with products and ways to repaint engines, but that primmer is just so wrong as ray said above ,grey primmer turned green while tacking off, and has stopped at the tacking off point , not rays fault in any way at all " just bad mix of paint me thinks"
kev

We would have an easy life if everything went to plan. Ray just do it again mate and check to see what would have caused it, you might be lucky an identify the problem. So are you going to replace the primer or try it again?

Stu.

hi all yeah wire brushed every thing back to bare metal and went with a spray on primer called auto chem it aint the cheapest by far but it has always been reliable for me in the past even tho im new to stationary engines i have been tinkering with engines since i could hold a spanner lol so have done a lot of work on my own cars and have used auto chem before but if i had not tried the new primer i would never have know and Kev and i both think it was the primer cause the engine was bathed several times and as rust free as possible BUT i will be getting a new can to give it a try on my next engine cause Kev has used that brush on primer before and had know problems so aint righting it off just yet so hopefully have more pics soon aint gonna bother with the primer pics will just show with the colour and thank you all again and thank you Kev don't know what i would of done if you were not there to help and make me think before i acted lol

Yeah, I rate the brush on stuff as well. Like I said, Teamac brand red oxide is a commercial/industrial grade primer & is very good stuff, a lot of the trade use it, & agricultural engineering places as well. I pay less than £10 a tin for mine, the bloke in the shop said it was too cheap, he reckons it should be at least £15. Guess I should get in there quick & buy some before he puts it up!

Use up what you have first though Ray. That's the name of the game with these old engines. Use what you've got to the best of your ability, make do & mend (& all that). Blimey, I even make my own easing oil!

hi all finally had a break in the weather to get the some primer and some colour on the jap but before i forget i need to say a big thank you to my mentor for keeping me motivated even tho it has been hard but he has reassured me that not many restorations will be as difficult as this one has so thank you kev and also thank you kev for the help with the spraying i cant take credit for it all as its about 50/50 but finally here are some more pics





and finally ones with the colour couldnt take all the pics i wanted the wife was nagging but more will be soon

Looking good, glad to see Kev is cracking the whip and keeping you on the right track.

Now that's a different colour looking forward to seeing the finished item.

Stu.

thanks stu and yeah the colour is the old rover British racing green metallic just because i love the colour and hopefully the colour scheme will work out well

Funny, looks like blue on my screen. Just goes to show.

Great work there Ray, she's coming along nicely.

i like the colour myself also
its a deeper colour with the extra coats on it now
looking quite nice ,give him a load of home work to do while im away at sunny smallwood
so crack on ray "want to see it running this month matey
kev

cheers kev and thanks nutgone but cant take all the credit as kev has put as much time in on this engine as me to show me the way and i want to see it running this month to lol weather permitting lol

Raymond_Hopwood wrote:cheers kev and thanks nutgone but cant take all the credit as kev has put as much time in on this engine as me to show me the way and i want to see it running this month to lol weather permitting lol

is that the "weather " the wife and kids allow you time to , or the wet stuff rain and wind, that we never see here in sunny cheshire :stick lol: :stick lol: :stick lol: :stick lol:

we want pics we want pics ,i know you should have some more " as i need to borrow one for my wx11 listing as forgot to take the pics and video

see you laters
and get stuck into it mate
kev

The colour of the primer makes a difference to the shade, it looks like you used grey primer well in the factory they tend to use white which would make it look lighter.
Well looks as if your mentor has left you a bit of work to do Ray Kev your such a hard task master!!! :stick lol: :stick lol: :stick lol:

Stu.

stu
"whip crack away ,whip crack away"
somthing ive learned from somone :chin:
kev

the original British racing green colour had to be changed when colour tvs first started to show racing do to it looking blue on the tv useless history for you and here some more pics and posted them pics on your wx post kev

The colour is really nice. Is the Villiers your next project?

Ray looking good mate I thought Kev would have kept you right on this but he hasn't so I'll tell you. If it was mine I think I would have smoothed the tin ware a bit with body filler before painting, but it's your engine you do it how ever you want.

Good work,

Stu.

cheers stu and kev did try to convince me of smoothing it out but i like the aged affect makes me look younger lol thanks for all the coplaments guys hope to have some more pics soon with the rest of the colour finished and the villiers not quiet yet need a bit more practise painting lol

Ray if that's the way you want the engine to look good on you, you don't have to restore it for others pleasure just your own and if you happy then that's all that matters. I'm not always after the out of factory look, just some things look better left alone!!!

Stu.

that is so true stu
its how you want it to look that matters as i said its yours so do it how it makes you happy
just dont leave rust under the new paint ,our youd just be wasting your time and paint
"tin worms out not under"
kev