Rust remover/converter

I'm getting to the stage where I need to tackle the cowling and tank on my Villiers MK20, this picture gives you an idea of the condition of them:


I've seen various mentions of using citric acid, combined with wallpaper paste, but TBH it seems a right faff to save a few £££... it wasn't until googling this method that I found how many rust removing and converting products there are available. I'm now confused as to which is the best way forward. Remover or converter? Which brand? Some sound to good to be true (although they are well known brand names), saying they do not need to be washed off.

Any thoughts? Experiences?

Have a look at my previous posts on my JAP, casing/tank looked similar to yours!
Took it to my local plating company it was stripped clean and zinc plated all parts for £35.
Showed up all the rust pits and dents but at least it was sound and clean to work on. Primarily did it because there were area's of it I wasn't going to be able to get paint in properly.
Previous engine cases I have used wire brushes, citric acid etc and applied a rust killer for what was left.

Alan

A good wire brush, drill and a mask will sort that cowl out nicely.

Maryalice

maryalice wrote:A good wire brush, drill and a mask will sort that cowl out nicely.

Maryalice

True... but I'm weighing dust/mess/time against a (possibly) easier option.

I would say my method only needs a vacuum cleaner to collect dust where as yours involves acids, paint removers and water, I wonder which is the messier oth the methods

Maryalice

Hi mattblack, I was looking at my options when I started to restore the Scott generating set. I did mention I had considered some form of blasting to strip the various parts, large and small, to prepare them for painting. However due to lockdown, I was restricted in what I could do, so I took the only option left to me and have cleaned all the parts up by hand. All I have used is the traditional wire wheel and drill as suggested by maryalice. For what I want to achieve I am quite happy with the results. However I don't think you could do better than take the approach that alanengine has used, if you are after a finer finish.

Neil.







A couple of examples of a before and after, using just a drill and wire wheel and a hand brush. Had it not been for lockdown, I may well have gone to an outside company but I'm now pleased with the results I have achieved.

Just had a thought, buy yourself a nail gun, thats assuming you have a compressor, I find that they get into nooks and crannies.

Maryalice

I hope you mean needle gun, I think a nail gun might make a few holes! I have used needle guns to clean railway vehicle underframes but I wouldn't like to use them on anything lighter than that, unless you can get smaller versions than I have used.

Neil.

Yes I did mean needle gun    the ones I've seen on preserved railways need a crane to support them  I've got two, one will keep my compressor really busy as its a large hand held gun, I've also got a Lidl special for light work and I've attacked tin work with no problem.

Maryalice

I used a needle gun borrowed from work while restoring my Morris, found it quite effective but didn't realise that 'tin grade' versions were available - have to keep my eyes peeled while in Lidl!

Alan

Its not for tin work directiy but is half the size of my large one which would wreck sheet metal.

Maryalice

I have a spot shot blaster, it uses rubber container type ends to collect the used shot, it goes into a bag.
Very effective but too localised for bigger stuff although without using it as a spot blaster I have used it freehand as it were, used down the garden, boiler suit on with rubber bands around neck and wrists, goggles and hat - not what you would want to expose the public to!
Very effective but creates one hell of a mess!

Alan

maryalice wrote:I would say my method only needs a vacuum cleaner to collect dust where as yours involves acids, paint removers and water, I wonder which is the messier oth the methods

Maryalice

No rinsing ect with the one I've been looking at?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jenolite-Rust-Remover-Treatment-500g/dp/B000TAR3H4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2GH2HT6KFKL66&dchild=1&keywords=rust+remover&qid=1614587833&sprefix=rust%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A1XEZUPB31ZI7F&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWThDMjNHQ0FSVlU4JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDkxNDQxOENRMVdESlNEUDJPJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzNjExODkzMVJCVEhDOTgzTTNVJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Used jenolite for years on aircraft restoration, good stuff, its a Gel and we found washing off was necessary, interesting also that Amazon seller says good to paint after 30 mins yet Jenolite's own site for the same product requires an hour. Still a messy operation.

Maryalice