Lister D 169332

You trying to corner the market on D's

The trolley sounds as if it will be just the job but you may have to buy some cheap wheels if you can't find anymore cast wheels at a good price.

Stu.

I have 4 cast wheels, but I'm not entirely happy with the typical cast iron wheel that's available, and that's the reason I intend making some. MOst cast wheels are quite narrow, and so they tend to get bogged down on either gravel or grass.

I have steel ordered for 20, in two diameters, 140 and 400mm dia, and widths 50 and 75mm respectively. They will have T section for spokes, and 25mm (1") axle holes.
I'm not intending to refurbish enough Lister Ds to use 20 trolley wheels, but will sell off the surplus. Its as easy to make 20 as it is to make 4 !

Watch out for them when they come available. They'll be galvanized, so nice shiny silver, and rust free for decades.

Geoff

The wheels sound good Geoff, keep us posted when your sorted and have some for sale, a picture always helps to sell.

Stu.

Went to collect my 2nd Lister D this morning. Its not siezed, and has almost all parts on it. No frost damage and painted in primer all over. Stored outside, but looks OK.
Sitting right next to it in the garden was another one. No carb, and a few other bits missing, but for anothger 320, it seemed a good idea.

So in one month or so, gone from zero to three "D"s in the shed.

If it were a few degrees warmer than the -1 it is today, I'd be out there getting #1 going. Have only to fit the tank, the flywheel and crank it up!

Pix later.

Nice buy Geoff, I started with 5 D's in one go I bought a job lot

Stu.

Fitted the fuel tank and carb tonight and tuned the wee thing over.
I have yet to fit a water tap (thread needs tapping), so this was a dry run.
It fired a few spurts, but might need some adjustments yet. But the little smoke I did see was encouraging.

I'm raking about trying to find some 1" solid bar for an axle for the trolley. One axle is Ok, need a second.

After that its nearly finished (provided It goes!) Maybe this week???

Geoff

All sounds encouraging Geoff, it shouldn't take to much time to finish it. I think the biggest problem is getting that tap sorted so good luck with that.

Stu.

On another thread I've detailed the experiment to get a magneto with a burnt out coil going. Now done, and the trolley made for this Lister D, its a runner. A few minor bits and pieces to do, to tidy it up but it runs. (eg fuel leak, water leak at tap etc)

But it runs a bit rough I think; but I'm not any expert in these.
Here's some video of it running


What I wonder about, and would like any comments on is...

1. There's some emission from the rocker cover, quite a bit. That must surely be coming from the crankcase. Is that normal? Does it mean the rings worn out? (Compression seems OK) I didn't take the piston out, it seemed OK. There was no significant bore lip at the top of ring travel.

2. The choke button (rod?), thing that sticks up, is preing loaded and operates a valve on the air intake, seems to bounce a lot, and holding it steady by hand makes the engine run smoother. Any ideas?

3. There's quite a lot of vibration. Enough to throw water out the hopper, such that I made a small wooden lid for it. (loose fit, doesn't seal, just stops splash). I had not overfilled the hopper - about 3-4" down from top. I wonder about flywheel being out of true? Is that even likely?
Or could this be big end wear?

Other than those queries, it seems to run nicely. But what do the experts think?

I did have to play with the throttle control a bit. It runs best at about halfway, not the marked "Normal" position.

What I wonder about, and would like any comments on is...

1. There's some emission from the rocker cover, quite a bit. That must surely be coming from the crankcase. Is that normal? Does it mean the rings worn out? (Compression seems OK) I didn't take the piston out, it seemed OK. There was no significant bore lip at the top of ring travel.
That does indeed suggest crankcase compression caused by gasses passing the rings. Let it run for a bit, that may improve as things bed in. So long as it doesn't burn oil, I'd be tempted to live with it now your this far with the resto.
2. The choke button (rod?), thing that sticks up, is preing loaded and operates a valve on the air intake, seems to bounce a lot, and holding it steady by hand makes the engine run smoother. Any ideas?
Look at the spring carefully. These springs are very light wire and can break easily. They also suffer from corrosion. If you think it will stand it, stretch the spring slightly and try the engine again.
3. There's quite a lot of vibration. Enough to throw water out the hopper, such that I made a small wooden lid for it. (loose fit, doesn't seal, just stops splash). I had not overfilled the hopper - about 3-4" down from top. I wonder about flywheel being out of true? Is that even likely?
Or could this be big end wear?
Doubt it will be big end wear as you would have a knocking noise with it. Remember this is a crude agricultural engine, not a racing engine! The design dates back to the 20's and wasn't altered greatly over the years. Dynamic balancing wasn't carried out. You can alter the speed by the governor spring, you should find a speed that things will settle down at, probably a lot slower than rated speed. Don't worry these engines were available in a 1hp version and the rated speed there was 500rpm. I think you could go safely down to about 300rpm without too many lubrication worries although you might want to remove the splash tray if you intend to continually run the engine at that speed. If you cant get it to run slow, shorten the length of the vertical rod from the governor or take a spring off the governor weights. You can dynamically balance the engine using bits of lead flashing. Cut a small piece and stick it on the inside rim with blu-tack. Be careful when running the engine in case this falls off and is ejected. You can then move the piece around the rim until the engine runs steadier, then start adding bits until it runs steady. Now affix more permanently.
Other than those queries, it seems to run nicely. But what do the experts think?

I did have to play with the throttle control a bit. It runs best at about halfway, not the marked "Normal" position.
Don't worry about this, just find the best spot and remember it. You want to wind the throttle screw in towards stop until you hear a change of note as if the engine is struggling and going to stop, wind it back out just a few clicks until it settles and there is no black smoke.

She sounds pretty good to me. I think what you call the throttle control is actually the mixture regulating screw, but like has been said, just find your spot.

By holding the choke plunger in you will be making the engine's mixture rich & limiting the amount of air admitted through the carb. It might be a good idea to check the spring on the plunger (remove the 3 nuts underneath, drop the ring plate off & the plunger & spring should drop out) but I reckon it might be best left alone with the rest of the settings made to the mixture screw & the throttle governor spring tension (to try & slow it down a little).

Also, with the hopper, they're not supposed to be ever-so full, the actual full mark must be a good 3" below the top of the hopper (from memory & estimation).

Apart from that, I reckon she sounds like a good'un.

Oh yes, the crank case venting. It could well be normal. How much is a lot? Don't forget this is a single cylinder, also that's pretty much the only place where it can vent. It is designed to vent all crank case pressure up this way in an attempt to lubricate the valve gear by oil mist, but you are supposed to lift the cover every now & then & give the rockers a squirt from a can.

Unless there's a lot of fumes coming up there I doubt it's piston rings. But it's difficult to tell. One man's idea of a lot of something could well be another man's idea of a little.

Great to hear her running though, really pleased.